Zed.
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Burnt out - rebuild
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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Zed.
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,842
- Location
- Deepest Bandit country (Wales)
standard LR engine
Rich.
It’s a British Leyland gold seal
Opps.
J
I've 3 200tdi"s and they're all slightly gold - except whre they're rusty
Rich.
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- East Midlands
When I was little I used to think the natural colour of engines was black, and that they were black all the way through.
Then I grew up and found it was true.
Zed.
Well-Known Member
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- 1,842
- Location
- Deepest Bandit country (Wales)
Well playing with the engine this morning. Thought I would start by replacing the glow plug as I have a new set on the shelf and disaster struck! First three came out no problem. Nice and easy. And the last one has sheared off!
I assume my only option now is to remove the head and drill it out? Or is there any other proven methods to rectify this?
On this note does anyone know what size the threads are and I will get a tap ordered for once I have drilled it out?
I assume my only option now is to remove the head and drill it out? Or is there any other proven methods to rectify this?
On this note does anyone know what size the threads are and I will get a tap ordered for once I have drilled it out?
Hicap phill
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Have you got an 8mm nut(13mmspanner size) to try on the old glow plug thread?
) to try on the old glow plug thread?I do. Will try that when I am home. Currently at the barn stripping the sump down to do the t-seals.Have you got an 8mm nut(13mmspanner size
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Hmm. Maybe under a hundred thousand, but over 70,000.
It might be about halfway through its useful life and could probably go back in for about the same again before the copper starts showing.
It might be about halfway through its useful life and could probably go back in for about the same again before the copper starts showing.
Based on that’s does that mean the one I am taking out which has 375k on it is going to Be in very poor shape as I have not replaced them on that one!
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is it still on its original bearing shells?
If so, pop a bearing cap off and take a picture for us. It'll be interesting. Some Land Rover engines seem to be able to soldier on for hundreds of thousands of miles with little apparent wear, whereas some look like they need a rebuild after a mere 50,000, so you never can tell.
It is still on its originals as far as I am aware, certainly the last 275k have bene on what ever was on it when it was fitted. this is the engine that was in the fire so my plan is to rebuild it slow time but it was in perfect running order before the fire and had done 375k miles with no issues. When I do come to rebuild it I am sure it will have its own thread. I need to work out how far to take it whether to do the full thing with pistons and all or just do a quick bottom end on it as it had a top end a couple of years ago when the timing belt snapped (10k before its service interval and just as I was getting the parts order together to replace it!).
Well I have completed the heater box rebuild, you were all correct that s is very straight forward and simple once it is apart. Everything was painted
The heater matrix was repacked with neoprene tape and the vet flaps were resealed with neoprene tape as well.
Lots of rivets later and it is back together and for good measure I have seam sealed the whole thing to try and get as much warmth as possible out of it. I know this will make future disassembly more challenging but the last time I did any work on it was 10 years ago so I sure it will be fine for a good while yet.
The heater matrix was repacked with neoprene tape and the vet flaps were resealed with neoprene tape as well.
Lots of rivets later and it is back together and for good measure I have seam sealed the whole thing to try and get as much warmth as possible out of it. I know this will make future disassembly more challenging but the last time I did any work on it was 10 years ago so I sure it will be fine for a good while yet.
Other than creating a lot more work for myself today by shearing a glow plug that now will need the head taking off I did successfully replace the t-seals. I had now issues with it and they are fairly straight forward to do so I will not details the process and rather just upload the pictures of the sump and oil strainer removal, ladder frame removal and the crank journal (already posted so people can suggest what mileage they think this engine may be as it is unknown to me. the only other thing i will say is the parts kit for the t-seals and rear crank seal I got from Steve parker included a photocopy of the manual for how to do both jobs which I was thoroughly impressed with! The rear crank seal will have to wait however, as to do that I need to drop it down off the engine stand and now I need to take the head off I will do that while it is still mounted.
In true Haynes fashion refitting is the revers or removal and here it is all back together and complete
In true Haynes fashion refitting is the revers or removal and here it is all back together and complete
Is it definitly an m8? I removed the head early this morning but forgot to bring the glow plugs home from the farm. I am hoping to be able to drill it out later this evening just looking for what size drill to go up to.Have you got an 8mm nut(13mmspanner size
Removed the head this morning to remove the broken glow plug.
I am trying to work out of the head has been off before as there is what looks like copper grease on several of the bolts but not sure if it is rusty coolant:
All of the cam followers (not the rounds the brass sliders) look in good condition and nothing looks immediately untoward. Couple the cylinder look sootier than the others:
But it is off and home so I can work on it I. The garage with all my tools rather than in the barn. Is there anything else that is worth doing with the head while it is off? I am going to check the valves for sealing and if not re-lap them. But other than that am not planning on doing any work to it?
I am trying to work out of the head has been off before as there is what looks like copper grease on several of the bolts but not sure if it is rusty coolant:
All of the cam followers (not the rounds the brass sliders) look in good condition and nothing looks immediately untoward. Couple the cylinder look sootier than the others:
But it is off and home so I can work on it I. The garage with all my tools rather than in the barn. Is there anything else that is worth doing with the head while it is off? I am going to check the valves for sealing and if not re-lap them. But other than that am not planning on doing any work to it?
I also managed to get the cast disco exhaust down pipe off. Thank fully one of the studs came out with the nut as they all need to be removed and replaced with bolts as there is not space to slide the conversion down pipe off a stud before it hits the footwell. One of the nuts really did not Want to come off and in removing a nicked the stud. What thread are these? The nuts were very Definitly 9/16 (not 14mm) which surprised me as I was expecting metric.
Attachments
Well after a lot of swearing and the seal slipping off I have managed to get it mounted to the glass. I am sure it would have been a lot easier if I wasn’t working on my own but I got there in the end. Having fitted to the glass everything else has become much clearer in its Placemnet but I have another issue. The seal seems to be too large a circle!
Not the clearest of pic but it shows two places where there is too much slack in the seal and it will not stay fitted to the screen. Any suggestions for how to keep it in place for fitting. I am confident that once fitted it will be snug I. The frame and against the glass. It is just getting to stay put while being fitted.
Not the clearest of pic but it shows two places where there is too much slack in the seal and it will not stay fitted to the screen. Any suggestions for how to keep it in place for fitting. I am confident that once fitted it will be snug I. The frame and against the glass. It is just getting to stay put while being fitted.
