Paxmanmerv
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Brakes issue
- Thread starter Singr07
- Start date
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tottot
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Well as it is the servo you want the good news is that the type 80 is a lot cheaper than the one for a Defender 300tdi.
Yours is a Land Rover Ninety and what you should quote for spare parts, except for the engine of course.
RTC3387 seal repair kit.
Yours is a Land Rover Ninety and what you should quote for spare parts, except for the engine of course.
RTC3387 seal repair kit.
Singr07
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Hi could you please send a picture and possibly part number of 80’s servo?
Singr07
Active Member
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- 113
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Singr07
Active Member
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- 113
- Location
- Birmingham
Hi thatnks for providing with that website link, it is very useful. But I can’t find that seal on its own, I have tried Paddocs and Craddock’s and local Land Rover parts shop. I think is the part of the repair seal kit. I gave up and thinking to refit the existing seal with smear of grease on it.
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I hope you don't mean the seals inside the master cylinder??
New seals in an old master is questionable, let alone an old seal + grease.
tottot
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Find on rstlandrovers site "brake servo NRC4772" Has a pic.
tottot
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Just DON'T.
RTC3387 for repair kit.Singr07
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The new master cylinder doesn’t have the grove like old one. So I guess an o ring will seal it.
Singr07
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Right now my Defender is on jack stands (12 tonne a pair) front and rear.
(while Defender is on the jack stands) after the brakes bleeding, is it good idea to text the brakes with or without wheels?
Please advice
(while Defender is on the jack stands) after the brakes bleeding, is it good idea to text the brakes with or without wheels?
Please advice
tottot
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You can check the pedal does not go to the floor and do the servo test but that's about it.
Singr07
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That’s great news, thanks for being so supportive 
tottot
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As to how well they work it is time for a careful test drive. Good luck.
Singr07
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Hi sorry for keep asking. I have bleeded the brakes twice and there were no air bubbles. Breake works but bitting point is low. Is that normal after fitting new Master cylinder?
tottot
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If your rear drums are adjusted correctly and pedal still low it is likely the master's rod needs adjustment to bring pedal higher. Be aware there has to be a tad of free play or brakes can lock on. YOU tube is your friend.
Singr07
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Hi it has the brake discs all around and there was no air coming out of the brake fluid nipples at rear. I will try to find YouTube videos. Is it worth reverse bleeding the brake oil? Thanks
Last edited:
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Did the vehicle originally have drum brakes at the rear and was converted to discs? If so you need to check the master cylinder is the correct one for discs. Someone more familiar with your model might know if the MC is different for drums / discs. I would have thought there would be too much pedal travel for disc callipers using a drum type MC as the volume of fluid needed to push the calliper pistons would be greater than for drum brake cylinders. Just my thoughts as I am not familiar with your model.
Singr07
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Hi I think it had the brake disc conversion by previous owner. Master cylinder is old type with only 2 brake pipes connection. Size and shape of the Master cylinder's looks the same and it fitted without any problem. But I don't know if MC is for Brake drums or for rear discs. I was about to adjust the push rod inside the Brake booster going towards the Master cylinder. Would that be the right way moving forward?
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That's what I would do first.
If the MC's are different for the disc v drums (and I don't know if they are, my knowledge of your model is limited) the difference would be the diameter of the piston inside the MC. Externally I would expect them to be the same.
Singr07
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Hi I have just took the MC out and measured the inside seat depth where the push rod hits. It’s exactly the same as the old MC. I have refitted the MC and bleed the brakes. Brakes are still soft and brakes locks about 2 inches away from foot rest. Not sure what to do.
