Brake pipes.

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Bobsticle

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat
Posts
27,632
Location
Manchester
After another fiddle today It looks like the next job will be brake pipes. Theyr a right state.

Any recommendations :confused:

I want ready made pipes as I cant be arsed messin with em. No idea what size the fittings are, what should I be looking out for?

The master has two pipes from it, if that makes any difference. :confused:
 
Bobsticle said:
The master has two pipes from it, if that makes any difference. :confused:
Click to expand...

Do you mean 2 plus the supply from resevoir...or does it have resevoir built in...heres a pic of the 58 S2 I'm restoring...
IMG_20201214_144758.jpg
 
First you have to work out whether its metric or imperial, they do not match but they feel OK ish then fail if you get it wrong. This is not whether it should be metric or imperial, that was years ago, this is about what it is now.. The flares are different and again do not swap so you have to get this right. Use cunifer not copper, its stronger and lasts longer. You can buy premade but in my experience on an old vehicle these only work if the route is as per factory, if its changed you will end up haveing to re make the end anyway. I found it quicker and cheaper to buy a coil of pipe, a box of (in my case) imperial nipples and an in-situe flare tool.
 
rob1miles said:
First you have to work out whether its metric or imperial, they do not match but they feel OK ish then fail if you get it wrong. This is not whether it should be metric or imperial, that was years ago, this is about what it is now.. The flares are different and again do not swap so you have to get this right. Use cunifer not copper, its stronger and lasts longer. You can buy premade but in my experience on an old vehicle these only work if the route is as per factory, if its changed you will end up haveing to re make the end anyway. I found it quicker and cheaper to buy a coil of pipe, a box of (in my case) imperial nipples and an in-situe flare tool.
Click to expand...

Agree we are buying a pipe straightner tool for this job as we have all the other...as for changes see pic resevoires are Spanish...
IMG_20201023_120018.jpg
 
Mine has a servo and a built in reservoir. The square split type.

No idea what size the fittings are and having never done a pipe change before, no idea how to find out :confused:
 
Bobsticle said:
Mine has a servo and a built in reservoir. The square split type.

No idea what size the fittings are and having never done a pipe change before, no idea how to find out :confused:
Click to expand...

What year is it?...doubt youll get an off the shelf kit to fit by the sounds of it...I'd buy a roll of pipe and flare kit and re-use fittings...if youve got a piller drill stick a wirebrush in it and clean them up make sure you put on pipes right way round on pipe and copy flair from old pipe...once youve done one rest is easy...
 
99.99 percent the fittings will be 3/8 thread, but as you never know who has been in there before!
The fitting are cheap so just buy a packet of each (3/8 imperial and 10mm metric) note some are different lengths and some have longer noses, I mostly reuse the old fitting again especially if they are a bit weird.
 
As above have recommended buy a coil of cunifer as copper work hardens with vibration. I replaced all of mine as one old copper pipe sheared when slightly bent and it frightened me that if it happened when I needed the brakes it would be game over. Not that expensive to do as I reused the old fittings a just bought a coil of pipe and flaring tool similar to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pi...197795?hash=item2a28352463:g:kGwAAOxy38tTlh0v Unlikely that a ready made set would fit exactly so although it may take slightly longer to do the major cost would be the flaring tool which you could use on your next Landy.
 
Agreed it should be mostly imperial / UNF and you may be able to reuse the nipples. Problem is there seems to have been a period when a lot the parts sold were metric, now its seems to be the other way, if you order a wheel cylinder its more likely to be imperial but its still a bit hit and miss despite the parts numbers. I would go imperial and swap any wheel cylinders that are metric (if you have any) and get it all one system. The cunifer is a bit harder so it needs a decent flare tool, the really cheap opens can't do it. Imperial/SAE/UNF are double flare, metric/DIN are bubble, they don't mix. Yours should be like the LH one in the pic in the link. Look down in the cylinder at the tubing seat; if its a male cone its imperial, if its a female cone its metric.
http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/brake-line-flares-metric-sae-inverted-bubble/
 
I think some countries have outlawed copper brake pipe due to the work hardening issue, Kunifer is decent stuff.
 
I'd suggest buying a selection of different sizes from ebay, and keep a note (label?) one of each size, so you *know*! You can then use them as checks for all things you need to screw into. A couple of blanking caps are useful both as reference 'sockets', as well as capping off the lines to avoid dirt getting into the lines if you've not yet got everything in place. They aren't expensive.
I replaced my whole system and tried to ensure I used imperial (as original as possible) but there were a few places I needed to switch. I can't recall where now, unfortunately. It is a bit of a minefield.
 
Looks like a job for the summer. Mines got mixed axles, series 2 and 3 bits all over it., 11 inch brakes on an 88. Could be a big job :eek:
 
Strangely I did get new slave and pipes for the clutch a while back and just ordered one off the net. It fitted luckily.

All mi cylinders are recent ones.

Just looked at braided flexis. :eek::eek::eek:
 
Bobsticle said:
Strangely I did get new slave and pipes for the clutch a while back and just ordered one off the net. It fitted luckily.

All mi cylinders are recent ones.

Just looked at braided flexis. :eek::eek::eek:
Click to expand...


I like braided flexis, but you cant clamp them, plus the cheapies last well, so not sure the extra cost is worth it.
 
the front soft brass splitter on mine was awkward as a wrong fitting will go partially in and engage the thread but then tightens up before sealing,i would recommend removing the splitter to check the compatabillity 'on the bench',i bought a selection of metric/imperial fittings inc a new splitter as it may cost an extra fiver but the time and energy/swearing makes the extra cost worthwhile
atb
 
I got so frustrated wasting time trying to work out which nipple fitted what that I started again and re piped the whole thing. It was a lot less work that trying to make the existing pipes seal.
 
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