- Posts
- 3,878
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
These don't leak
P38A Gearbox cooler pipes (manual)
- Thread starter Grrrrrr
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Thanks but I don't like the idea of copper for two reasons: firstly work hardening and second it is an extremely corrosive environment under the car. Copper will rust the steel pipe as well.
Last edited:
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
It’s an old one so corrupt a bit
Is this auto though so different?
2.5 Diesel oil cooler pipes - an economical way!
I've read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn't fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took...www.landyzone.co.uk
I have what I think are gearbox cooler pipes in my scraps trailer, although I think they are off a v8.
The first difference is that they're 10 mm. They are flared to 12 mm where the ferrule is pressed around the pipe. The pipe itself is not serrated at the end although it does have a 10 mm ring halfway through where the ferrule fits. The ferrule itself has a series of ridges that holds the rubber hose in place. The rubber can twist round on the steel pipe but cannot move forwards or backwards along it. I tried gouging the rubber out but the only way to get it off was to cut along it with a hacksaw. OK in a vice with a stub of pipe but I wouldn't want to try it on the car.
Attachments
- Posts
- 3,878
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Agreed, it not car ideal, but was just an example of how to join 15mm to 1/2" !! Plenty of other options available.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I think the 5/8" or 16mm pipe might be the bigger issue.
Having seen the existing setup on the v8 pipe I am a little concerned whether a couple of Jubilee clips on a straight pipe will be enough to stop it leaking, especially given the existing setup is leaking and it looks pretty substantial (even if it is old and worn).
They say think twice before making a cut. I think I must be well past thrice twice by now and still I think I ought to think a bit longer.
I will give my 2p worth.
Find a compression fitting to go on the hard line, mate it to a JIC fitting then you just need to measure the hose length and have them made at any/most hydraulic hose making place. I.E Tractor or plant company.
Cut them of in situ with a Dremel if you don't want to disturb the ends.
J
Find a compression fitting to go on the hard line, mate it to a JIC fitting then you just need to measure the hose length and have them made at any/most hydraulic hose making place. I.E Tractor or plant company.
Cut them of in situ with a Dremel if you don't want to disturb the ends.
J
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,886
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
It used to be possible to buy solder adaptors for joining imperial to metric copper pipe, I even have 15 to 14mm adaptors in stock.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,886
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
It's possible to flare the ends of the pipe with something like a lathe centre.
- Posts
- 19,297
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Goodridge or Parker's do some fittings that would fit but they're £130 each - as much as the replacement part and not half as solid. The existing fittings are heavy duty.
