Disco 1 Boost pin

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Mudron

Mudron

Active Member
Posts
236
Location
Salisbury
So today, after a lot of research, I have bought an OEM bosch boost pin from work. But this one is different in that it was meant for the early vw tdi engines pre edc, and some rovers. It is a direct replacment for the old pin, but has a better profile to it, much like the land rover one but better.

As its the an oem one it is exactly to spec and wont wear out or jam in the lda.

I am fitting it tommorow morning. If it makes a decent difference i will report back.
 

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Thats a standard pin by the looks of it. A boost pin doesnt look like this. It has a big groove cut out not tapered. Look on ebay for boost pins and see for yourself or youl be back on here saying theres no difference.
 
It is a standard pin. But for a different engine with a different fuel curve. It's listed to fit the 1.9td engine found in the older vw transporters. I was just curious as to how it would drive. As it turns out, very well. Its not leaps and bounds better, but it does have more urgency from idle to full fuel delivery.

However, its not enough to justify the cost of the pin compared to rotating the 300 tdi pin. So i have done this instead and returned the other pin to work.

Was worth a try though!
 
Ok thanks. I didn't think it would be but I believe if you don't ask questions you don't get answers. Appreciate you help.
 
Spoke at length to my spannerman about boost pins. My 300 has done nearly 150k miles and is running well.
His opinion is don't bother, if it's not broke don't fix it; different pin - if it's not broke fix it 'till it is!
Lots of miles and increase in fuel curve might screw things up dramatically rather than make it go faster.
 
Cheers guys thanks for the advice. Think I'm as well just blanking off the erg valve. In your experience does this make much of a difference ie more responsive at low revs ect.
 
I didn't notice any real difference when I removed the egr on my EDC auto but mine occasionally stuck open which left me with no power and lots of black smoke so I removed it. If yours is working properly you may not notice a difference but it will eventually cause you problems so get in there first and blank/remove it.
 
RichardH said:
Soak the bolts in WD40 or similar as many times as you can before you do it. Drilling out a snapped stud and re-tapping is a real pain. Ask me how i know :p
Click to expand...

Oh, :oops:I know how you know, unfortunately, :rolleyes:I had a similar experience. PITA and then some - :eek:ended up taking the manifold off to hold the thing properly:(.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Oh, :oops:I know how you know, unfortunately, :rolleyes:I had a similar experience. PITA and then some - :eek:ended up taking the manifold off to hold the thing properly:(.
Click to expand...
Me too !! manifold on the bench. Also snapped an alternator bolt, noticed the p-gasket was leaking and found out that the manifold gasket was in 2 bits which finally fixed the oil leak down that side of the engine. 10 minute job turned into 2 days. how I laughed :cool:
 
Just like to thank you all again for the advise. I've managed to blank off the erg valve. Tho couldn't get the bolts out of the manifold:mad:. Blanked it off with the valve still attached by removing the return pipe fitting the blanking plate and fitting a new silicon hose to the inter cooler ect. Next project roof bar lights and hopefully lift kit so will no doubt be back to pick your brains in the near future. Thanks again ;)
 
Today I turned the standard boost pin around so the steeper grade is operating the fuel limiter. I also adjusted the stop screw 1.5 turns in. Wow what a difference, boost comes in earlier and holds for longer. Its no longer sluggish, doesnt smoke and mpg is slightly better. I did not touch the max fuel setting because I am due an intercooler upgrade, injector and turbo refurb soon so no need to add extra stress yet.
 
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