Bleeding radiator/cooling systems

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dave66

New Member
Posts
41
Location
Ireland
Hi,

Had a bit of a problem with my 2002 Freelander 1 TD4 cooling system at the weekend. I was travelling on motorway towing a horse box, going up a hill noticed temp gauge rising and loss of power. Pulled over and allowed things to cool down. Topped up expansion tank, well I say topped up, it took 2-3 liters of water. Limped home, stopping every so often to top up water.

Went to local friendly mechanic yesterday as I thought leak was around water pump. He said no, that it appears that the expansion tank cap was knackered, and water/steam escaping from it. Got a new replacement and it seems to have solved the problem about 80-90%, however it appears I'm still losing coolant somewhere, can't see anything obvious but notice that both cooling fans running after a 30 minute drive (of course that could be normal and I'm only noticing them becuase I'm paranoid).

I'll have to track down the leak, but in the meantime I'm wondering if I could have caused an air lock in the system as I've had to add water to empty expansion tank a few times.

Can somebody tell me how to bleed the system for air?

Thanks

Dave
 
dave66 said:
Hi,

Had a bit of a problem with my 2002 Freelander 1 TD4 cooling system at the weekend. I was travelling on motorway towing a horse box, going up a hill noticed temp gauge rising and loss of power. Pulled over and allowed things to cool down. Topped up expansion tank, well I say topped up, it took 2-3 liters of water. Limped home, stopping every so often to top up water.

Went to local friendly mechanic yesterday as I thought leak was around water pump. He said no, that it appears that the expansion tank cap was knackered, and water/steam escaping from it. Got a new replacement and it seems to have solved the problem about 80-90%, however it appears I'm still losing coolant somewhere, can't see anything obvious but notice that both cooling fans running after a 30 minute drive (of course that could be normal and I'm only noticing them becuase I'm paranoid).

I'll have to track down the leak, but in the meantime I'm wondering if I could have caused an air lock in the system as I've had to add water to empty expansion tank a few times.

Can somebody tell me how to bleed the system for air?

Thanks

Dave
Click to expand...


Check all the hoses for the leak,to bleed the system take the cap off when it's COLD,then start the car and let it run on tickover until all the air comes out.;)
 
I know it's a td4 but have you checked the engine oil for signs of contamination? If it's using that much water you may well of damaged the cylinder head.
 
is it the auto or manual also to bleed the system you have a plastic screw on the hose that runs into the bulkhead on the heater hose run you engine until hot and then open the valve slightly be careful not to far as it will drop down and wait until the bubbles have gone , if it is a auto check the hose that goes into the oil cooler (left hand side front of engine as you look at it) mine went there .
 
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Checked oil again and thankfully it's clear. I've also located the leak, it's in the rubber section of the top radiator hose near the radiator. Seems to be a 3 part hose, rubber from top of rad to "plastic" piece and the rubber at expansion tank. Looking at Land Rover parts list it appears they only sell full assembly. Off to friendly mechanic this morning to see if just the offending part can be replaced.

Teddywood1, thanks for info on bleed screw, I'll locate that once hose is replaced.
 
dave66 said:
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Checked oil again and thankfully it's clear. I've also located the leak, it's in the rubber section of the top radiator hose near the radiator. Seems to be a 3 part hose, rubber from top of rad to "plastic" piece and the rubber at expansion tank. Looking at Land Rover parts list it appears they only sell full assembly. Off to friendly mechanic this morning to see if just the offending part can be replaced.

Teddywood1, thanks for info on bleed screw, I'll locate that once hose is replaced.
Click to expand...

Good news mate, hopefully be a cheap fix and you'll be back on the road soon.
 
Duncp73 said:
Good news mate, hopefully be a cheap fix and you'll be back on the road soon.
Click to expand...

Yep, she's mobile at the moment, just carrying lots of water with me, but thankfully it's all short runs. Only have the car since end of January, clutch & clutch master cylinder died a week after getting the car, starting to fall out of love with it and actually considering a change to a Discovery as I do a fair bit of towing, which the Freelander handles but can help wondering if I'd be better off with a Discovery.
 
teddywood1 said:
just leave the top tank cap off then it will not boil over and it will not be pushed out by pressure.
Click to expand...

I'm rapidly losing my mind with this cooling issue. Located the leak in one hose, have ordered replacement part (£36 if I fit myself) patched the hose while waiting for the new hose. Checked after drive home yesterday and little to no water loss.

On drive to work this morning (no standing in traffic) had to pull over on motorway as temp gauge started climbing fairly quickly from mid way point. Both radiator fans running at full speed. Expansion tank was not dry and was above max.

Can't workout if this is because at this stage there is probably little coolant AOT coolant and most probably just water in the rad or if there is air locked in the system. When running there is water returning steadily to expansion tank.
 
It's highly likely that you have an air-lock - probably in the heater.

That would mean that there is a 2 to 3 litre shortfall in the coolant circulating.

Start up from cold and open the bleed screw which is on the return pipe from the heater.

As said beware the little rascal jumping out of your fingers and disappearing forever down the back of the engine.

You only need to slacken it one and a half turns - no need to take it right out anyway.

It sometimes takes several bleeds to get all the air out. After a coolant change it took me a week of bleeding every morning to get all the air out - very important if you are towing.

As for a disco - not for me anyway. I have a 2 tonne trailer which is usually only part loaded and my problem is not hills but wind resistance.

Good luck.
 
Singvogel said:
It's highly likely that you have an air-lock - probably in the heater.

That would mean that there is a 2 to 3 litre shortfall in the coolant circulating.

Start up from cold and open the bleed screw which is on the return pipe from the heater.

As said beware the little rascal jumping out of your fingers and disappearing forever down the back of the engine.

You only need to slacken it one and a half turns - no need to take it right out anyway.

It sometimes takes several bleeds to get all the air out. After a coolant change it took me a week of bleeding every morning to get all the air out - very important if you are towing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, it will help me stay sane.

Singvogel said:
As for a disco - not for me anyway. I have a 2 tonne trailer which is usually only part loaded and my problem is not hills but wind resistance.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

That's interesting about the disco. My Freelander is handling the towing, ok on steep hills, while it manages them it can struggle a little when I have two horses (ponies) in the box (below 80% of max towing). Aside from that the other minor issue is the size of the luggage compartment of the freelander, it really fills up fast (I used to have a Mondeo which had a cavernous boot). I'd be interested to hear why do you feel the disco wouldn't be a wise move?

Many thanks for your help
 
Could I just check, is the bleed screw is the one shown on the black hose:

CC6E996524A345E98535CAF705A8B174-0000336212-0003256976-00500L-A135E2C5D73145E294384799E6E3106C.jpg


and not the one shown below:

FF15E8E551204190BDE91EE61515C402-0000336212-0003256975-00500L-F222A1126F294F809612AAA9995098EF.jpg


Sorry for being such a noob and pain. I am capable of the work but it's a long time since I did such work and just can't afford to buy a Haynes manual at the moment
 
Buying a Disco would not be a wise move - for me - because as well as short local trips towing, I regularly do long solo motorway trips to the Balkans.

Whilst I wouldn't be bothered by the fuel consumption of a Disco locally - it's much too thirsty for foreign trips.

Even with the Freelanders 38mpg I used nearly 300 litres in the one week coming home from Bosnia last month.

With a Disco I couldn't afford to go there.

I agree about the boot space - but I have a roof-box.

A Disco might well suit you better if you tow a lot and have a low annual mileage - but I priced up the whole thing based on 12 - 15k miles a year and the Disco's total running costs are too high.
 
Singvogel said:
Got your PM.

Yes - the correct bleed screw is shown in the top picture on the black heater hose. :)

The other pic - with the Schraeder valve - is for the Air-Con - for God's sake don't open that one! :eek:

SV :cool:
Click to expand...

Thanks so much SV, much appreciated, off I go to make Freda Freelander bleed!
 
Round one of bleeding done, reckon there's more to go but definitely took in water from expansion tank. Letting it cool again and will top up expansion tank, don't want it sucking in air that I'm trying to get rid of ;)
 
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