Stuck thermostat inline mod

Adam131 · Sunday at 08:35

Thanks for messages and support. Yes I can confirm it’s the correct way round

il continue to monitor it and try get the engine up to temp to open the thermostat, was kind of hoping I would of seen this by now, especially with laptop connected and seeing a true live reading of temps , again used it yesterday for a good few hours on the country roads and even on my shooting marshes and still only got up to 86 whilst working hard on muddy tracks etc. levels etc in tank have remained exactly on the marks also.

Kerlaan · Sunday at 10:22

I would say it is unlikely but not impossible that you have an air lock? When I fitted my inline thermostat, I recall filling and running the engine for quite a while without the coolant tank cap in place and topping up a few times. Also, if the thermostat is closed, the engine block side got to a good temperature quickly and the downstream, i.e. AFTER the thermostat, I could feel a temperature difference by hand.

Also, as a guide to you, my motor is up to temperature in minutes from cold start and normal driving.

You do have an 88 degree C thermostat? What is stamped on the end (look at @pwood999 post photo, it shows 88)?? I would check yours isn`t opening early. This would also be the same as a stuck open thermostat I think.

My thermostat came from Rover75 inline kit but why it says only for TD4 manual I don't know. Is there a difference to the auto TD4?

pwood999 · Sunday at 11:14

BTW, that wasn't my photo !! Found it somewhere in this forum.

Got two of these sitting in my office waiting to be fitted to wife's & son's TD4's. 1-1/4" flanges, so hopefully should fit. £20 each from China.

Kerlaan · Sunday at 12:06

If you don`t remove it to check it for functioning, how do you know it isn`t stuck part open and impeding flow and creating an airlock without the bleed hole modification?

andyfreelandy · Sunday at 13:21

@pwood999 I bought one of those alloy jobs.

All good but it weeped at the threads and then, having been hot would not unscrew to allow me to seal it.

Just a heads up!! Seal thread before use would be my advice !!

Kerlaan · Sunday at 13:49

Adam131 said:
Thanks for messages and support. Yes I can confirm it’s the correct way round il continue to monitor it and try get the engine up to temp to open the thermostat, was kind of hoping I would of seen this by now, especially with laptop connected and seeing a true live reading of temps , again used it yesterday for a good few hours on the country roads and even on my shooting marshes and still only got up to 86 whilst working hard on muddy tracks etc. levels etc in tank have remained exactly on the marks also.

Just another afterthought... when I introduced the inline mod' and had removed the standard thermostat, I was paranoid about air locks since I had removed ALL the coolant from below and backflushed with a hose to get as much debris out of the system as possible. I jacked the front right wheel (as from inside car, for RHD, UK, drivers side) up to encourage air release up to and from the coolant tank (with cap off). I expected to need to bleed air out of the heater matrix too, but it wasn't necessary. I seem to recall letting the system idle without the cap on the expansion tank for 20 to 30 minutes.

pwood999 · Sunday at 14:01

andyfreelandy said:
@pwood999 I bought one of those alloy jobs.

All good but it weeped at the threads and then, having been hot would not unscrew to allow me to seal it.

Just a heads up!! Seal thread before use would be my advice !!

Good idea. I've got some Loctite thread sealer that I've used on both air & fluid fittings, so will remember to do that.

Freddie17 · Sunday at 17:00

Kerlaan said:
My thermostat came from Rover75 inline kit but why it says only for TD4 manual I don't know. Is there a difference to the auto TD4?

IIRC, the only difference for a TD4 auto vs a manual is the inline mod is placed in a slightly different position on the hoses.
The stat is the same.

andyfreelandy · Sunday at 17:05

Might be worth a read of this one. I did it 2 different ways on automatics as the hose layout is different.

Freelander 1 - Fuel Burning Heater - still on with temperature normal SOLVED

Some clarification please. My FBH runs at 5 degrees or below which is correct. When the car is fully warmed up and outside temperature still below 5 degrees it still runs. Reading RAVE, the internal FBH ECU should detect the coolant temperature and then control the FBH as required. Do I have...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Arctic2 · 2025-01-20T01:12:16+0000

pwood999 said:
BTW, that wasn't my photo !! Found it somewhere in this forum.

Got two of these sitting in my office waiting to be fitted to wife's & son's TD4's. 1-1/4" flanges, so hopefully should fit. £20 each from China.

View attachment 333508

Its my photo it as my name on it Arctic(c) and it's a gates stat i only ever use gates stats.

1

2

3

4

I have them already made up for our Nano meets 8 times a year.

Midlands Nano Meets : A group of Rover 75 and MG ZT enthusiasts, owners, appreciators and collectors. With expert knowledge of all things from MG to Rover and beyond.

www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk

Freelanders are also welcome

Adam131 · 2025-01-20T09:09:25+0000

thanks for all the support, I can confirm both are 88 degree stamped on them. I have tried them both this morning on the kitchen hob and both open perfectly and not faulty. Il refit and do an idle run up with cap of tank and see if there’s been an air lock. I’m happy running it was just confused as to why I suddenly wasn’t get a feed return in the little pipe to the tank and engine not getting hot enough.

Stuck thermostat inline mod

Adam131

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Kerlaan

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pwood999

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Kerlaan

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andyfreelandy

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Kerlaan

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pwood999

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Freddie17

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andyfreelandy

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Freelander 1 - Fuel Burning Heater - still on with temperature normal SOLVED

Arctic2

Well-Known Member

Midlands Nano Meets : A group of Rover 75 and MG ZT enthusiasts, owners, appreciators and collectors. With expert knowledge of all things from MG to Rover and beyond.

Adam131

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