BennehBoy's D2 adventure

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Sump's looking a bit cleaner!
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Will scotchbrite the mating face, machine polish the outside, and lacquer it - should be a bit easier to keep clean then I hope.
 
SO now that I have borrowed an engine crane I'll be removing most of the ancillaries and lifting the lump out to give it a clean, paint, replace the rear crank seal, and perhaps have a peep at the big end and main shells.

Rad and IC pulled out in one lump (I've already removed the grill)..
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PAS & Water pump unbolted and moved to one side:
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Next when I get a moment I'll remove the starter and alternator.
 
Belt tensioner idler removed to give access to the T50 holding the alternator in place (can be seen top left of the idler) - pulley bolt is left handed thread so turn right to loosen:
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T50 bolt out and the 'very grubby' alternator moved aside - anyone know if it will be OK to give this a parrafin bath?
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This rear coolant hose disconnected and moved next:
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CPS sensor disconnected:
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Oil pressure sensor disconnected:
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Starter motor off next.

After that just the two engine mount top nuts to remove (and 2 gearbox bolts) and it's ready to lift out.
 
Turbo removed - just makes access simpler:
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Milwaukee making childs play of the engine mount top nuts
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Earth undone from tensioner housing:
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Starter and 2 remaining gearbox bolts next, have just hosed the coolant out from underneath so will wait for it to dry up before going under (need a mechanics dolly).
 
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How are your engine mounts Benneh? Now you've gone so far it might be a wise time to replace.

Times like this when I wish I had a second vehicle, so I could do that amount of work to my own Disco. Or even just a medium sized job without worrying if I'll get it all back together before monday!

Keep keeping up the good work.
 
Engine is ready to lift out but I've nothing to attach it to in order to work on it, can't get hold of my mate to see if I can borrow his stand. Anyhow, have ordered one online, should be here tomorrow and wasn't very expensive at all.
 
did you replace the valve stem oil seals ????
surely its a false economy not to change the timing chain - unless its low mileage of course................

and great thread :)
 
No I've not done the stem seals, I'd need to buy a spring compressor...

Do you think I should do them? I don't get any blue smoke when the engine is cold.

Timing chain is v expensive for a new item, the existing one is not worn at all and has no sag.
 
Fed up of ****ing about with exhaust manifolds.... this arrived today:
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Umming and ahhing about rebuilding the short engine too, 280 quid all in if I don't replace piston rings, another 140 if I do rings too (but then will need running in oil too)
 
you would be foolish if you did not replace stem seals and timing chain at this stage,plus check all main and big end bearings,you gave gone this far,may as well do it proper now.;)

It's another 220 quid for the chain/sprocket kit, so given that the chain checks out I'm just going to have to be foolish.

Stem seals don't look too expensive, but will need to borrow a spring compressor - it means I can inspect the valves and seats at least.

280 for shells and bolts, again I think I'll need to give it a miss - I'll check the crank endfloat and if it's out of tolerance will rethink on this, turners do next day delivery.

I need this to be back together and running pronto, got to get me to France and back at beginning of August.

Also just noticed the MOT expired a week ago so there's another cost as it will fail on the front right hub which is ****ing oil out so need to get that replaced.

When it rains it pours!
 
i appreciate that the extra parts are going to cost you,but the t/chain is vitally important as you well know,imagine if that gave way on your travels in france??.you have gone this far,dont scrimp on it now mate.you know it makes sense.;)
 
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