Bennehboy
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PS, hope nobody sparks up near my shed
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BennehBoy's D2 adventure
- Thread starter Bennehboy
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Bennehboy
Well-Known Member
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- 2,215
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- Huddersfield
Parrafin cheaper than water based stuff and works a charm, I've saved all the mucky stuff and will sediment off the crap and reuse it
Love the dish washer idea, but think my wife would deffo kill me
Love the dish washer idea, but think my wife would deffo kill me
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Parrafin cheaper than water based stuff and works a charm, I've saved all the mucky stuff and will sediment off the crap and reuse it
Love the dish washer idea, but think my wife would deffo kill me
The normal technique is to wait until she is out
Bennehboy
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But she has evil powers of detection
Bennehboy
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Bad boy came out to remove the crank pulley bolt...
Got it cracked off then used 3/4, then 1/2 breaker bar to wind it out as it got closer to the rad - I'd already lifted the bottom of the rad out of the peg holes and pushed it forward, then put a sheet of ali down to stop me punching holes in it:
Pulley and damper off - dunno why I removed the 3 bolts, the timing pin in the flywheel held it solid so I didn't need to brace on those. Damper is in great shape:
Viscous pulley off:
Sump bolts removed, cross member off, pot jack between chassi and axle to give clearance, then the sump can slide out towards the axle:
Timing cover off, vac pump drain disconnected:
Timing chain, and oil pump chain, oil pump bolt is tight.
Stiffener/pump assembly, no lumps or bits in the sump which is good:
Broken tensioner guide and chain and sprocket off, the chain is flexing freely and not holding kinks, and there's no excessive lateral sag so it's going back in. Sprocket being replaced though - cheers Aaron!
Clean up the sump and timing cover next - then just need to grab the replacement guide and sprocket and it's time to reassemble.
Got it cracked off then used 3/4, then 1/2 breaker bar to wind it out as it got closer to the rad - I'd already lifted the bottom of the rad out of the peg holes and pushed it forward, then put a sheet of ali down to stop me punching holes in it:
Pulley and damper off - dunno why I removed the 3 bolts, the timing pin in the flywheel held it solid so I didn't need to brace on those. Damper is in great shape:
Viscous pulley off:
Sump bolts removed, cross member off, pot jack between chassi and axle to give clearance, then the sump can slide out towards the axle:
Timing cover off, vac pump drain disconnected:
Timing chain, and oil pump chain, oil pump bolt is tight.
Stiffener/pump assembly, no lumps or bits in the sump which is good:
Broken tensioner guide and chain and sprocket off, the chain is flexing freely and not holding kinks, and there's no excessive lateral sag so it's going back in. Sprocket being replaced though - cheers Aaron!
Clean up the sump and timing cover next - then just need to grab the replacement guide and sprocket and it's time to reassemble.
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gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
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excellent post this,well done and keep up the great work and pics.
Bennehboy
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excellent post this,well done and keep up the great work and pics.
Cheers, feels like a bit of an uphill struggle at the moment.
I'm seriously considering dropping the gearbox and tbox off so I can replace the rear crank seal - Gearbox rebuild isn't too far from done, just waiting on a replacement main case and I'm in no rush tbh.
Think I'm going to polish and lacquer the timing cover and sump too just for ****s n giggles
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
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- halfway between here and there.
Cheers, feels like a bit of an uphill struggle at the moment.
I'm seriously considering dropping the gearbox and tbox off so I can replace the rear crank seal - Gearbox rebuild isn't too far from done, just waiting on a replacement main case and I'm in no rush tbh.
Think I'm going to polish and lacquer the timing cover and sump too just for ****s n giggles
if you think the seal needs doing,then do it now while you can,better now than later.at least it will give you more confidence in it when it is finally back on the road.
Bennehboy
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Yeah that's exactly my thinking - I've done the gbox and tbox on the drive before and it's hard work but managable for 2. Course it's miles easier on a 4 poster like I did last time
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
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- halfway between here and there.
yes a pos ramp does make most things easier,but just do it and get it over with.job done.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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Would it not be easier to lift the engine out to do rear crank oil seal, Well what's left of it
Oh and top work
Oh and top work
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Bennehboy
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Would it not be easier to lift the engine out to do rear crank oil seal, Well what's left of it
Oh and top work
Yeah if I had an engine crane.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a gearbox and tbox though -> http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/lt230-rebuild-247618.html
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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Yep seen that
Fair play if you're going to put the new box in at the same time. If not it'd be engine out for me.
Welcome to borrow my engine crane if it makes life easier
Bennehboy
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Hmmm
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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Hmmm
Have a think about it. Or when you come down we'll have a chat about it then. Either way the offers their if needed
Bennehboy
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Cheers buddy
Bennehboy
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How high does your crane lift Aaron, the slam panel isn't removable on the D2 so it'd need to go quite high... (lifted vehicle)
Bennehboy
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Just thinking if I borrow it and lift the lump out I can do the seal and pop it all back in and get it on the road to go do the g & t box at my mates once I have more time.
Bennehboy
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Cleaned up the timing cover (what a pain of a job!)...
Before:
After:
Sump is next, it might get a polish over with a wire brush yet:
Before:
After:
Sump is next, it might get a polish over with a wire brush yet:
