Bankz's Defender TD5 90

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bankz5152 said:
I did check the injectors on the ECU appears all fine got the response 'Test Done' with no additional fault codes reading after testing all 5.

ECU should be fine as it is pretty sealed up where it is, plus I have been through much deeper water in the past with no issues!

Plan is to check the ECU (for water and oil) tonight along with the injector harness plug for oil, clean the MAP and MAF just for good measure. Crank sensor is on the bell housing right?
Click to expand...

It always works fine until it doesn't :)

If I go over a yump at speed, I get the same issue so assume it's cable tightening or rubbing somewhere (my money is on crank sensor just not got around to diagnosing properly)
 
Exactly! Except I really hate having to be recovered home!! It takes SUCH a long time especially in this ****ty weather! Not to mention frightening on the motorway!

Need to wash the muck off before I can get to the crack sensor may well be a weekend job :(
 
Spoke to Gigglepin today, they confirmed what I suspected chaffed wiring. Most likely above the gearbox apparently....

Either way I had 5 minutes this morning so I stripped out the rubber matting and the speaker so I can try and trace the throttle wiring a little, see if there are any breaks there. Sick of waiting I think Ill try and get the jetwash out tonight.....
 
I *may* be getting somewhere....

Traced the throttle loom behind the dash, stipped off the sheath and checked the cable. All good, no breaks. It then heads into a larger loom, into the engine bay and joins the main black plug loom. Still could not find any breaks but sprayed the area with WD40 anyway - After seeing some pic on another forum I am going to double check where the black plug loom splits into two.

I then removed the plug from the throttle potentiometer to check the connections more closely, all good again. I thought I would leave it unplugged and get some Nanocom readings. Started up and there was no EML light, idle was fine, until I knocked the headlight switch. Suddenly after 15/20 seconds of running the EML came on, no other lights. Just as it did when I lost throttle response over the weekend. Nanocom was reading the throttle as getting 5v, obviously no variation as the pedal wasnt plugged in...

So could it actually be the throttle pot? Despite where all the signs are pointing?

Either way whether it be the throttle pot or a break in the loom I have bought some trailer cable which I can use to run my own direct loom to the throttle from the ECU. If it works, then it was a break, if it doesn't its the throttle pot. Or the Crank Position Sensor...

Good news is I fixed my alarm mis-lock situation, it was the passenger side door switch cable shorting on the bulkhead. Found and heatskrinked. Also realised why the range on my alarm is so low, the aerial from the 10AS isnt plugged into anything..
 
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So I believe I have narrowed it down to the Crank Position Sensor failing or not fitted properly, for good measure I ordered a brand new genuine Land Rover sensor plus a genuine washer/spacer. Should have it fitted soon as it arrives really. To make things easier for myself I have removed the airbox and moved a few cables and pipes, much more access now.

Narrowed it down to the CPS as I bought a multimeter and tested the continuity between the ECU black plug and the pedal multiplug, jiggled the wires around as well in case it was a 'hidden' break, also tested the throttle multiplug against all other pins on the ECU just in case it was shorting on something else. Results as far as I can tell the wiring is in good condition and not chaffed.

If the fault re-appears then the final course of action will be to replace the throttle pot entirely.

While I was in there I re routed all my breather cables into one 'set' of pipes instead of them going bloody everywhere, much neater now. Also lathered a few areas of wiring in WD-40 get any water that is there away. Cleaned all the excess oil/gunk of the engine too, looks good plus if there is any oil/exhaust leaking ill be able to find it easier.

Gave the interior a bloody good clean after Salisbury, lathered all the leather in Auto Glym Leather Balm so should have that lovely new leather smell when I jump back in :D.

Got to say I am loving the higher ratio 5th gear, even though its only 10% it really makes a difference on the motorway.
 
So I do believe the EML issues I was having was down to the Crank Position Sensor. I have since changed it for a genuine one (£45 off ebay bargain!) Along with a new nitrile oring to seal it in place.

The old sensor wasnt a genuine LR and was missing the Oring, also very mucky when removed.

So far everything seems to be fine, driven around 100 miles or so with no issues. Starts perfectly runs perfectly.
 
Sorry I was pushing you towards a wiring loom fault. It turned out to be a red herring. But it sounded so like my wiring loom problem I was carried away. Plus, faults in the wiring loom itself are something that people on Landyzone tend to overlook for some reason, so I feel I've got to fly the flag for them.
 
2016 update!

I have new parts to fit :D

Treated myself to some Terrafirma Medium Load shocks & springs - Sick of the HD springs and most of the bushes on the dampers are perishing. To go with it I bought some Gywn Lewis HD turret securing rings, Gywn Lewis Galv HD front turrets and some Goodridge +2 Braided brake lines.

Got some busy times ahead!

I also need to take a trip to the Corbeau factory so they can look at my seats, one of the harness loops has popped out, been like it for a while but still shouldnt happen. There also appears to be some kind of spring coming loose on the passenger side which is wearing through the leather. Got to get it down before they are a year old.
 
Thanks :)

None as cash is tight at the moment, plus circumstances will be changing soon so I am upgrading to a 110 Double Cab Pick Up within the year. I will still be working on the 90 but anything that cant be swapped over to the 110 will be ditched.

Next step is a turbo and map from TD5inside who have had some excellent performance results for less than selling a kidney.

Though the Line Ex will be applied to various parts of the 110.
 
Small update!

Rear seat belt bracket and belt arrived. So shall be fitting that in the week, only bought one side as cash is tight, should make traveling the back a tad safer!

 
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I had a look at my passenger side door leak in the rain on saturday. I fixed the driver side by fitting draft excluder to the door frame to compress onto the door seal but this hasn't worked on the passenger side. anyway, in the rain I noticed that the drip seems to be coming through the bolts on the windscreen clamp. So next dry that's getting loosened and Sikaflexed. But I thought I might try some 'Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure' round the seal first? Also i reasoned that if the drivers side isn't leaking then blocking the passenger side of the end of the trough under the windscreen with Sikaflex will push water to the dry side? Laos thought of doing the same with the front ends of the gutters?
 
Possible yes. I had from the windscreen "hinges" too though I just sikaflex round them, solved the problem.

I did a similar thing with my doors and lined them with closed cell foam, does make them a little more water proof and creates a better seal.

Not tried the creeping crack cure yet...
 
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