What would you like pics of! Ill take em
Any more of Marquenterre? It looks great.
Bankz's Defender TD5 90
- Thread starter bankz5152
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Any more of Marquenterre? It looks great.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Yeah got a few on FB, hopefully this link works -
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155984214415082.1073741848.548315081&type=1&l=3ba698a518
Of to Salisbury Plain at the beginning of Dec that should be fun!
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10155984214415082.1073741848.548315081&type=1&l=3ba698a518
Of to Salisbury Plain at the beginning of Dec that should be fun!
Superb. Did you go with your local club or something mate? I would love to go there for the weekend or something.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Went with some guys I know from the old 4x4 Solutions off road site in Paddock Wood. It's a great place sand is fun to drive!
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
So the lighting upgrade is finally complete (ish)!
Got around to fitting the old lights of the front to the rear, need to adjust the outer lights a little for some more flood style light but overall very happy -
I say "ish" because my big lightbar came with a remote control unit which I quite like the idea of but I want it set up on the rears which makes more sense. I can't wire it in myself just yet as the way its been pre-wired as a loom to go directly to the battery and use the remote control as the switch which i dont like. So going to get my mate to give me a hand so I have remote control and manual switch on the dash.
Useful when camping, just have to click a switch on my keys then the rears come on
Got around to fitting the old lights of the front to the rear, need to adjust the outer lights a little for some more flood style light but overall very happy -
I say "ish" because my big lightbar came with a remote control unit which I quite like the idea of but I want it set up on the rears which makes more sense. I can't wire it in myself just yet as the way its been pre-wired as a loom to go directly to the battery and use the remote control as the switch which i dont like. So going to get my mate to give me a hand so I have remote control and manual switch on the dash.
Useful when camping, just have to click a switch on my keys then the rears come on
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Thanks to a short chat with Huffhuff and a bit of research I have decided to fit central locking when I refurb my doors.
Doors arnt shockingly bad but need doing as neither door will shut first time, passenger door really has to be slammed. Got new TD5 hinges and stainless bolts from Craddocks for free for winning a photo comp. So I need to get down to Halfords and have them colour match some paint.
- There needs to be a little repair work done on the bottoms but nothing drastic (I hope from last time I checked)
- Going to tint the windows with a 35% grey tint film - If I can do it without bubbles and look good if not Im not bothered.
- Fatmat across the metal panels once Im satisfied all the metal work is solid and sealed from rust etc...
- 10mm closed cell foam over the top
- Central Locking for the front doors
- New mounting points for the door cards so they are actually attached for once
- Paint the door cards black
- Bottom kick panel probably from YRM as they do a nice stainless one
- New seals all round
- Blank door handles (i.e no key hole)
Doors arnt shockingly bad but need doing as neither door will shut first time, passenger door really has to be slammed. Got new TD5 hinges and stainless bolts from Craddocks for free for winning a photo comp
. So I need to get down to Halfords and have them colour match some paint. - There needs to be a little repair work done on the bottoms but nothing drastic (I hope from last time I checked)
- Going to tint the windows with a 35% grey tint film - If I can do it without bubbles and look good if not Im not bothered.
- Fatmat across the metal panels once Im satisfied all the metal work is solid and sealed from rust etc...
- 10mm closed cell foam over the top
- Central Locking for the front doors
- New mounting points for the door cards so they are actually attached for once
- Paint the door cards black
- Bottom kick panel probably from YRM as they do a nice stainless one
- New seals all round
- Blank door handles (i.e no key hole)
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
So started removing the doors...
Left one has a crack up top
Any suggestions how to fix this?
Although its in much better condition than I previously thought! Got to break out the grinder soon, sand away all the rust, muck and old sound proofing.
After an hour with the grinder, looks much better. Found some patches of rust they alright to treat and paint? Or repair needed?
Here the bad one -
Left one has a crack up top
Any suggestions how to fix this?
Although its in much better condition than I previously thought! Got to break out the grinder soon, sand away all the rust, muck and old sound proofing.
After an hour with the grinder, looks much better. Found some patches of rust they alright to treat and paint? Or repair needed?
Here the bad one -
Last edited:
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Fun of the doors continued today!
Sound proofing started on the passenger door, as with everything else, covered with FatMat then a layer of 6mm closed cell foam, 120c high temp glue, then a second layer of 6mm foam on top for some extra insulation/sound proofing.
Central locking actuator fitted rather neatly if I do say so myself. Tested and works flawlessly. Key barrel has been removed and blanked off. No more opening the door with a 5p.
All the hinge bolts came out shockingly easy, though in typical Land Rover style the last bolt was buggered
Tried drilling the head off but my drill is total sh!t! So with *just* enough space I got the grinder in there and off it comes
Started on the drivers side door. Much better condition than the passenger side but either way was all sanded down, treated then a hefty coat of hammerite over the top.
This door was a bit more of a pain, few years ago the door handle half broke off so I bodged it back on even though I bought a spare... Doing this I actually managed to damage the door skin, though I have repaired it now. Well-ish its not perfect but it will do. Sorry no pics of this one!
Tomorrow the drivers side door will go through the same treatment. Also painted up the new hinges ready for fitting, MANY coats of filler primer then 3 coats of paint which is apparently Mercedes Meteor Grey, well close as I could get.
Also fitted this as you always need a way to open beer!
Just got to work out how, if I can without my head/car exploding, to wire the new central locking into the alarm. I have read its been done before so I *should* be able to do it!
The back door has been left off central locking just in case something goes wrong! Though that lock is solid.
Sound proofing started on the passenger door, as with everything else, covered with FatMat then a layer of 6mm closed cell foam, 120c high temp glue, then a second layer of 6mm foam on top for some extra insulation/sound proofing.
Central locking actuator fitted
rather neatly if I do say so myself. Tested and works flawlessly. Key barrel has been removed and blanked off. No more opening the door with a 5p.
All the hinge bolts came out shockingly easy, though in typical Land Rover style the last bolt was buggered
Tried drilling the head off but my drill is total sh!t! So with *just* enough space I got the grinder in there and off it comes
Started on the drivers side door. Much better condition than the passenger side but either way was all sanded down, treated then a hefty coat of hammerite over the top.
This door was a bit more of a pain, few years ago the door handle half broke off so I bodged it back on even though I bought a spare... Doing this I actually managed to damage the door skin, though I have repaired it now. Well-ish its not perfect but it will do. Sorry no pics of this one!
Tomorrow the drivers side door will go through the same treatment. Also painted up the new hinges ready for fitting, MANY coats of filler primer then 3 coats of paint which is apparently Mercedes Meteor Grey, well close as I could get.
Also fitted this as you always need a way to open beer!
Just got to work out how, if I can without my head/car exploding, to wire the new central locking into the alarm. I have read its been done before so I *should* be able to do it!
The back door has been left off central locking just in case something goes wrong! Though that lock is solid.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Painted hinges! Took a while but they came out ok, if it wasnt for the sub-par quality of the hinges theyd be great!
Opens this happens, because theres not enough of a gap
Fitted -
Nice fresh door cards! Also fitted in with a lot more screws and such, so they dont rattle like mad.
Both doors are properly sound proofed/deadened and you get a nice modern thump when you close! Central locking works really well after a couple adjustments. Now to try and fit it into the alarm..... Not looking forward to this.
I did find they while my doors do close better than they did before, they still need a slam especially the left door. I found the my door strikers and pretty worn! So new ones on the way should solve that issue.
Over all very happy!
Opens this happens, because theres not enough of a gap
Fitted -
Nice fresh door cards! Also fitted in with a lot more screws and such, so they dont rattle like mad.
Both doors are properly sound proofed/deadened and you get a nice modern thump when you close! Central locking works really well after a couple adjustments. Now to try and fit it into the alarm..... Not looking forward to this.
I did find they while my doors do close better than they did before, they still need a slam especially the left door. I found the my door strikers and pretty worn! So new ones on the way should solve that issue.
Over all very happy!
BronkoMini
Active Member
- Posts
- 337
- Location
- Wiltshire
How did you attach the lights to the back, as I am thinking of getting two for each side at the back of mine?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Removed the interior trim, drill a hole, put a bolt in, used a larger washer. Sealed all the holes with sikaflex
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 768
- Location
- Home Counties
You can either connect your hawk central locking to the 10as or you can bypass the hawk control unit and fit the actuators to the as10 directly. This is what I'm doing. But, my 10as is the 'budget' version so bought a kit off eBay to add the required relay etc
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
So just when I thought there was nothing to do.... Alarms playing up with it thinking a doors open... Got to try and solve that, luckily having the Nanocom I have a much better chance of doing it at home as well as turning on the CDL when needed.
Got an electronics engineering friend who's going to solder on the relay and resistor so thats a plus.
Worst news is either the spigot bush, clutch release bearing or layshaft bearing are (all) failing so for some peace of mind going to Ashcrofts, new box, HD bearings & higher ratio 5th which will be nice on the Motorway. Though that does mean ill be at least £1300 down so everything else is going to have to wait but it does mean it shouldnt leak... lol
Best news is my doors finally shut! New hinges, new strikers and they shut! with a nice thud n all! Also a hell of a lot quieter now, really is noticeably quieter. The straight through exhaust sounds like a standard back box now, so thats a plus.
Got an electronics engineering friend who's going to solder on the relay and resistor so thats a plus.
Worst news is either the spigot bush, clutch release bearing or layshaft bearing are (all) failing so for some peace of mind going to Ashcrofts, new box, HD bearings & higher ratio 5th which will be nice on the Motorway. Though that does mean ill be at least £1300 down so everything else is going to have to wait
but it does mean it shouldnt leak... lolBest news is my doors finally shut! New hinges, new strikers and they shut! with a nice thud n all! Also a hell of a lot quieter now, really is noticeably quieter. The straight through exhaust sounds like a standard back box now, so thats a plus.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
So booked in with Ashcrofts for mid November. I'm poor now but the landy will live!
SeanJ
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 236
- Location
- Kent/East Sussex border
I love that bottle opener, that is ace!!
AJC
Active Member
- Posts
- 471
- Location
- Preston,Lancs
good work, big changes
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Got back from Ashcroft's today! New box fitted with HD support bearings and a higher ratio 5th gear. The higher ratio 5th is great on the motorway, quieter and cruises happily at 70, will carry on happily, easily and a hell of a lot more quiet than before!
That said I am £1400 notes lighter, Christmas round the corner, before I know it, it will be Valentines Day so for the time being until I recoup my savings the planned work will have to take a side seat.
That said I am £1400 notes lighter, Christmas round the corner, before I know it, it will be Valentines Day so for the time being until I recoup my savings the planned work will have to take a side seat.
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
Just got back from a trip to the Salisbury Plain, great fun, really good couple days except the ole bugger died on me
Everything was going fine, drove up there, did some lanes, little bit of wading. Everything was fine until we stopping for lunch, came up to a roundabout and the EML came on no throttle response, restarted all fine, revved up but as soon as I put it in gear and touched the throttle EML came on and no throttle response. Nanocom came out immediately, plugged in no fault codes, no nothing. Throttle pot was reading fine, 5v and voltage adjusted as it should when peddle depressed.
Cleared the faults anyway, turned off left it for 1 min, back on and hey presto it worked. Drove off for lunch at Stonehenge (since when do you need a ticket to see it!!), started up same issue though this time it was permanent. Mate towed us to the hotel and I had a look, couldn’t find anything obvious and it suddenly came back to life… Left it till the morning started up drove around the area again all good. Went laning again then it died again when we stopped for tea. 8 hours later I finally got home on the back of a recovery lorry…. Drove off the lorry fine and into my garage so faults gone for now....
From what I have read it looks to be either an ECU earth fault or chafed wiring from the throttle pot. So wish me luck!
Anyway here’s a few pics from the weekend –
Everything was going fine, drove up there, did some lanes, little bit of wading. Everything was fine until we stopping for lunch, came up to a roundabout and the EML came on no throttle response, restarted all fine, revved up but as soon as I put it in gear and touched the throttle EML came on and no throttle response. Nanocom came out immediately, plugged in no fault codes, no nothing. Throttle pot was reading fine, 5v and voltage adjusted as it should when peddle depressed.
Cleared the faults anyway, turned off left it for 1 min, back on and hey presto it worked. Drove off for lunch at Stonehenge (since when do you need a ticket to see it!!), started up same issue though this time it was permanent. Mate towed us to the hotel and I had a look, couldn’t find anything obvious and it suddenly came back to life… Left it till the morning started up drove around the area again all good. Went laning again then it died again when we stopped for tea. 8 hours later I finally got home on the back of a recovery lorry…. Drove off the lorry fine and into my garage so faults gone for now....
From what I have read it looks to be either an ECU earth fault or chafed wiring from the throttle pot. So wish me luck!
Anyway here’s a few pics from the weekend –
huffhuff
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 768
- Location
- Home Counties
Something wet from wading, ECU connectors perhaps? Coincidence and it's injector seals/washers? Stretched/chaffed crank sensor?
bankz5152
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,311
- Location
- South London/North Kent
I did check the injectors on the ECU appears all fine got the response 'Test Done' with no additional fault codes reading after testing all 5.
ECU should be fine as it is pretty sealed up where it is, plus I have been through much deeper water in the past with no issues!
Plan is to check the ECU (for water and oil) tonight along with the injector harness plug for oil, clean the MAP and MAF just for good measure. Crank sensor is on the bell housing right?
ECU should be fine as it is pretty sealed up where it is, plus I have been through much deeper water in the past with no issues!
Plan is to check the ECU (for water and oil) tonight along with the injector harness plug for oil, clean the MAP and MAF just for good measure. Crank sensor is on the bell housing right?
