Ayresys Workshop Thread :)

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Another day another rescue

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This one has lost all pedal on the clutch, oil running down the clutch pedal so changed the master cylinder, regained some clutch but not all.

Noticed the wading plug was still in the bell housing and so took it out, about a litre of clutch fluid fell out :doh: so changed the slave cylinder and bingo got clutch back :)

I just thought to check the oil and I found this :eek:

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Ooh **** :doh:

Drained the best part of a gallon out of the sump to get it back to level, we suspect its leaking diesel into the sump through the head, so he's had it back for a few days and is going to check the oil every day and see how it changes but it'll no doubt need new injector seals in the head :rolleyes:

Plus it drives like a old knackered series :rolleyes:
 
That has to be a 6-7(or bit more) ton tractor? them straps don't look to be rated for that?

Those straps are 5t rated

I wouldn't have strapped it on like that. I would have used more solid points ie over rear link arms and over front weight block or each side of the front axle.
 
The rear link arms move, it didn't have a weight block on because of the loader

They would have stabiliser bars to stop that. Strapping them up would have pulled them in till they stopped anyway.

There's still a mounting point for the weight blocks where the protection bar for the loader is. Hence why I said front axle.

Failing that if there's the room then round the loader mounts in front of the cab.
 
They would have stabiliser bars to stop that. Strapping them up would have pulled them in till they stopped anyway.

There's still a mounting point for the weight blocks where the protection bar for the loader is. Hence why I said front axle.

Failing that if there's the room then round the loader mounts in front of the cab.

The wheels are held on better than the link arms, and they are wider, the wider out you get your securing points the more secure it is as you have leverage on your side, you wouldn't be able to secure on the lift arms well enough.

By pulling on the tyres you push them into the ground creating even more friction and greater surface area and the crossed pattern I use stops the tyre from turning and so it isn't going to move

Without using chains aswell this is preety much the best method
 
That is tied down properly mate.let these muppets post on what they like.straps are tight.not goin newhere.

I see transporters with 1 strap on front wheel and 1 on the back.dont move.1 range rovers on a transporter with 2 straps per vehicle. If any critism id say you use to many straps but cant be to cautious
 
said it before, an I still stick by it, only problem you have is the point where your straps cross.
being central to the wheel will allow it to rotate, your relying on the braking system of the vehicle to prevent forward / backward movement (which is probably sufficient)
short bridles across the front of the wheel will shift the single pivot point away from the centre and provide two points, one at each side of the wheel, having an equal pull downwards.
second point in crossing the straps under load is the friction generated and acute angles, with the possibility of the straps cutting each other. (or friction melting each other)
placing a shackle to act as a bridle would be more professional and alleviate the issue.

each to their own tho.
 
said it before, an I still stick by it, only problem you have is the point where your straps cross.
being central to the wheel will allow it to rotate, your relying on the braking system of the vehicle to prevent forward / backward movement (which is probably sufficient)
short bridles across the front of the wheel will shift the single pivot point away from the centre and provide two points, one at each side of the wheel, having an equal pull downwards.
second point in crossing the straps under load is the friction generated and acute angles, with the possibility of the straps cutting each other. (or friction melting each other)
placing a shackle to act as a bridle would be more professional and alleviate the issue.

each to their own tho.

I see your point and bridles would be useful for wheels, but in the 25 years dads been towing with that method he's never had one snap yet as we swap them when they start to tear. We always work on the theory that an extra 10 minutes spent on straps is better than having a load falling off.

And because the cross is below the centre point of the axle te turning effect is basically eliminated, we've towed lots of things without any brakes and this works just as well. But yeah bridles would be an improvement
 
Another day another rescue


E1FAB659-D2A0-4E63-A5AD-F6AC197CF2C9-8780-00000783472AC84E_zps3fe7c40b.jpg


This one has lost all pedal on the clutch, oil running down the clutch pedal so changed the master cylinder, regained some clutch but not all.

Noticed the wading plug was still in the bell housing and so took it out, about a litre of clutch fluid fell out :doh: so changed the slave cylinder and bingo got clutch back :)

I just thought to check the oil and I found this :eek:

DA6789F6-A839-4FCC-AE2A-8A156D2AA1BE-8780-000007833C68DB21_zps44bf6dc3.jpg


Ooh **** :doh:

Drained the best part of a gallon out of the sump to get it back to level, we suspect its leaking diesel into the sump through the head, so he's had it back for a few days and is going to check the oil every day and see how it changes but it'll no doubt need new injector seals in the head :rolleyes:

Plus it drives like a old knackered series :rolleyes:

Last TD5 I did with diesel in the sump had a crack in an injector bore so was leaking up the crack past the new injector seal, I could just see it with a big magnifying glass. We had it welded and machined.
 
That is tied down properly mate.let these muppets post on what they like.straps are tight.not goin newhere.

Muppets or not the idea is for every one to stick there 2Ps worth in,
other wise the thread and site would die
 
Yeah patched up fine, although most of te most mounts are rotten and it's rotten around the seatbelt mounts too, it's immaculate on the outside but it just shows what they look like on top isn't relevant to what's underneath haha

not bad then considering what the floorpan looks like :eek:

it looks like it's been on the seabed for ten years :)
 
More landrover build quality, window runners have pushed out of there screws and the runners slid down so the window rattles around as the nuts holding it in place have come loose, fine on a 1990 defender this is a 2 year old puma :doh:
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I've done 3 this week the door quality on new ones is terrible
 
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