any help on how to turn up boost on turbo

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Brian S said:
Thanks for that info mate. :)

The first job I did was decat and egr removal.

What I meant was, if the ecu is monitoring air flow and controlling the fuel flow, would it increase the fuel if I turned up the boost by shortening the actuator rod on the turbo.

I understand that all my electronics already increase power by about 20bhp but its still a slow old beast compared to everything else I drive so worth trying anything I can to increase power.

The engine and mechanicals are all fine and a service carried out and fluid changes done when I first brought it a few months ago.
Click to expand...


Hi Brian, looking at the other vehicles you have I'm not surprised that the Disco feels sluggish, and always will. I'm sure you understand about power/weight ratios:

Disco TDi 300auto weighs 2150kgs (depending on model) and has 120bhp - p/wt = 55.81 bhp per ton

BMW 330CI weighs approx 1500kgs and has 228bhp - p/wt = 152bhp per ton.

Therefore the BM should be three times as fast !!!!

My advice? Manage your expectations or you'll never be happy with your Disco.

PS - turning up the turbo will not increase fuelling but it will increase exhaust gas temps!!!! Not good.
 
Thanks.

I'll leave it alone then.

I'm not unhappy with the performance, when I first got it I was overtaking slower cars on A roads which I would never do in any of my old discos.

Just thought I would ask in case I am missing out on something. :)

On another note, I also have a Skoda Octavia with the 2.0ltr diesel (red i on the badge. :D) and with over 330lb of torque can make the Beemer seem sluggish at higher speeds.

A tickle on the throttle when doing 70 on the motorway and before I know it I'm nearing 100.

A little bit of That kind of poke in the landy would be nice. :lol:
 
Brian S said:
Thanks.

I'll leave it alone then.

I'm not unhappy with the performance, when I first got it I was overtaking slower cars on A roads which I would never do in any of my old discos.

Just thought I would ask in case I am missing out on something. :)

On another note, I also have a Skoda Octavia with the 2.0ltr diesel (red i on the badge. :D) and with over 330lb of torque can make the Beemer seem sluggish at higher speeds.

A tickle on the throttle when doing 70 on the motorway and before I know it I'm nearing 100.

A little bit of That kind of poke in the landy would be nice. :lol:
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Yes it would Brian - and no it ain't gonna happen:drum:

Dave
 
remove the 4 screws on top of the pump, mark ther diaphram and castleated wheel underneath (as well as the pump housing itself) turn them both 90 degrees clockwise, make sure everythings seated correctly, rescrew, shorten the turbo rod as above and off you go. my old challange truck had a fari bit of grunt and never had any problems on or off road..

hope this helps..

Please dont do it if your not sure.. its what i did and it worked for me..
 
Browny90 said:
remove the 4 screws on top of the pump, mark ther diaphram and castleated wheel underneath (as well as the pump housing itself) turn them both 90 degrees clockwise, make sure everythings seated correctly, rescrew, shorten the turbo rod as above and off you go. my old challange truck had a fari bit of grunt and never had any problems on or off road..

hope this helps..

Please dont do it if your not sure.. its what i did and it worked for me..
Click to expand...
He's got EDC so he can't do it that way!

Daz
 
Hello, I am fairly sure I don't have a waste gate?

If I do, its not visible on the outside. Is it inside the turbo ?

There are no ancillary connections to the exhaust and no ancillary connections to the air system.
 
:doh: Hello again. I'm learning, slowly.

Does this mean I have to remove the turbo if I want to shorten the wastegate rod ?

Another question:

As my vehicle goes better on (cool moisture laden air) days, I wonder if anyone has tried the old water injection trick, but rather than just spraying it in with a windscreen wiper pump so it turns to steam, perhaps a high pressure pump with fine mist nozzel to simply add a small amount of moisture to the air on the manifold inlet?

This pump could be on a manual switch for use when towing etc, not all the time, or when temperature is up ?

Now I know there is the risk of getting moisture past the pistons and into the oil, but if it a fine mist it should be little different than 100% humidity days.
 
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No matter how many threads you post on saying you don't have 1. You have,all 300tdi's have them no matter where in the world you are. Its under the manifold you can miss it l.
 
You could try a boost controller - which is a simple adjustable valve that only lets boost pressure past a ball bearing to open the wastegate at a certain pressure. You can fine tune it so you have full boost at the manifold - but you need a boost gauge to use one accurately.
Look here: Manual Boost Controller Complete with Fitting Kit - NOT A BLEED VALVE - #LOOK# | eBay

Its not a bleed type valve so is better to use.

Daz
 
Jason F said:
Ok, I'v got it. Its got a waste gate.

But what about the fine water spray option question?
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Hi Jason, I'm just beginning to wonder whether:

A. Your Disco is running right, because in standard trim they run very well - for what they are ie 2200kgs and 111bhp;

or

B. You bought the wrong car.

You will never really improve the performance significantly unless you have at least 200bhp under the bonnet.

My advice, ensure the car is running correctly, then relax.

Dave
 
Hi,

I like the vehicle. Its well built and I can tinker with it.

I'm quite conservative and just want to improve the HP a bit to make it more drivable. So far my slight mods have made a distinct improvement. I will be fitting the meters shortly to check I don't exceed limits when pulling a heavy load up a hill etc.

I'm not going to play with the turbo boost, just the fuel pump and exhaust flow.
 
Hello,

The Manual Boost Valve has got me thinking.

I get just over 1 Bar now and find that on local coastal drives (hilly) the boost is sitting at about 1Bar most of the time as I struggle to keep up with traffic.

What will the manual valve do?

As I understand it, it stops the boost being diverted past the turbo under certain conditions (I have no idea what conditions or why the waste gate even exists). Sounds like it just brings in a higher boost earlier ?, I suspect it does not actually increase the boost pressure ?

In fact, why cannot I just block off the tube to the waste gate ?
 
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turbo boost depends on engine revs (the amount of energy coming out into exhaust manifold)waste gate limits the amount of boost that turbo will give by bypassing some of the energy ,it only opens once predermind max boost has been achieved at higher rev range , you can alter this easily on a tdi by adjusting actuator rod (the shorter rod is the greater boost needed to open waste gate )increasing boost also increases burn temps in the cylinder which could cause serious damage if too high ,but many have tied waste gate shut on tdis with no issues as isnt particulary near limits in performance ,but then depends on driving use whether flat out down motor ways for long periods or just using max power sporadically as you might off road
 
Thanks James,

Do you think its cheaper to fit a $40 manual controller valve between the waste gate and the turbo outlet or just shorten the arm?

I am thinking I only want to go to about 1.2 to 1.3Bar.
 
Jason F said:
Thanks James,

Do you think its cheaper to fit a $40 manual controller valve between the waste gate and the turbo outlet or just shorten the arm?

I am thinking I only want to go to about 1.2 to 1.3Bar.
Click to expand...

The boost controller i put a link to will stop wastegate creep too (slightly moving open at lower pressure until open) the valve won't allow boost pressure to get to the wastegate until it reaches the pressure you set it at. You can fine tune it using your boost gauge ;)

Daz
 
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