raywin
Well-Known Member
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- 3,808
- Location
- North Yorkshire
So this has turned into a bit of a marathon due to circumstances, but I decided it was time to wrap it up now.
So put the nice new "o" rings onto the intermediate shaft (many thanks to Brown for his kindness) then grease the rings and manipulate the shaft into the intermediate gear using a bit of wire to lower in the gear cluster, its a bit of a fiddle. I greased the bearing tracks lightly before assembly.
Put the keeper plate in position and the retaining bolt then start to pull up the shaft nut using the crunch bar, I found that you can feel the collapsible spacer tighten up then start to give. Slowly tighten up the nut and keep feeling the intermediate end float, bit by bit it reduces until the float disappears, then use the luggage scale and the cord around the input shaft to check as the pre-load increases.
I tightened until the force needed to turn the input shaft went up by about 0.5 to 0.75 KG. Now the gearbox turns smoothly and there is no end float on any of the shafts.
This is a "no gasket " box but I wanted to use a gasket on the cover ( this will not affect any of the pre-loads) poured a bit of oil over the gears and turned the shafts before I closed it up just for protection.
Put one on here too
Checked the operation of Hi Low, and Diff Lock then put back the little ball and spring, sealed the grub screw.
Cleaned up the speedo mechanism put on a new o ring, but not fitted just yet.
Not the norm but I decided to spray the box mat black, i hear these boxes can run a bit warn and the black will help dissipate a bit of heat as well as protecting from muck, least that's the plan. Just wondered if James is looking I was thinking of using Comma SX75W-90 GL-5 Semi Synthetic Gear Oil in this box, I am a fan of synthetic and semis synthetic oils and wondered if this would be better than EP 90m which I think makes some gears run a bit hot.
Well just the input output seals to tap in and its done, many thanks to all who offered help and advice its been very interesting and I would say to anyone who is tempted to re-man one of these boxes have a go,take your time and you will end up with a box which you have confidence in.
Parts cost me about £120 but I did put in a new intermediate shaft, the OEM bearing kit from Island is very good using FAG and Timken bearings, but cheaper than individual bearings.
So put the nice new "o" rings onto the intermediate shaft (many thanks to Brown for his kindness) then grease the rings and manipulate the shaft into the intermediate gear using a bit of wire to lower in the gear cluster, its a bit of a fiddle. I greased the bearing tracks lightly before assembly.
Put the keeper plate in position and the retaining bolt then start to pull up the shaft nut using the crunch bar, I found that you can feel the collapsible spacer tighten up then start to give. Slowly tighten up the nut and keep feeling the intermediate end float, bit by bit it reduces until the float disappears, then use the luggage scale and the cord around the input shaft to check as the pre-load increases.
I tightened until the force needed to turn the input shaft went up by about 0.5 to 0.75 KG. Now the gearbox turns smoothly and there is no end float on any of the shafts.
This is a "no gasket " box but I wanted to use a gasket on the cover ( this will not affect any of the pre-loads) poured a bit of oil over the gears and turned the shafts before I closed it up just for protection.
Put one on here too
Checked the operation of Hi Low, and Diff Lock then put back the little ball and spring, sealed the grub screw.
Cleaned up the speedo mechanism put on a new o ring, but not fitted just yet.
Not the norm but I decided to spray the box mat black, i hear these boxes can run a bit warn and the black will help dissipate a bit of heat as well as protecting from muck, least that's the plan. Just wondered if James is looking I was thinking of using Comma SX75W-90 GL-5 Semi Synthetic Gear Oil in this box, I am a fan of synthetic and semis synthetic oils and wondered if this would be better than EP 90m which I think makes some gears run a bit hot.
Well just the input output seals to tap in and its done, many thanks to all who offered help and advice its been very interesting and I would say to anyone who is tempted to re-man one of these boxes have a go,take your time and you will end up with a box which you have confidence in.
Parts cost me about £120 but I did put in a new intermediate shaft, the OEM bearing kit from Island is very good using FAG and Timken bearings, but cheaper than individual bearings.
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