Another LT 230 rebuild which kit?

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Bennehboy said:
Simplest way to get the casings really looking nice is to use a wire brush on a drill, takes a bit of time but does look good when done.
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Is that what you used on yours? I read your thread and your casing looks like a new one. I have been using a wire brush on a battery drill it is OK but won't go right in the corners, also used the jet wash and even tried a bit of wheel cleaner, I know this is acid but just wondered if it might bring a better finish. This afternoon I used a small wire brush not much bigger than a tooth brush time consuming but it gets in the nooks and crannies.
I bought some plasticote black paint and intend to spray it when it is built up, hope it might look a bit neater.
 
I used various sized wire bits on a mains powered drill (high rpm) on all but the main case which I bought with a sleeve insert from ashcrofts. Grinder with a cup brush also works.

You can get bits that will get into the awkwards spots - I tend to pick up cheapo ones at landrover fairs.

I used this method to clean up a bell housing and an r380 extension case too.
 
If you were so inclined you could probably get a real high polish on with various grit polishing compounds, I know people do it on cylinder heads. :D
 
jamesmartin said:
thats just what i use ,although it doesnt effect the box operation its nice to finish up with a box thats up to spec and looks right too
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That's my feeling too, I like doing stuff like this and knowing that it has been done right with quality parts, but it's nice to have it look like some one has taken time to do a good job.
I also think it needs some kind of coating the muck sticks on the casing and the surface of the Aluminium gets oxidised so it won't stay clean for long if it is not protected in some way, and all that cleaning would be wasted.
By the way had a mail yesterday the parts are now shown as dispatched.
 
So parcel arrived with a few bits and bobs


Bit cold in the garage but I started to re build the diff first, using one sun and both shafts with the four planet wheels, I built up the assembly, and tried rotating it using one of the output shafts. I rubbed the spacer washers on some fine wet and dry rotating it often, then re assembled the parts and tried again, until the shaft would turn with a slight resistance and a slightly notchy feel to it, then swap over and repeat the process with the other sun wheel in position.
This took many attempts until both felt OK must admit it took me a while to get it feeling acceptable and I swapped the planet wheel shafts around until it felt something like.

OK mixed some 75-90 Semi Synthetic diff oil with a bit of Molislip gear box treatment, to use as assembly lube get some behind the brass washers and onto the new planet wheel shafts also on the gear teeth.

Nipped it up and went in to watch the snooker, too cold to concentrate today.
 
Still cold here but decided to do a bit more this afternoon.

Had a bit of a fry up, of course dammed gas cylinder gave out had to use back up one

fitted the two inner races, then checked the gap between the gears as shown in the manual, mine was 0.003" gap so that seems to be OK.

Wrap it up to keep it clean

Warmed up the case a little and knocked out the old outer race, tap the new one in and check that it is 1mm below the surface I prefer using the vernier to the feelers, hard to hold the vernier in one hand and the camera in the other but you get the idea.

So i thought I would try a "dry" build with the original shim, the new bearings are same manufacture as the old ones so maybe it will be OK.
Actually it spins silky smooth with no detectable end float, but it is too free I don't think there is any pre-load which is a shame, better put it to bed now and take a fresh look when it is a bit warmer, I will take out the shim and put the DTI on the shaft, suspect I will need to add shims
 
Cold or no cold wanted to press on, if Bradley can stand it I can.... whoops wait a minute.
Took out the shaft warmed the casing slightly and tapped the bearing outer race and shim out, cool the race and warm the casing and hey presto it drops in nicely little tap to be sure its home.


Set op the DTI and have a cuppa while everything settles to the same temperature, much prefer to use the DTI without a mag base if possible, much more stable and repeatable readings, modified the spindle of the mag base years ago so it has threads 8mm one end and 10 mm the other. still screws back in the mag base if needed.


Using a lever inside the box to lift the shaft up,took several readings averages at 2.26, so I am happy gap is 2.25- 2.26 mm




shim comes in at 2.35mm, so its a fraction big, but when I did the dry build it ran smoothly, it ran on a bit when I spun it but not freewheeling I will try again and do the spring balance thing.
Knocked out the input shaft outer races, to me they look to me as if they have been a bit hot so I decided to do check the end float on the input shaft, strip out the output shaft and wrap it in polythene.


Marked the bearing boxes to keep the inner and outer races together as they were delivered, shouldn't make much difference but best to do this.
Heat up the bearing inner races in oil then drop them on with a nice plop, allow them to cool.



OK similar set up to the output shaft.


More difficult to measure you need to be sure to use a lever and push the shaft well into the top taper bearing to try and stop it tilting. Averages at around 2.9mm for the end float.


But shim comes in at 3.48mm that's a pre load of 0.57mm surely too much


According to the manual pre load should be 0.05mm (0.002") like the output shaft. I wonder if that's the reason this box is in my garage and not slung under a discovery somewhere? Looks like I need to get a new shim or grind this one.
 
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All looks very accurate to me. Nice and clean too. Fortunately, with my new centre diff and bearings and original spacer mine felt just right when I put it together so I didn't do any further adjustment. Slight resistance but very smooth.

If you've got a lathe in there you might try skimming a thou or two off your spacer that way if need be.
 
Brown said:
All looks very accurate to me. Nice and clean too. Fortunately, with my new centre diff and bearings and original spacer mine felt just right when I put it together so I didn't do any further adjustment. Slight resistance but very smooth.

If you've got a lathe in there you might try skimming a thou or two off your spacer that way if need be.
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Thanks
No machineing facilities so I ,suet just I order a 3 mm shim to move forward
 
raywin said:
Thanks
No machineing facilities so I ,suet just I order a 3 mm shim to move forward
Click to expand...
I was thinking about getting a thicker spacer and rubbing it down with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface until it felt right. But in the event I didn't need to. The old one was just right.
 
I had a go at sanding the shim on a flat surface. Moved it round in a figure of 8 and swapped it round for a few minutes, it still measured the same, decided I would not live long enough to sand down 0.5 mm, so looks like a new shim is the only way.
 
raywin said:
I had a go at sanding the shim on a flat surface. Moved it round in a figure of 8 and swapped it round for a few minutes, it still measured the same, decided I would not live long enough to sand down 0.5 mm, so looks like a new shim is the only way.
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that does work with the series box 2nd and 3rd gear bush but steel shim is a bit too tough
 
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