greyhair
Well-Known Member
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- IN MY SHED
Coming along nicely
the repair panels look great
the repair panels look great
Another 90 Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
- Start date
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
Cheers, Greyhair. What have you decided to do with yours?
greyhair
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,303
- Location
- IN MY SHED
Hi new sides and all the repair panels are here ready to fit, just trying to find the time
Just done the seat box, looks great
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Keep your chin up and keep it going, mate. You're doing a great job.
I've had a bad cold for a few weeks and out of breath just walking up and down the drive, so just plodded on today.
Having dry fit the tub repair panels on Saturday I set about using the Dinitrol and seam sealer on the final fix today.
Soaked the area to be covered by the panels in Dinitrol.
Put a load of seam sealer around the edges of all the sections.
Then bolted it all down.
There's loads of Dinitrol in there and seam sealer around the edges, so it's got to last a long time
Bloody tin worm!You can just about see the shadow behind the upright from the tubular outrigger. The shadow is there cos there is about an 7mm gap between the upright and the tub where it is meant to bolt on to.
I've measured from the cross member to this upright on both sides
Sure enough, the drivers side is about 7mm closer to the rear crossmember!
I don't think I will be able to bend the tubular outrigger and so I reckon I'll have to put some steel packing in or thick washers. I think the outrigger looks too strong to bend and I don't want to damage the galv. Any ideas?
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
So, today I've put more seam sealer around the repair panel on the front end of the tub - the section behind the seats. When it gets rubbed down and painted over it should look pretty good.
I've offered up the galv body cappings to see how they fit.
The plan was to T wash them, etch prime them and rivet them in today.
On the whole they look good, but there are a few issues.
The holes on the cappings don't line up with the holes in the body work.
I would have to drill holes through the galv capping, but don't want to do this for obvious reasons. Has anyone else found this? I wonder if I have TD5 cappings instead of 300TDi?
The other problem is the gap on the rear quarter panel.
The other side is fine and is going to pull down ok when riveted. This side has a big gap and I can't push it together. I've probably got the new quarter panels out of square somehow
Anyone else had problems with the holes not lining up between the cappings and panels? I could always give YRM a call tomorrow.
I've offered up the galv body cappings to see how they fit.
The plan was to T wash them, etch prime them and rivet them in today.
On the whole they look good, but there are a few issues.
The holes on the cappings don't line up with the holes in the body work.
I would have to drill holes through the galv capping, but don't want to do this for obvious reasons. Has anyone else found this? I wonder if I have TD5 cappings instead of 300TDi?
The other problem is the gap on the rear quarter panel.
The other side is fine and is going to pull down ok when riveted. This side has a big gap and I can't push it together. I've probably got the new quarter panels out of square somehow
Anyone else had problems with the holes not lining up between the cappings and panels? I could always give YRM a call tomorrow.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Called YRM and found out that the body cappings LR make now have holes in different places and so I had two choices. Drill more holes through the body and fill the other ones or drill new holes in the new cappings. Decided to drill through the cappings. Yes it puts a hole through the galv, but hopefully painting the hole will protect it.
I've had to drill out the rivets from the back of the quarter panel again
This allowed the quarter panel to move back.
For some reason this means the quarter panel won't fit flush against the upstand on the inner wheel arch, so I'll have to pack this and then seam seal it from underneath. I'll put the rivets in, hopefully for the last time, after I have riveted the new body cappings on.
I've drilled out the new holes, T washed and etch primed them today.
They are back in the house out of harms way.
I am very pleased at how smooth the surfaces are. They should paint up well. The galv on the corner cappings is a bit rough and is going to take a bit of work to get a smooth surface.
I got snotty bits of seam sealer on the bulk head when I was fitting the repair panels and got that rubbed and cleaned down today and it looks much better.
Wire brushed some sections on the seat box frame down to shiny metal and got that etch primed.
I've got a new batter box ready to build on to it and then I'll paint it myself with rattle cans. It's getting covered in carpet anyway
Talking of painting, I've left another message with the body repair place I spoke to last year about doing the respray, I called week before last too. The lack of response is making me suspect he no longer wants to do it. Called another place this afternoon who have a good website with lots of pictures of before and after work they have done with great customer testimonials. He didn't want to do it though
Coincidently a neighbour stopped to talk to me and I mentioned the potential painting problem. He went off and came back with an iPad with pictures of an N reg 90 his mate had just spent 16 months rebuilding. The paint job was beautiful and he called the guy and got the name of the place who did his. They are only about 30 mile away, so quite local. I'll give them a call on Monday, fingers crossed
I've had to drill out the rivets from the back of the quarter panel again
This allowed the quarter panel to move back.
For some reason this means the quarter panel won't fit flush against the upstand on the inner wheel arch, so I'll have to pack this and then seam seal it from underneath. I'll put the rivets in, hopefully for the last time, after I have riveted the new body cappings on.
I've drilled out the new holes, T washed and etch primed them today.
They are back in the house out of harms way.
I am very pleased at how smooth the surfaces are. They should paint up well. The galv on the corner cappings is a bit rough and is going to take a bit of work to get a smooth surface.
I got snotty bits of seam sealer on the bulk head when I was fitting the repair panels and got that rubbed and cleaned down today and it looks much better.
Wire brushed some sections on the seat box frame down to shiny metal and got that etch primed.
I've got a new batter box ready to build on to it and then I'll paint it myself with rattle cans. It's getting covered in carpet anyway
Talking of painting, I've left another message with the body repair place I spoke to last year about doing the respray, I called week before last too. The lack of response is making me suspect he no longer wants to do it. Called another place this afternoon who have a good website with lots of pictures of before and after work they have done with great customer testimonials. He didn't want to do it though
Coincidently a neighbour stopped to talk to me and I mentioned the potential painting problem. He went off and came back with an iPad with pictures of an N reg 90 his mate had just spent 16 months rebuilding. The paint job was beautiful and he called the guy and got the name of the place who did his. They are only about 30 mile away, so quite local. I'll give them a call on Monday, fingers crossed
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Did a bit of work on the bulkhead today, just filling in and rubbing down where the repair panels have been welded in. Trying to get a smoother surface for painting.
Did a lot of filling of tiny dents and scratches on the wings. I've painted the inner seams with Rioja red paint I had made up in Halfords.
And have loosely fitted them together.
I'm not sure what to do next. I presume the plastic wheel arches should be painted separately then clipped on? Do you paint underside as well as the outside with the body colour paint?
Or, to save money, do you just do the outside with a bit of an overlap on to the underside and then dinitrol the underside after painting the outside? Would it save much money on the painting or is that a stupid idea? I've no idea about painting procedure so any advice/guidance would be welcomed.
Did a lot of filling of tiny dents and scratches on the wings. I've painted the inner seams with Rioja red paint I had made up in Halfords.
And have loosely fitted them together.
I'm not sure what to do next. I presume the plastic wheel arches should be painted separately then clipped on? Do you paint underside as well as the outside with the body colour paint?
Or, to save money, do you just do the outside with a bit of an overlap on to the underside and then dinitrol the underside after painting the outside? Would it save much money on the painting or is that a stupid idea? I've no idea about painting procedure so any advice/guidance would be welcomed.
samc88
Drivels spiritual representative
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- 2,838
- Location
- Anglesey, North Wales
I just painted under the tub and under the wings with underseal, it looks pretty good
Making good progress now
Making good progress now
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
I just painted under the tub and under the wings with underseal, it looks pretty good
Was that following a full respray?
greyhair
Well-Known Member
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- 1,303
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- IN MY SHED
I am having the same issues as you at the moment the paint shop that agreed to do my paint job are no longer interested, its a pain in the arse
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
I called in to the place my mate recommended after work tonight. They talked positively about painting mine and said they would want to paint it as separate parts. The place that hasn't called back wanted it all back together. The main man wasn't there so I'm calling back in tomorrow to hopefully get an estimate.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Paint shop reckon they can paint my landy in about 3 to 4 weeks time. That should work out well.
Got the top of the tub finally ready for the cappings today. Forgot about the galv corner pieces and the door hinge holes, so got them drilled. Finished priming them and then sprayed the tops with the rioja red body colour paint in rattle cans from Halfords.
I was surprised at how well that little bit of painting came out.
Got a lot of the new seat box parts rubbed down and etch primed.
For some reason the bottom of the tub sticks out over the rear crossmember about 1/4 inch. Can't remember if it used to do that on the old chassis. Don't think so. The other side is not as bad.
It's got something to do with fitting those bloody rear quarter panels. It's been a steep learning curve fitting those. Learning by mistakes that is!
Had hoped to get a lot more done today as the weather was glorious. Problem with working on the front drive and lawn is that all the neighbours stop to talk on the way by. Spent hours just talking! Still, better than having problem neighbours that complain about everything. Lucky really.
Got the top of the tub finally ready for the cappings today. Forgot about the galv corner pieces and the door hinge holes, so got them drilled. Finished priming them and then sprayed the tops with the rioja red body colour paint in rattle cans from Halfords.
I was surprised at how well that little bit of painting came out.
Got a lot of the new seat box parts rubbed down and etch primed.
For some reason the bottom of the tub sticks out over the rear crossmember about 1/4 inch. Can't remember if it used to do that on the old chassis. Don't think so. The other side is not as bad.
It's got something to do with fitting those bloody rear quarter panels. It's been a steep learning curve fitting those. Learning by mistakes that is!
Had hoped to get a lot more done today as the weather was glorious. Problem with working on the front drive and lawn is that all the neighbours stop to talk on the way by. Spent hours just talking! Still, better than having problem neighbours that complain about everything. Lucky really.
defenderdog
Active Member
- Posts
- 328
- Location
- Bedfordshire
Paint shop reckon they can paint my landy in about 3 to 4 weeks time. That should work out well.
Got the top of the tub finally ready for the cappings today. Forgot about the galv corner pieces and the door hinge holes, so got them drilled. Finished priming them and then sprayed the tops with the rioja red body colour paint in rattle cans from Halfords.
I was surprised at how well that little bit of painting came out.
Got a lot of the new seat box parts rubbed down and etch primed.
For some reason the bottom of the tub sticks out over the rear crossmember about 1/4 inch. Can't remember if it used to do that on the old chassis. Don't think so. The other side is not as bad.
It's got something to do with fitting those bloody rear quarter panels. It's been a steep learning curve fitting those. Learning by mistakes that is!
Had hoped to get a lot more done today as the weather was glorious. Problem with working on the front drive and lawn is that all the neighbours stop to talk on the way by. Spent hours just talking! Still, better than having problem neighbours that complain about everything. Lucky really.
Great work so far. Tell me, did you make your seat box parts or can you buy them as there not a lot left of mine.
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Bought them from YRM Metal Solutions. Very good parts and really helpful people. Link to YRM
If you get around to replacing them, make sure you insulate them from the steel parts of the body.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
- Posts
- 6,369
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- Doncaster
Looking good mate Before I read what you put about that paint coming out good, I had thought the same thing
Very good for a rattle can, abd a bit of extra protection before the cappings go back on and you can't get back to it again. Or not without a lot of hassle.
Before I read what you put about that paint coming out good, I had thought the same thing Very good for a rattle can, abd a bit of extra protection before the cappings go back on and you can't get back to it again. Or not without a lot of hassle.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Looking good mate
Very good for a rattle can, abd a bit of extra protection before the cappings go back on and you can't get back to it again. Or not without a lot of hassle.
Yeah, that's what I thought. Might as well paint the tops while I can see them. Once the cappings are riveted on I think I'll run some seam sealer along the outside edge. Thinking of squirting it in with a syringe. I'll leave the inside so it can ventilate. Not that much moisture should get in
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Have gone for 922mm as the dimension across the rear door frame.
Cut two pieces of wood that length to set the gap.
Used some strong cord to pull it together to grip the wood.
Most of the holes on the inner part of the wheel arch ended up in slightly different places and so I redrilled those. The holes in to the body cross member were out too, so had to be redrilled. This view is from under the wheel arch.
Fortunately I hadn't already drilled the hole for the door check strap so that wasn't mis-aligned. I drilled it before I took this picture tho. I put a plate over the other hole as the aluminium was a bit pitted there. I araldited it on and held it temporarily with a bolt.
The holes across the front face of the panels were pretty good, with only one being half a hole out in the end.
I riveted a square of aluminium on the back so I could filler up against it, as suggested by some of you on the number plate thread. cheers!
Floor is all riveted down.
And I got both sets of holes drilled for the reversing and fog lights.
Got the hinge holes drilled too, but no picture. Made a wooded jig from the old quarter panel to get the holes in the right place.
In the middle of packing up I realised I hadn't drilled the holes for the door latch or the light switch on the other side. Do those tomorrow.
Cut two pieces of wood that length to set the gap.
Used some strong cord to pull it together to grip the wood.
Most of the holes on the inner part of the wheel arch ended up in slightly different places and so I redrilled those. The holes in to the body cross member were out too, so had to be redrilled. This view is from under the wheel arch.
Fortunately I hadn't already drilled the hole for the door check strap so that wasn't mis-aligned. I drilled it before I took this picture tho. I put a plate over the other hole as the aluminium was a bit pitted there. I araldited it on and held it temporarily with a bolt.
The holes across the front face of the panels were pretty good, with only one being half a hole out in the end.
I riveted a square of aluminium on the back so I could filler up against it, as suggested by some of you on the number plate thread. cheers!
Floor is all riveted down.
And I got both sets of holes drilled for the reversing and fog lights.
Got the hinge holes drilled too, but no picture. Made a wooded jig from the old quarter panel to get the holes in the right place.
In the middle of packing up I realised I hadn't drilled the holes for the door latch or the light switch on the other side. Do those tomorrow.
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Poor weather today.
Got the top of the tub/wings straightened a bit as they were slightly bowed in. This meant that the cappings didn't lie flat along the side of the tub. I reckon it must have bowed from being tied to the roof of the car going to the shot blasters.
It's a better fit now, but not perfect. They don't lie flat anyway as the corner cappings keep them proud of the surface. It's annoying cos crap can get up there.
Anyway, after getting them straightened a bit I put the rubber strip along the top.
Put a strip along the inside of the capping where it presses on the inside of the tub. Mine didn't have that, but I've seen it on newer models.
It started raining then so I had to pull the tarp over and stop the job.
The gearbox tunnel support, that fixes to the bulkhead, was rotten at both bottom ends.
So I decided to work on that and fabricate some new ends. Nipping out to use the angle grinder between the down pours.
Cut some card templates to fit and decided to use the old door post supports as they were rusting at one end and I already have new ones.
Cut the new ends out and folded them in to shape. Marked a reference line 10cm up from the base of the tunnel ends so I could locate the new ends at the right length. Then cut the ends off and cleaned them up with the angle grinder.
Then I treated the ends of the steel tunnel section with rust treatment. The old door pillar supports looked zinc plated, so I cleaned them, T washed them (not sure if I should have), washed that off, panel wiped them and then gave them a coat of etch primer.
Then I Araldited the new ends on, checking their position against the reference mark. Still a couple of holes to drill, but I'll do that when the glue is well and truely set.
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag369/copperslip/IMG_5523_zpsjpxkufip.jpg
A new one was £60 so well worth fixing.
Got the top of the tub/wings straightened a bit as they were slightly bowed in. This meant that the cappings didn't lie flat along the side of the tub. I reckon it must have bowed from being tied to the roof of the car going to the shot blasters.
It's a better fit now, but not perfect. They don't lie flat anyway as the corner cappings keep them proud of the surface. It's annoying cos crap can get up there.
Anyway, after getting them straightened a bit I put the rubber strip along the top.
Put a strip along the inside of the capping where it presses on the inside of the tub. Mine didn't have that, but I've seen it on newer models.
It started raining then so I had to pull the tarp over and stop the job.
The gearbox tunnel support, that fixes to the bulkhead, was rotten at both bottom ends.
So I decided to work on that and fabricate some new ends. Nipping out to use the angle grinder between the down pours.
Cut some card templates to fit and decided to use the old door post supports as they were rusting at one end and I already have new ones.
Cut the new ends out and folded them in to shape. Marked a reference line 10cm up from the base of the tunnel ends so I could locate the new ends at the right length. Then cut the ends off and cleaned them up with the angle grinder.
Then I treated the ends of the steel tunnel section with rust treatment. The old door pillar supports looked zinc plated, so I cleaned them, T washed them (not sure if I should have), washed that off, panel wiped them and then gave them a coat of etch primer.
Then I Araldited the new ends on, checking their position against the reference mark. Still a couple of holes to drill, but I'll do that when the glue is well and truely set.
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag369/copperslip/IMG_5523_zpsjpxkufip.jpg
A new one was £60 so well worth fixing.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
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- 2,800
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- Derbyshire, j28 M1
very smart!
James_mac
Active Member
- Posts
- 264
- Location
- Leeds & Yeovil
Looking good mate. I can't wait until Iv got something that resembles a defender :-D
