Another 90 Rebuild

I don't much like jump leads, never had much luck with them. Having said that you normally see lights dimming when you turn the key if the battery is the problem. If that's not happening then you must have an earth issue or something else is going on.

greyhair said:

Looking good mate
I like the look of the silver grill also
Not long now and you will be driving her down the road

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Cheers, greyhair.
Can't wait to be driving her down the Road. Just the small matter of getting her started

Alibro said:

I don't much like jump leads, never had much luck with them. Having said that you normally see lights dimming when you turn the key if the battery is the problem. If that's not happening then you must have an earth issue or something else is going on.

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I can't imagine the battery to be in stunning condition and I was thinking you were right, which is why I tried the jump leads. I was going to take the battery off the Mondeo, but the card with the radio code is not in my Ford wallet on booklet things.
Anyway, with no difference with the jump leads I'm contemplating other things.

I've just got really excited while reading the owners handbook of the Landy. My major suspect now is the immobiliser. I've just changed the battery in the fob and went out and tried it! No luck , I really thought that was going to work. I can next try putting in the security code manually. You do that with the ignition key (back and forth from 0 to position II) and the drivers door. (open and close it) Unfortunately, I no longer have door switches as I was sold a 200TDi bulkhead instead of a 300Tdi (The early 200's didn't have door switches apparently) I'll have to wire the passenger ones together and put a temporary switch on the drivers cables. Then manually put in the security code and hope the fob then syncs to it. I'll try this tomorrow night.
I have noticed the oil light and battery light are on permanently, which obviously isn't right.

I might start another thread as I'm sure there are lots of folk with knowledge of this, but who probably don't follow this rebuild thread.

Looks like im outnumbered on the grill colour. I was going to say it should match the wheel arches then saw that they are the body colour. Still think they should match the wing vents in black.

mick the builder said:

Looks like im outnumbered on the grill colour. I was going to say it should match the wheel arches then saw that they are the body colour. Still think they should match the wing vents in black.

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Hi Mick. Yes, I'm a bit surprised at that. Sometimes I look at it and smile because I like it and at other times I'm not too sure. The Mrs really likes it and she has the equivalent of 10 votes, so we're all outnumbered . Funnily enough, while we were both stood looking at it this afternoon, I suggested I paint the wing vents silver. I've got silver 3D DEFENDER lettering to go along the front of the bonnet and silver 3d TDi lettering to go on the bottom of the front wings.

When i got my black 110 it had silver painted grill light surrounds and vents and to me it just looked liked plastic painted to look like steel and to me looked cheap. I painted them black and it looked much better ( in my opinion)

What do you mean look cheap! They are cheap.

My thoughts are that if the dash lights dim a bit, it isn't the immobiliser. I had problems with that on mine and it just did nothing at all. It was an aftermarket imobiliser though.

Are you sure you have all of the wires connected up properly on the starter motor? If not I'd probably suggest that it could be the starter. I am faaaaar from a pro on this though.

Looks great and I do like the colour scheme, but your opinion and obviously the wife's is the most important., if you like it then it's right for you, good luck with the starting problem I would re look at the immobiliser wiring.

Thanks for the thoughts, chaps.
James, the dash lights don't dim at all and so I'm thinking immobiliser to start with for my investigation. The fact that the battery light and oil light are permanently on is obviously a problem and I've no idea if this can be linked to the immobiliser or not. Instinct says not, but that is purely instinct based

I think I'll start another thread as there might be electrical wizards who do not follow my rebuild thread. Hopefully!

Might be a stupid suggestion but in Freelanders and MG's so long as the fob is the correct one, then pushing the unlock (or possibly lock) 5 times in quick succession will reset it and get the two talking again.
Probably clutching at straws but might be worth a try.

I'll clutch at any straw, mate. I'll try that tomorrow. Cheers.

I've had a lot of help on my other thread about my electrical issue. Learned a lot about the wiring and electricity.
Also, found the spider cable which I'd tucked to one side because the new battery box didn't have a hole for it. Nugget.
Got the spider bypass socket to go on the end of it.

I've now got power to the starter, but it won't start yet. Just get a loud clunk when I try to start it, so I think the starter is seized. I'll take it off at the weekend to have a look at it.
The Mrs picked up the new exhaust system I ordered a few days ago.

Got the front down pipe and centre box fitted.
Small steps, but hopefully, getting there.

After a bit of trouble with the starter motor, I think jamming on the flywheel, I got the Landy started today
Drove it down the street and back up on to the drive.
Not sure if this video will work.

Still lots to do and I'm also thinking of moving the bulkhead I'm not happy with it.

Works fine on my Samsung tablet

Cheers raywin. That's the first time I'd put a youtube video on LZ, so wasn't sure it would work. You done see the video before you click post reply, just the URL.

Thats a massive step bet your well chuffed. How come your thinking of moving bulkhead? Reason asking is I'm going be fitting a galvanised bulkhead next month first major job and may need a few pointers.

Good news Mr AL203, massive step forwards, soon be on the road again for good

TorsionBhudda said:

Thats a massive step bet your well chuffed. How come your thinking of moving bulkhead? Reason asking is I'm going be fitting a galvanised bulkhead next month first major job and may need a few pointers.

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Dead chuffed, mate. Can't believe it. I have some serious downs and ups in the last three days. First turned the key on Thursday and nothing happened. Thought it was the immobiliser not synchronised with the key, then the starter seemed goosed or even worse the engine. Simple fixes in the end and with help from lads on here got it started today. Massive high

I'm not happy with the set up of my bulkhead, but I also changed the chassis at the same time. This means your positioning the body panels, tub roof etc from scratch ie no fixed reference points. I take it your not doing that, so you will probably be ok. Take accurate measurements of your door gaps, top and bottom, of the lower parallel sections of the front doors. When you put your new bulkhead in you want to get the gap the same. You adjust this gap by putting M12 washers between the bulkhead and the outrigger. Each side can have a different number of washers. I don't think you'll have too much bother if it's the same chassis.

aaronmorris said:

Good news Mr AL203, massive step forwards, soon be on the road again for good

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Cheers, Aaron. Wasn't sure when this day would arrive. I'm over the moon. Next major target is the MOT I've already spoken to the MOT guy to find out what info he needed with it being on a new chassis. He said so long as the VIN plate was still in the front windscreen he didn't need anything on the chassis. I haven't booked it in yet as there is still a fair bit to do for the MOT requirements.

I had an issue with the door not fitting up against the curve of the tub and then the YRM, all in one, outer sill just fit between the wheel arches. Actually it was a bit short, but anyone else wouldn't have been able to tell unless it was one of you guys. Anyway, the outer sill was the straw that broke the camels back.
Decided it was worth trying to move the bulkhead and so this morning I started loosening things off. Took the front sill off, loosened the inner sill fixings, took the drivers floor plate out, loosened the front wing fixings and one of the steering column joints and took the drivers door off.
Took the weight of the bulkhead on the trolley jack and knocked the pin out. I used a length of timber to lever the bulkhead and outrigger apart.

Managed to get two washers in, which I'd estimated would sort the sill out and hoped would lift the door enough.

Fixed everything back together (although I've just remembered I haven't tightened the steering column joint! I'll do that after this post)
The door lines up perfectly now and the curved contour now fits the door seal. You could see a gap through before.

Got the outer sill back on and it's a much neater fit with the rear spat, with the spat over lapping it nicely. Didn't do this before!

Made a new seal for the heater fan out of some spare thick self adhesive foam I'd bought for the transmission tunnel.

Got the intake tube and grille cover fitted, but had to take it all out again to fit the washer bottle mounting bracket.
Got the bracket fitted and then the water bottle. I'd refitted new water pipe to both the front and rear washers jets and so got them connected up via two new non return valves.

They worked first time and I now have good jets to front and rear windows. The rear one has never worked in the eleven years we've had the vehicle.
I'm an exhaust hanger bracket missing. It's odd because the others I cleaned, rust treated and painted with black rustoleum, so don't know where the fourth one went.

Can anyone tell me which one/shape or part number I am missing that fits in here? The exhaust system drawings in my parts manual are not very clear at all. I'm hoping I haven't got the wrong box.
What is this sticking out part on the chassis for? My old chassis also had it, but can't remember what, if anything, was attached.

Still quite a few things to sort out. The brakes are very soft and spongy, so more vigorous bleeding required.
The clutch bites very low down. I replaced the slave cylinder just a year or two before the refurb and so the master is suspect number one. I'll try bleeding it again first though.
I'm going to read Mad Hat Man's 'how to set your tracking up' in FAQ as it will need looking at. I'm going to get new tyres and I'll get them to do it properly. Thinking it might be good to get it somewhere near for the drive to the MOT station.
Loads of other little jobs to do.
Doing another Paddocks order tonight. Hopefully, this will be the last order for the rebuild.