AMR 2109 bypass???

Firstly i am happy to give my name, address and land line phone number before anyone suggests i’m up to no good!

I would like to bypass my 1994 disco 1 V8 amr 2109 immobiliser, which of the three black & orange wires do i snip & join together please. I have named the wires, A, B & C for ease of description.

Sorted, it was just a case of joining both the same wires together, turned out on further inspection the three wires, a, b & c arnt all identicle, just join the two that are and bingo!

defendertd5 said:

Sorted, it was just a case of joining both the same wires together, turned out on further inspection the three wires, a, b & c arnt all identicle, just join the two that are and bingo!

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Hi there is this the plug that connects to the black box in the pas footwell I'm trying to find a way to bypass my immobiliser as the d1 hasnt been started in 2 years many thanks

Fuddymuck1989 said:

Hi there is this the plug that connects to the black box in the pas footwell I'm trying to find a way to bypass my immobiliser as the d1 hasnt been started in 2 years many thanks

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Don’t hold your breath defendertd5 hasn’t been seen in the Forum since August 2018, but it appears it is the white plug that he has posted a photo of.

discool said:

Don’t hold your breath defendertd5 hasn’t been seen in the Forum since August 2018, but it appears it is the white plug that he has posted a photo of.

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Thank you discool I haven't had so much trouble with a car since getting this bloody v8 lmao I've still not drove it

Fuddymuck1989 said:

Thank you discool I haven't had so much trouble with a car since getting this bloody v8 lmao I've still not drove it

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Then leave it alone if it’s not broke

discool said:

Then leave it alone if it’s not broke

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Oh it's broken atm wont start due to immobiliser kicking in hasnt been started in 2 years put battery on and hazards keep flashing and just wont turn over

Hazards have nothing to do with the immobiliser function, but the system could be an alarm condition, although not only the hazards flashing but the horn or alarm sounder normally sound as well, if connected that is.
If the engine is immobilised tuning the key in the drivers door lock to un-lock u should be able to remobilise the engine could be the micro switch in the door isn’t operating to do that which is understandable if it hasn’t been used for a while. Or u could use the fob and unlock/ lock and set/unset the system

Oh the horn is going off to but it's so old that it's not sounding after a play with the sounder horn it gives a little chirp now and I shall pull the door card off tomorrow but I dont know if it's where the cars been sat for so long but the key now wont work on the lock plenty of wd been sprayed inside with a lot of jiggling but it just wont turn at the moment

Well after a little bugger up by cutting wrong wire and joining it and then doing it right finally immobiliser is disconnected and is finally turning over but now having problems with no power to fuel pump so that's a job for another day but progress is progress

Fuddymuck1989 said:

Well after a little bugger up by cutting wrong wire and joining it and then doing it right finally immobiliser is disconnected and is finally turning over but now having problems with no power to fuel pump so that's a job for another day but progress is progress

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Ok the immobiliser isolates the starter and pump, so your halfway there.
A feed to the pump from the vehicle battery temporarily could work, if it does then install a permanent supply from the ignition switch so live from the second position.

discool said:

Ok the immobiliser isolates the starter and pump, so your halfway there.
A feed to the pump from the vehicle battery temporarily could work, if it does then install a permanent supply from the ignition switch so live from the second position.

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Your a legend mate thank you

I’m trying to remove AMR2109 on a 95 V8. You say you join the two wires of ABC in your pic that are the same. They all look the same in the pic! Can you remember if it’s AB, AC or BC that you shorted? Once you done that does that mean you don’t need to plug either of the two plugs (the other one is black) into the box? I’ve managed to get my v8 turning over by grounding the coil side of the start relay but it still won’t start. It has sparks as I’ve remove the black wire to the coil which I think is also part of immobiliser or alarm. So I’m wondering if there’s any other wires that have to be live or ground to the ecu before it will actually fire the injectors. I know about the one from the coil via a resistor (blue white wire I think).

It’s the first two wires in the white plug that need to be shorted, so that’s B and C in the photo.

I removed the AMR2109 completely from my 1994 300TDi Disco. Shorting wires B and C allowed the engine to crank but the fuel solenoid was still disabled. With a bit of work you could probably figure out what other wires to short to restore the fuel solenoid. I found it quicker and easier to disconnect the wire to the solenoid and run a new wire from the solenoid to the Ignition Live supply. I connected it to the thick yellow wire that’s plugged into the middle of the fuse box.

Hope that helps!

Robin