All I wanted to do was Paint the Rear Cross Member!

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I haven't checked this thread for a couple of months.... Great progress!

I sure you've got it under control, but how are you checking alignment of all the key bits? When I fitted my replacement (fr) outriggers I kept most of the body In place then refitted bulkhead and doors temporarily to check alignment. Once finished I then noticed that one outrigger was sat at a slight angle which tilted the bulkhead back just enough to cause problems. Had to cut & shut the outrigger bolt plates just to bring things back into alignment. How have you go e about it with that much rot and no bodywork for checking?
 
arc said:
I haven't checked this thread for a couple of months.... Great progress!

I sure you've got it under control, but how are you checking alignment of all the key bits? When I fitted my replacement (fr) outriggers I kept most of the body In place then refitted bulkhead and doors temporarily to check alignment. Once finished I then noticed that one outrigger was sat at a slight angle which tilted the bulkhead back just enough to cause problems. Had to cut & shut the outrigger bolt plates just to bring things back into alignment. How have you go e about it with that much rot and no bodywork for checking?
Click to expand...

Yeah that's a fair point, and one that had me going in circles for a while. One of the options I thought of was to sit the bulkhead and other bits in place, bolt the outrigger on then tack it to the chassis. When I removed the bulkhead there was a load of washers to space it from the outrigger, so it's distance from front to back can be adjusted that way, and that would also work to square it across the chassis to an extent too. The way I see it, it's all relative anyway, one thing bolts to another to another and so on until you get back to where you started... Level was done to match front spring seat and square was measured diagonal to the rear outrigger. There's some adjustment in the fixings and the panel gaps aren't that good on a Defender anyway and anything that's out by a long way, as you found yourself, can be fixed with a grinder and welder. I used to get really hung up on these sorts of things and worry about things not being perfect first time, I mean don't get me wrong, I have pride in my work and always do my best, but I just don't fret over it now, if you make a cock up you fix it and you learn for next time. I just enjoy it for what it is and keep smiling :)
 
I've no doubt you'll be able to make it work! Just nice to see how others go about the same challenges. Let us know how you get on with it all.
Cheers!
 
Ok been a bit longer than I expected but time for an update!

Out rigger and other chassis repairs done in a similar fashion to the other side then it was a case of making a rear cross member and welding it on...

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Other than mounting plates on the rear cross member and some holes for various things which I will do as it goes back together, that is all the welding done!!! :cheer2::banana:

Next step is some rust converter:

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It is currently drying, all being well, epoxy primer in the morning!
 
Kudos to you Dan Trails. That is some of the best fabrication I have seen. Puts most fabrication shops to shame, and the welding SECOND TO NONE. Keep up the good work and I look forward to the finished Landy.
 
mick the builder said:
Thats some rear crossmember, i think a certain top welder from the southeast of england might be watching intensely;). Top class job. Out of interest, how much have you spent on steel?
Click to expand...

Haha, thanks. Yeah the rear cross member probably is a bit over kill, but this whole thing started because of a rotten rear cross member so it was kind of fitting that it is over-built and the last thing done. I can't say much about what its cost me but lets just say perks of the job ;)
 
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