Advice please on dealing with a sheared manifold bolt

Grit Valve · Mar 31, 2013

Try the manifold studs your be surprise !! Your be able to drill
It better as James has said, start of with as tiny drill size after centre punching for better accuracy jobs a good en

Get that fan off

Thor1950 · Mar 31, 2013

jai_landrover said:
I have the same issue on a V8 manifold which I took off the motor now. Cobalt drill bits bought, centre punch didn't even mark the stud so hard its unbelieveble. I have tried the cobalt drills and so far its Just about marked the stud! Its being clamped into a milling machine and I think Diamond tipped mill will bore a hole in it so I can get an easy out in there. One thing with easyouts any twisting force at all will break it. you muct only uncrew it and not put any force sideways as they are ever so brittle.

In your case heat the thing up cherry red with a oxy, acetylene torch and then walk away.Let it cool to room temp and you will see how easy it drills. use a slow speed drill

The Mad Hat Man · Mar 31, 2013

Thor1950 said:
In your case heat the thing up cherry red with a oxy, acetylene torch and then walk away.Let it cool to room temp and you will see how easy it drills. use a slow speed drill

how do yu do that without oxy acetylene equipment? :doh:

Thor1950 · Mar 31, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
how do yu do that without oxy acetylene equipment? :doh:

Shirley he could find a m8 or a garage, beer tokens? If there is will there is a way

OakleyPilot · Mar 31, 2013

Hi folks, many thanks for all the excellent advise! All taken on board. Mad Hat Man was kind enough to come over and spend a good hour or two having a go at getting the cooling fan off. It won't budge for the moment, I have given it several soakings in WD40 through-out today and will try and purchase a flat long bar tomorrow to brace the coupling.

Decided that drilling this out in situ, at least for me, would be inviting further problems. Going to have a chat with some local professionals and see if I can get one of them to put their hands up for getting rid of the bolt. If the manifold does have to come off, which looks likely, then I will get a new one instead.

On a more positive note, I did manage to spend the day doing many other servicing tasks, removing all the breather hoses, cleaning thoroughly and refitting. Incredible how filthy some of them were, and have obviously never been cleaned in the 13 years since they were first installed.

The Mad Hat Man · Mar 31, 2013

jamesmartin said:
sometimes quite a few ,hitting each flat centrally works

might be a good idea to give this a go with a flat chisel, blade front to rear, and a decent size hammer. it cant do any harm.

Brown · Mar 31, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
Mite suggest that.

Just to confirm.... Td5 is anti clockwise int it - opposite to 200/300 viscous nut?

Yes, that's how it works on mine. Normal right handed threat on the TD5 fan.

saxosportsaxo · Apr 1, 2013

I have an angle drill I could lend if required

xat44 · Apr 2, 2013

an alternative to even trying to get it out, and this is a bodge i know. just bolt the blanking plate on with one bolt, a larger washer and plenty of exhaust sealer. if nothing else, you`ll be able to use the vehicle until a more thorough job can be done.

Grit Valve · Apr 2, 2013

xat44 said:
an alternative to even trying to get it out, and this is a bodge i know. just bolt the blanking plate on with one bolt, a larger washer and plenty of exhaust sealer. if nothing else, you`ll be able to use the vehicle until a more thorough job can be done.

What you like the extra Strain on the one bolt combined with the movement of the engine would head for Disaster...
Ie two snapped bolts

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 2, 2013

xat44 said:
an alternative to even trying to get it out, and this is a bodge i know. just bolt the blanking plate on with one bolt, a larger washer and plenty of exhaust sealer. if nothing else, you`ll be able to use the vehicle until a more thorough job can be done.

We had thought of trying to clamp the sheared bolt side and a bolt in the other, but that doesnt resolve the problem. It might enable the vehicle to be driven to be fixed though.

xat44 · Apr 2, 2013

defender300td1 said:
What you like the extra Strain on the one bolt combined with the movement of the engine would head for Disaster...
Ie two snapped bolts

i see where your coming from. but i`m assuming that his egr removal kit for a d2 is similar to the one on mine. and that it`s just a blanking plate.

Grit Valve · Apr 2, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
We had thought of trying to clamp the sheared bolt side and a bolt in the other, but that doesnt resolve the problem. It might enable the vehicle to be driven to be fixed though.

if you need to move it nothing , a right size g clamp won't sort out

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 2, 2013

thats why that hasnt been tried. a right angle drill is the answer really.

Grit Valve · Apr 2, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
thats why that hasnt been tried. a right angle drill is the answer really.

I wouldn't **** about drilling side ways un less your going for the nut and bolt option , are the studs on the manifold really that bad get it off!

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 2, 2013

not my decision - tiz the owners....

good gracious... is that Clivees i see down there VVVVV? how ya doing? been a long time.

Kwakerman · Apr 2, 2013

Not sure how much space you have but could you make the blanking plate out of steel (if it's ally), bolt it on with the good side and then mig weld it in place?

OakleyPilot · Apr 3, 2013

Hi all, local mechanic is willing to take a look but not until next week. So in the mean time I took out the intercooler for a clean and am just fighting the hose connections to the transmission cooler in order to get the radiator out. This should give a bit more room to get a drill in there.

Viscous fan still unwilling to budge, got a bar on the way to try and brace the coupling.

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 3, 2013

have yu tried welting it on all the flats yet?

OakleyPilot · Apr 4, 2013

The Mad Hat Man said:
have yu tried welting it on all the flats yet?

Yes tried with a hefty masonry chisel, made no difference.

However..

Today received the tool to hold the coupling, it fits around the three bolts. This did the trick, still took several hefty whacks to free it but the fan is now off.

With the intercooler removed for cleaning and the radiator pushed forward I can now get a straight drill in there just. Next step is to buy a couple of cobalt drill bits and think I will give this a try myself. I will also try and pick up some cutting oil to aid the process.

Advice please on dealing with a sheared manifold bolt

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