Disco 2 ACE Problem

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Couldnt check on mine with nanocom cos my son took the D2 and went skiing for a week... changing the ECU to rule it out would be a god move... what about the warning lamp test ?
 
If the ECU is bad, I wonder what made it fail since it worked before I replaced the hydraulic pipes. Perhaps when I stupidly reversed the bottom two pipes on the valve block?
 
Then the ECU must be ruled out before anythig else, they are not the best engineering and not very uncommon failure most of them due to moisture or water ingress in the area
 
Gros Niglik said:
If the ECU is bad, I wonder what made it fail since it worked before I replaced the hydraulic pipes. Perhaps when I stupidly reversed the bottom two pipes on the valve block?
Click to expand...
I dont think that the hydraulic side woud affect the ECU but as the output tests are all failing it must be ruled out before going further, then if no change it can become a bit complicated to diagnose so let's see what happens with a 100% good ECU first... make sure that F15 in the engine bay fusebox is good
 
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What you say makes sense. ECU has been ordered. I also ordered another valve block just in case. From the photos it appears to be in excellent shape and it is guarajnteed. I think I wasted my money on the valve block but good to have a second spare.
 
sierrafery said:
Then the ECU must be ruled out before anythig else, they are not the best engineering and not very uncommon failure most of them due to moisture or water ingress in the area
Click to expand...
I think mine failed due to a lot of splashed water around the block, and something MAY have shorted. I have ran another 4 or so years no issue, but I do have a failing solenoid to swap over.

But as SF says, they are not robust.
 
How much movement of the fluid in the reservoir at idle is normal? Should it be as aggressive as in the PAS reservoir? There is very little movement in my reservoir.
 
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