P38A ABS & TC lights

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pete12345 said:
Well it was now nothing on the fronts will wait for rain to stop then go and push fronts in bit to make sure
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Sensors should be pushed in until they contact the reluctor ring but use thumb or finger pressure only, if they are stiff take them out and ream or file the bores out until they go in smoothly, don't hammer them in as they have to be able to move out slightly and self set their own air gap.
I'm guessing a Nanocom cannot detect too large an air gap.
 
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pete12345 said:
Well it was now nothing on the fronts will wait for rain to stop then go and push fronts in bit to make sure
Click to expand...
Silly one, when we got Otto, before we started running a dehumidifier in him most of the time, or if we forget to empty it and he gets a little damp, we get erratic or no speedo readings for a while, until he warms up and/or vents the damp out. Presume it affects the wiring for that somewhere in the dash area.
Give it a reasonable run with aircon drying it before assuming sensors faulty?
 
Cheers will but mines off the road at present but all dry inside pushed home the front sensors still no joy am going to replace the rear left just to make sure the readings ain’t playing up then it must be ecu related surely
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
Silly one, when we got Otto, before we started running a dehumidifier in him most of the time, or if we forget to empty it and he gets a little damp, we get erratic or no speedo readings for a while, until he warms up and/or vents the damp out. Presume it affects the wiring for that somewhere in the dash area.
Give it a reasonable run with aircon drying it before assuming sensors faulty?
Click to expand...
It's usually the BECM that is affected by damp:eek:
 
The only time I have had erroneous error messages is when the battery charge was low e.g. gearbox fault errors in the message centre - never abs or tc errors.
On another note the new sensor arrived from Autodoc the other day - manufactured by All Brake Systems (A.B.S) BV in the Netherlands, so I'm hoping the quality is better than the previous sensors.
Curiously the sleeved fixing grommets are not bonded to the cable in set positions, you can actually slide them up and down the cable quite easily, something you couldn't do with any of the others.
Will be interesting to see how long this brand lasts.
 
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alanlucas said:
5 months later - abs and traction lights on again - so much for the Dutch made sensors :(
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Need to look for the root cause, sensors do not normally fail like that, I have cheap ones in the front of both my P38's after destroying the originals when doing the swivels and have had no trouble at all. Something must be taking the sensors out.
 
I have had 2 DSF ABS sensors pack up inexplicably and each time it seemed to happen shortly after a pothole strike.
On each occasion the sensor went Open Circuit.
They are easy enough to check though. I now keep a spare on hand. :)
 
kermit_rr said:
@alanlucas I think i have a new 'in the bag' sensor going spare, if you need a new one
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Thanks Kerm.
I took them both out and greased them and put them back but still no joy. I need to test each one to find out if its just the one that's duff or both. What make is yours and how much you asking ? I've got my eye on a pair of Quinton Hazell ones this time. I've been looking for genuine Wabco 90 degree truck ones that are similar in length but have no grommets and found one or two part numbers, but Provia make them for Wabco and if you look at the Provia manufacturing drawing they are made in China lol. I still think the aftermarket ones are crap, the windings must burn out or break over time or the coil is thinner wire or less well insulated. After all its a passive sensor with no moving parts. Maybe a voltage spike takes them out but the rears are genuine Wabco and still working fine 23 years so they must be much more robust. My 1990 Ford Granada mk3 saloon still has its original ABS sensors. I can vouch for that as I've owned it since 1993 lol.
 
alanlucas said:
Thanks Kerm.
I took them both out and greased them and put them back but still no joy. I need to test each one to find out if its just the one that's duff or both. What make is yours and how much you asking ? I've got my eye on a pair of Quinton Hazell ones this time. I've been looking for genuine Wabco 90 degree truck ones that are similar in length but have no grommets and found one or two part numbers, but Provia make them for Wabco and if you look at the Provia manufacturing drawing they are made in China lol. I still think the aftermarket ones are crap, the windings must burn out or break over time or the coil is thinner wire or less well insulated. After all its a passive sensor with no moving parts. Maybe a voltage spike takes them out but the rears are genuine Wabco and still working fine 23 years so they must be much more robust. My 1990 Ford Granada mk3 saloon still has its original ABS sensors. I can vouch for that as I've owned it since 1993 lol.
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alanlucas said:
Thanks Kerm.
I took them both out and greased them and put them back but still no joy. I need to test each one to find out if its just the one that's duff or both. What make is yours and how much you asking ? I've got my eye on a pair of Quinton Hazell ones this time. I've been looking for genuine Wabco 90 degree truck ones that are similar in length but have no grommets and found one or two part numbers, but Provia make them for Wabco and if you look at the Provia manufacturing drawing they are made in China lol. I still think the aftermarket ones are crap, the windings must burn out or break over time or the coil is thinner wire or less well insulated. After all its a passive sensor with no moving parts. Maybe a voltage spike takes them out but the rears are genuine Wabco and still working fine 23 years so they must be much more robust. My 1990 Ford Granada mk3 saloon still has its original ABS sensors. I can vouch for that as I've owned it since 1993 lol.
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I've just one, it's allmakes, with the spring shim thingybob. Never been out of the bag, label says made in China by autotec 02 November 2020.
£25 on ebay etc so make a fair offer and it's yours, if you decide you want it
 
OSF sensor open circuit aka infinite resistance (OL) on multimeter.
Prised the stainless steel sheath off the sensor and there was a small quantity of water in the bottom where the dimple is.
Water has obviously gotten past the plastic end cap and the stainless sheath and the internal rubber 'O' ring inside the sensor.
Whether this has caused the fault God knows.
I would have thought water would have cause a dead short , not open circuit.
The sensor is still encapsulated in plastic apart from a white metal tip protruding from the centre of the base. No visible gap to determine if water has got in past the tip and the encapsulation.
 
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alanlucas said:
OSF sensor open circuit aka infinite resistance (OL) on multimeter.
Prised the stainless steel sheath off the sensor and there was a small quantity of water in the bottom where the dimple is.
Water has obviously gotten past the plastic end cap and the stainless sheath and the internal rubber 'O' ring inside the sensor.
Whether this has caused the fault God knows.
I would have thought water would have cause a dead short , not open circuit.
The sensor is still encapsulated in plastic apart from a white metal tip protruding from the centre of the base. No visible gap to determine if water has got in past the tip and the encapsulation.
Click to expand...

That should be IP66 (or is it IP68?) rated so no water should be able to get in, even under reasonable pressure after going through a puddle at speed. So not fit for purpose.
 
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