P38A ABS & TC lights

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DanClarke said:
Oh, and interestingly, the "sensor" has no "tooth" (which I would expect to see from any transducer type device. The ABS sensor I extracted was a flat-ended cylinder; no protrusion, no tooth. Looked reminiscent of the -ve end of an AA battery with the wrapper off and just the metal case exposed.
But as I have never seen one before I know no different /better.
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The teeth are on the shaft. If you look down the hole you should see them. As each tooth passes by the sensor picks it up. That's why it has to be so close. Don't have RAVE to hand but if you look in there it will tell you what sort of grease. The grease seems to help it stay put so I'd find the right sort. Also, the springy collet thing the sensor sits in should be tight so it doesn't move.
 
Dan, similar lights came up on mine a few weeks ago leading to no brakes and diagnosed as a failed pump!
The man in the independent garage said if the pump doesn't work for a few seconds..or more when ignition turned on its failing..if it is that beware.. A distinct sphincter moment follows...
 
H&I P38 said:
Dan, similar lights came up on mine a few weeks ago leading to no brakes and diagnosed as a failed pump!
The man in the independent garage said if the pump doesn't work for a few seconds..or more when ignition turned on its failing..if it is that beware.. A distinct sphincter moment follows...
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Hi @H&I P38 , I don't think its the pump, at least I sure as hell hope it isn't. I am about to replace the brake accumulator anyway as it is 18 years old and the pump runs after almost every braking attempt (I believe it should run long enough to pressurise the system to allow for 4-6 touches of the brakes before it has to run again). So I am hopeful that with a new accumulator and a "used/good" ECU I may be able to resolve this problem.
 
Well fingers crossed, I paid £130 at a beakers plus an hour labour so not too hefty. Quick question I posted in the questions discussion part of the site re Engine replacement! Is it the wrong place, being a new boy?!, to get some input..I couldnt seem to post here!
 
H&I P38 said:
Well fingers crossed, I paid £130 at a beakers plus an hour labour so not too hefty. Quick question I posted in the questions discussion part of the site re Engine replacement! Is it the wrong place, being a new boy?!, to get some input..I couldnt seem to post here!
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TBH, if your question is about engine replacement for a specific model of Landie I would put the question where others having that same model are likely to see it.
I don't think there is anything at all "new" to be found on (for instance) my 18 year old model of Range-Rover so asking in the RR area for recommendations will bring up bags of experience from people who have already trodden the path before.
Hope that helps.
 
I doubt it's the ECU. As I mentioned before.. I've never seen one with anything other than "LH Rear sensor short to another sensor" being an ECU fault.

If swapping the ECU DOES fix it, can I get a hold of the dud one? I'd be interested to see if it's the same fault as what causes the "LH Rear Sensor short to another sensor" fault that I can repair.
 
OK, as I felt that the Accumulator was "Tired" after 18 years of sitting there just "Accumulating-nitrogen leaks" I just changed it for a brand new one.
Will give it a run after rush hour is all over and folks are home watching rubbish TV and eating junk-food. Next is the ECU (awaiting delivery).
**UPDATE**
Did a test drive with the new accumulator. Brake Booster pump now only runs for every 3rd/4th braking operation instead of after every braking operation.
But ABS & Traction lights still on etc.
 
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martyuk said:
I doubt it's the ECU. As I mentioned before.. I've never seen one with anything other than "LH Rear sensor short to another sensor" being an ECU fault.

If swapping the ECU DOES fix it, can I get a hold of the dud one? I'd be interested to see if it's the same fault as what causes the "LH Rear Sensor short to another sensor" fault that I can repair.
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If it does, and if I do, and if you can repair it......can I have it back as a spare? ;-)
 
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£95 for the repair, and I'll include return postage for that. I've got it on my website - yours would come under the repair service rather than the exchange unit:

http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=77

I'm away for work a lot at the moment (though I actually have an ABS ECU arriving here today to be looked at before I head off again tomorrow).

Drop me a PM if the ECU fixes it and you'd like me to take a look at your one, and we can work something out for when I'm back from work again.
 
DanClarke said:
OK, as I felt that the Accumulator was "Tired" after 18 years of sitting there just "Accumulating-nitrogen leaks" I just changed it for a brand new one.
Will give it a run after rush hour is all over and folks are home watching rubbish TV and eating junk-food. Next is the ECU (awaiting delivery).
**UPDATE**
Did a test drive with the new accumulator. Brake Booster pump now only runs for every 3rd/4th braking operation instead of after every braking operation.
But ABS & Traction lights still on etc.
Click to expand...
old post i know but did you ever fix it and if so what was the fix ?
 
DanClarke said:
No, it was all OK after the replacement of the accumulator and a new Alternator. :)
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my abs and tc lights came on again a few months back so swapped the n/s/f sensor again last Saturday - both lights still on, so then I also changed the nsf cv joint, teeth were all ok on the old one - both lights still on :(
 
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Datatek said:
So the nsf is not the problem:rolleyes:
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i've already done the osf cv joint and abs sensor a few months back and the new fault showed up as nsf short to another sensor which according to Marty is a generic error meaning either faulty sensor or another broken reluctor ring. Need a proper nanocom diagnosis again - Kermit ?
 
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alanlucas said:
i've already done the osf cv joint and abs sensor a few months back and the fault showed up as nsf short to another sensor which according to Marty is a generic error meaning either faulty sensor or another broken reluctor ring. Need a proper nanocom diagnosis again - Kermit ?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, it can also be a duff ECU but diagnostics are the only way forward.
 
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