ABS sensors

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Hey, if your going to just replace the ring then you won't need the new boot and CV joint. Is the cv joint in good condition?
Just be careful not to deform the abs ring when you fit it.
Good luck;)
 
What I should have said is The other side is needing a new boot at the same time as the ring. The end of the shaft where the seat is for the ring has lost about 1/2 mm to corrosion , so no chance of distortion, quite the opposite I'm afraid but not as bad as the rears, it was touch an go whether too much corrosion might involve getting a new outer joint.
The rings come withe bearing fit which secures them to the cleaned up shaft , yes the outer cv joint I am dealing with at present is ok, but you need the hole shaft out and standing vertical in the vice to fit the ring properly.If you look back in this thread you will see the state it is in.
 
Logically, if you have a doubt about the abs ring staying, then don't fit it.
If you need new boots and abs rings then just renew the CV joint.
Then the abs ring, CV boot and the joint will be all new together.
Sometimes trying to save pennies can go beyond logic and will bring its own problems!! I do know where you are coming from but if it's broke.... It's broke.:confused:;)
 
Something still not right!
After complete rebuild of ABS System , sensors and abs rings there is something thhe system is not happy with . Iget the three amigos , clear down faults turn the engine and system down , turn on again fine . Then go back in twenty minutes and everything at fault again. Its like all the ecus are not speaking , faults if I can recollect are front right and left signal plausibility. rear left plausibility, Ebv , abs ecu , can bus , suspension etc . so is it needing a learning.Can clear as I say and everything fine.
 
You would think it would be consistent though.
That sensor fault was certainly there before , going by the state of the sensors and rings. So now that they have been addressed , why do they come back , and can be cleared. Can this corrosion be seen if t,he unit was stripped ?
 
@martyuk has fixed quite a few of the later ABS ECUs. The 4W TC ones. They seem more suspectible to faults than the earlier ones ... which might explain why they cost 10 times as much for essentially the same thing.
 
Well stripped down the wiring from main connector on abs module and while I was doing this thought , there is nothing wrong wth this , tested continuity on earth wires to ground on and off the grounding and absoloutly fine.Put it all back together and same amigos.
As I cleared the abs system codes or got near them on the diagnostic they disappeared, crafty I thought , went for small field run , all well. I then went a little faster in a short burst and the lights came back on , and I noticed that the speedo was showing only 15 mph , definitely was faster than that !! So as someone has said on here, should I be using genuine sensors ? Why do companies sell cheaper versions if they are going to give problems I ask , if this is the cause then I am looking at more money , assuming its the left rear that monitors speed. All four sensors are the cheaper versions by the way , I know that someone has said that I should buy genuine , but until I can prove they are to blame , I am reluctant.
 
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alfapat said:
Well stripped down the wiring from main connector on abs module and while I was doing this thought , there is nothing wrong wth this , tested continuity on earth wires to ground on and off the grounding and absoloutly fine.Put it all back together and same amigos.
As I cleared the abs system codes or got near them on the diagnostic they disappeared, crafty I thought , went for small field run , all well. I then went a little faster in a short burst and the lights came back on , and I noticed that the speedo was showing only 15 mph , definitely was faster than that !! So as someone has said on here, should I be using genuine sensors ? Why do companies sell cheaper versions if they are going to give problems I ask , if this is the cause then I am looking at more money , assuming its the left rear that monitors speed. All four sensors are the cheaper versions by the way , I know that someone has said that I should buy genuine , but until I can prove they are to blame , I am reluctant.
Click to expand...
Someone else posted recently that cheap sensors didn't work, fitting OEM cured the problems.
 
alfapat said:
Well stripped down the wiring from main connector on abs module and while I was doing this thought , there is nothing wrong wth this , tested continuity on earth wires to ground on and off the grounding and absoloutly fine.Put it all back together and same amigos.
As I cleared the abs system codes or got near them on the diagnostic they disappeared, crafty I thought , went for small field run , all well. I then went a little faster in a short burst and the lights came back on , and I noticed that the speedo was showing only 15 mph , definitely was faster than that !! So as someone has said on here, should I be using genuine sensors ? Why do companies sell cheaper versions if they are going to give problems I ask , if this is the cause then I am looking at more money , assuming its the left rear that monitors speed. All four sensors are the cheaper versions by the way , I know that someone has said that I should buy genuine , but until I can prove they are to blame , I am reluctant.
Click to expand...

They sell them because people buy them. It costs more to send the Chinese tat back than bin it. There is so much fake stuff out there now that finding genuine parts is a real headache. Sometimes you get lucky.

It averages all 4 sensors for the speed. If one is a long way out it'll start throwing faults. When you think of the load on the tyre and then think cornering, bumps, differences in tyre pressure etc. then the calculation from loaded radius to mph is straightforward but 1 reading is never going to cut it. This makes interesting reading (?!) https://www.tut.fi/ms/muo/vert/11_tyre_as_car_component/handling_input_rolling_radius.htm

The circumference will be roughly 2316mm if this calculator is right for a 255/55/R18 tyre: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

There are 1,609,344 mm in a mile so that's about 695 tyre revolutions per mile. There are maybe 60 teeth on the ABS reluctor ring? So that's 41, 693 pulses per mile. So if you get 41, 693 pulses in an hour then you must be doing 1 mile an hour? Or 12 pulses a second ... except that cannot be right. Sure @wammers said it was something like 6000 pulses a minute? Where have I f*cked up?!
 
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Yes all wheels the same and pressures.
I wander if there is a transmission speed sensor, upseting the communications.
My last thought is that before I spend on OEM sensors I might get a dealer to do a one time diagnostic, then I will know for sure, but not finished yet !
 
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