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Only if all you wanted to do was sync the EMS code. Nanocom will do that anyway.
Last edited:
4.6 Running lean pinking
- Thread starter remedave
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Only if all you wanted to do was sync the EMS code. Nanocom will do that anyway.
remedave
New Member
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i believe thats all i need to do right ? it doesn't need any codes entered etc etc just alarm sync
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EMS code has nothing to do with the alarm. It is a security code stored in the ECM and written into the BECM. When ignition is turned on the BECM compares the code in the ECM with the code written in itself. If both are the same it activates the ECM and the engine will start, if they are not the same the ECM is not active and the engine won't start. The Syncmate reads the code stored in the ECM and writes it to the BECM. Syncing the security code. When you get a message on your message centre "Engine disabled" THAT is an alarm system function and needs either the fob pressing or the EKA code entering to correct it. The Thor is somewhat different to the diesel and the Gems in EMS respect though. So make sure you get the correct Syncmate if that is what you are going for. Personally if you are keeping the car get a Nanocom it will do everything you will need to do diagnostic wise.
sassanach
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so if you were to replace the "ecu"with one from another car,would a syncmate make it run?
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Yes.
remedave
New Member
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Well back again square 1 ….. after swapping the ECU from the other vehicle…. no difference still the same code,
I can however with the use of nanocom tell you the code also states it is a fault with the sensor/ wiring / and the ECU doesn't recognise the signal
So looks like it the front end off then happy dayz
I can however with the use of nanocom tell you the code also states it is a fault with the sensor/ wiring / and the ECU doesn't recognise the signal
So looks like it the front end off then happy dayz
remedave
New Member
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Wammers
you gave me the wires to check for the ecu and cam and crank etc
Can you please have a look at the diagram or pass it on to me as i may have made a discovery
the blue grey wire from the cam sensor out puts with the ignition on and obviously with the cam i the right position 12v for arguments sake
as i have the ecu out i probed it right next to the ecu connector block same wire only 6.5v
So i connected a wire from the point were i get the full 12v near the alternator to the point at the ecu measure one end of the wire 12v other end ecu end 6.5 v this is as this is all connected up ?!?!?! baffled i started the car up, it ran like a bag of **** with the wire connected but the second i disconnected the jumper wire if was fine
should the ecu receive the full 12v ??? or does this wire go via another component before entering the ECU to reduce the voltage ?? or have i got a slight short in the circuit ???
you gave me the wires to check for the ecu and cam and crank etc
Can you please have a look at the diagram or pass it on to me as i may have made a discovery
the blue grey wire from the cam sensor out puts with the ignition on and obviously with the cam i the right position 12v for arguments sake
as i have the ecu out i probed it right next to the ecu connector block same wire only 6.5v
So i connected a wire from the point were i get the full 12v near the alternator to the point at the ecu measure one end of the wire 12v other end ecu end 6.5 v this is as this is all connected up ?!?!?! baffled i started the car up, it ran like a bag of **** with the wire connected but the second i disconnected the jumper wire if was fine
should the ecu receive the full 12v ??? or does this wire go via another component before entering the ECU to reduce the voltage ?? or have i got a slight short in the circuit ???
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As i said in post 21. PO340 is camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction. Open/short circuit to supply or bad earth. Sensor maybe fine problem is in loom.
Taken from 1999 on diagrams. Brown/pink 12 volt from fuse 28, 20 AMP to pin 3 sensor. Pin 2 on sensor to pin 20 ECU Grey/blue. That will not be 12 volts it will vary subject to signal pulse. Pin 1 on sensor to ground point E1398 via splice S528. Sensor plugs into connector CO176. So if sensor wiring is sound you have a problem beyond that connector. If you have 12 volts to pin three and 6.5 volts to pin 20 ECU i would suggest the problem is the earth to pin 1 from connector CO176. E1398 is located on O/S front wing below front of fuse box.
remedave
New Member
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well i took the liberty to cut the harness out at the ecu end and use a jumper wire from a known good source from the cam sensor
it runs fine with no camshaft error code but won't tick over
after much hook har and many readings
i think i am getting closer it would seem this wire is connected to the idle control valve some how (maybe this is the short) and if the blue grey wire is left removed from the ecu block again it won't tick over and the rev counter doesn't work
i shall swap the idle control valve from my other vehicle
Oh and by the way i tested the power at the ecu end on the other vehicle it showed no drop in power, i am getting excited now i feel like i am getting near to the fault or going round the bend
it runs fine with no camshaft error code but won't tick over
after much hook har and many readings
i think i am getting closer it would seem this wire is connected to the idle control valve some how (maybe this is the short) and if the blue grey wire is left removed from the ecu block again it won't tick over and the rev counter doesn't work
i shall swap the idle control valve from my other vehicle
Oh and by the way i tested the power at the ecu end on the other vehicle it showed no drop in power, i am getting excited now i feel like i am getting near to the fault or going round the bend
remedave
New Member
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your awesome with the quotes i am keeping up but its hard without diagrams i will post picks 2 mins, in the mean time i will check the earth
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I thought you had downloaded RAVE?
remedave
New Member
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Now if i have this right,
in order the first shows the earth i have cleaned up ( this is the one you meant right ?)
the second show the first tap at the cam sensor wire 12v
the third shows the second tap at the cam wire 6.5v with the idle control valve plugged in 2.4v with the idle control valve unplugged
I don't know what i done as i was mucking around but when the wires were connected up correctly i has 12v both ends i cleared the codes and started it up she ran like a dream for 20 seconds or so then there was a sudden change and the p0340 code re-appeared so i am on the right track
I have checked the donor vehicle and 12v is achieved at both tap in points
and other things to check ??
in order the first shows the earth i have cleaned up ( this is the one you meant right ?)
the second show the first tap at the cam sensor wire 12v
the third shows the second tap at the cam wire 6.5v with the idle control valve plugged in 2.4v with the idle control valve unplugged
I don't know what i done as i was mucking around but when the wires were connected up correctly i has 12v both ends i cleared the codes and started it up she ran like a dream for 20 seconds or so then there was a sudden change and the p0340 code re-appeared so i am on the right track
I have checked the donor vehicle and 12v is achieved at both tap in points
and other things to check ??
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Electrical trouble shooting manuals. That is where the diagrams are.
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Do you have continuity in the wire to E1398 from pin 1 on CO176.
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Sorry correction to fuse. It is fed by fuse 26 NOT fuse 28.
remedave
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yes the fuse feed is fine
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- Preston Lancs.
You know where E1398 is CO176 connector is behind crank pulley near oil filter or at least that is where it is shown on location data photos.
