Disco 1 300tdi won’t start

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Bruce2020

Bruce2020

Member
Full Member
Posts
52
Location
Worthing
New to the forum so hi and help!
My disco 1 turns over but refuses to start.
She has been off the road for about 6 months due to welding being required.
I have started her from time to time and let her run but the battery gave up in the end a few weeks ago . I replaced it last week but now it won’t start just turns over.
Things done so far.
1. Replaced fuel stop solenoid
2. Replaced Relay
3. Checked all fuses next to Relay.
4. Sprayed everything in WD40.
I’ve ordered a new Leak off spill pipe rail too. I’ve done this as she was becoming a slow starter even before being off the road. I’ve read that air can get into the system if this is all a bit knackered.
Anyway just after some comment/advice.
Thanks in advance

Leo
 
Check the fuel tank sender unit, the pipes corrode and allow air into the pickup for the fuel pump,
If you haven’t already I would change the fuel filter, fill with new fuel before putting on will make bleeding it much Easier,
 
Europa486 said:
Check the fuel tank sender unit, the pipes corrode and allow air into the pickup for the fuel pump,
If you haven’t already I would change the fuel filter, fill with new fuel before putting on will make bleeding it much Easier,
Click to expand...
Cheers, the cap for the sender unit is quite corroded which would make sense. The fuel in tank is several months old , I’ll change the filter too and add fresh fuel to prime as suggested
Thanks a lot
 
If all else fails re all the above, you could try disconnecting the fuel pump completely and fitting a gravity tank to supply fuel to the injection pump.
If it still doesn't run right, then you can take it from there.
Best of luck.:)
 
Disco1BFG said:
Have you actually got power to the stop solenoid on the FIP ?

If your D1 is a manual - could be the spider playing up .... Battery going flat might have the remotes out of sync ...
Click to expand...
Disco1BFG said:
Have you actually got power to the stop solenoid on the FIP ?

If your D1 is a manual - could be the spider playing up .... Battery going flat might have the remotes out of sync ...
Click to expand...
She’s an Auto 98 Japanese import. Not sure if the spider still applies? But it does have immobiliser.
As far the power goes, I ran a circuit tester to it and got the light so all good I think.
Thanks for your advice
 
If it was running ok a little while back then I would assume that the engine is in reasonable condition with sufficient compression. Yours being an auto it has an electronic fuel pump known as EDC, you say that you have replaced the battery so I am assuming that you have fitted one that is powerful enough for the job as if it isn't spinning it over fast enough that could definitely be a problem with an EDC model, however, if your battery is spinning it over well and it still isn't starting then my gut feeling is that you are getting air into the fuel system somewhere and the most likely culprit has already been suggested by europa486, where the metal pipes go into the plastic housing on top of the sender unit, another weak area is the sedimenter which is positioned on the chassis above the rear axle behind your off side rear wheel. Good luck and don't forget to keep us updated.
 
There may well be air entering as already pointed out but have you actually tried bleeding the system or opening the bleed sctew at the top of the filter to check for diesel, or bubbles?
 
DiscoRay said:
If it was running ok a little while back then I would assume that the engine is in reasonable condition with sufficient compression. Yours being an auto it has an electronic fuel pump known as EDC, you say that you have replaced the battery so I am assuming that you have fitted one that is powerful enough for the job as if it isn't spinning it over fast enough that could definitely be a problem with an EDC model, however, if your battery is spinning it over well and it still isn't starting then my gut feeling is that you are getting air into the fuel system somewhere and the most likely culprit has already been suggested by europa486, where the metal pipes go into the plastic housing on top of the sender unit, another weak area is the sedimenter which is positioned on the chassis above the rear axle behind your off side rear wheel. Good luck and don't forget to keep us updated.
Click to expand...
Yep it’s a good engine and pulls well etc. Yes EDC as you say, the battery has plenty of punch with a good CCA.
I’m going to remove the cap for the fuel sender tomorrow which will involve an angle grinder due to rusted on bolts which speak volumes and back up what you and Europa486 suggested.
I forgot about the sedimenter , can this be cleaned out or is it better to replace it?
Thanks very much and I’ll keep you posted
 
Kenbo said:
There may well be air entering as already pointed out but have you actually tried bleeding the system or opening the bleed sctew at the top of the filter to check for diesel, or bubbles?
Click to expand...
I have yes. The diesel flowed out the bleed screw readily without any bubbles. I’m going to investigate the fuel sender tomorrow
Thanks for your advice
 
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
 
I had a similar problem a few years back.

fuel sender pipe corrosion
Injector return pipes

In the end it was a pin hole in the fuel like from back to front along the chassis.

I just replaced with a flexible rubber new line and cable tied it to the existing line, new connections at both ends and it ran sweet as a nut
 
Bruce2020 said:
She’s an Auto 98 Japanese import. Not sure if the spider still applies? But it does have immobiliser.
As far the power goes, I ran a circuit tester to it and got the light so all good I think.
Thanks for your advice
Click to expand...

Spider does not apply to the auto - still has immobiliser. Most likely air in the system .... How much noise does your FIP make IOEO ?

What sort of circuit tester ? IMO, make sure you test any circuit with an equivalent draw - you might have voltage, but due bad connection, insufficient current to, for example, power the solenoid ...

Probably already mentioned, but how full is the fuel filter ? half way is almost a dead cert for a duff lift pump - but check the fuel tank sender unit and connections first ...

I have an auto myself, ( in my avatar ), but de - EDC'd due the failure of #4 injector .... :rolleyes:

Sedimenter is easy to clean out - should come to bits relatively easily - beware the plastic drain plug - mine broke almost before I touched it - M8 SS bolt sorted that problem, and makes servicing much easier anyway :) deffo leave it in place - FIP's are expensive - 'specially EDC ones! .... and look after #4 injector ....;)

Check engine light completing self test Ok ?

Is the new battery ok ? I needed one end of last year - bought a Varta 092, but it was DOA o_O:eek::confused: - beware the so called "standard" battery for a D1 is supposed to be 54Ah, and ~450CCA (!!) FFS! - this would be funny but for the fact that it's worthless ....
 
DiscoRay said:
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
Click to expand...

I personally think it was a cost cutting exercise by LR deleting the sedimenter from the Defender,
Years ago I accidentally poured a complete can of wynns Radiator sealant into my fuel tank because they where the same purple colour as the Fuel injection cleaner,
I didn’t realise until the last drop went in :mad: But the sedimenter caught every bit of it over a few days,
When I change my fuel filter I cut it open out of curiosity and found it remarkably clean,
In answer to the OP you will need the two O rings for the sedimenter, the body is held together with a 7/16 headed bolt and obviously use a container to catch any leaking fuel, inside at the top of the sedimenter body is a plastic umbrella pull this of and give it a good clean,
 
Bruce2020 said:
I have yes. The diesel flowed out the bleed screw readily without any bubbles. I’m going to investigate the fuel sender tomorrow
Thanks for your advice
Click to expand...

Surely if there's a flow of diesel without air bubbles then fuel supply isn't necessarily the problem. If you crack open a supply to one of the lnjectors is there a flow? I'm thinking of one of my Discos, immobiliser problem where the supply is good but can't get past the pump. (Mine also edc)
 
DiscoRay said:
If it was running ok a little while back then I would assume that the engine is in reasonable condition with sufficient compression. Yours being an auto it has an electronic fuel pump known as EDC, you say that you have replaced the battery so I am assuming that you have fitted one that is powerful enough for the job as if it isn't spinning it over fast enough that could definitely be a problem with an EDC model, however, if your battery is spinning it over well and it still isn't starting then my gut feeling is that you are getting air into the fuel system somewhere and the most likely culprit has already been suggested by europa486, where the metal pipes go into the plastic housing on top of the sender unit, another weak area is the sedimenter which is positioned on the chassis above the rear axle behind your off side rear wheel. Good luck and don't forget to keep us updated.
Click to expand...
DiscoRay said:
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
Click to expand...
DiscoRay said:
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
Click to expand...
DiscoRay said:
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
Click to expand...
DiscoRay said:
The sedimenter can and should be cleaned from time to time although many people just bypass them as it is debatable how beneficial they are, they were fitted to the Disco but not the Defender which does bring into question there validity.
Click to expand...
I must admit I’ve never been near it I have no excuse for that. I will definitely investigate it though. I’ve looked online and they’re about £25 from Bearmach, thinking it might be better just replace it for now but I hear what what you’re saying regarding the sedimenter not being fitted to the Defender. Speaks volumes!
 
MikeDISCO said:
I had a similar problem a few years back.

fuel sender pipe corrosion
Injector return pipes

In the end it was a pin hole in the fuel like from back to front along the chassis.

I just replaced with a flexible rubber new line and cable tied it to the existing line, new connections at both ends and it ran sweet as a nut
Click to expand...
It does seem to be a needle in a haystack kinda job this one. the injector return pipes seem in pretty good condition but I’ve got a new spill rail on the way.
The fuel sender seems to be coming up a lot from everyone’s comments so that’s being tackled next. Hopefully Monday now as family etc have stopped me getting near it.
Thanks for your help
 
Disco1BFG said:
Spider does not apply to the auto - still has immobiliser. Most likely air in the system .... How much noise does your FIP make IOEO ?

What sort of circuit tester ? IMO, make sure you test any circuit with an equivalent draw - you might have voltage, but due bad connection, insufficient current to, for example, power the solenoid ...

Probably already mentioned, but how full is the fuel filter ? half way is almost a dead cert for a duff lift pump - but check the fuel tank sender unit and connections first ...

I have an auto myself, ( in my avatar ), but de - EDC'd due the failure of #4 injector .... :rolleyes:

Sedimenter is easy to clean out - should come to bits relatively easily - beware the plastic drain plug - mine broke almost before I touched it - M8 SS bolt sorted that problem, and makes servicing much easier anyway :) deffo leave it in place - FIP's are expensive - 'specially EDC ones! .... and look after #4 injector ....;)

Check engine light completing self test Ok ?

Is the new battery ok ? I needed one end of last year - bought a Varta 092, but it was DOA o_O:eek::confused: - beware the so called "standard" battery for a D1 is supposed to be 54Ah, and ~450CCA (!!) FFS! - this would be funny but for the fact that it's worthless ....
Click to expand...
No spider, good to know. It all sounds fine be honest. The usual buzz when you turn on the first click of the ignition.
It’s just a basic earth and touch pen type with a light. What type would you suggest or method of testing?
Yeah the fuel filter is full and bled but I’ve got a Delphi on order so I can get some fresh diesel in there etc. Grinding the sender cap of on Monday hopefully due to rusty bolts which might say it all!
How easy is it to de EDC? I’ve always worried about number 4 . I’ve you can have them reconditioned.
I’m going to treat her to a fresh sedimenter as I’ve not been near it which I have no excuse for.
All the lights go out thankfully no worries there.
As far my battery goes it’s a 069 I think and has 660 cca! So happy days there. I know what you mean, the recommended battery power is rubbish. I had a 550cca before which struggled especially on those cold mornings .
Thanks very much for all your suggestions, I wish I’d been on here years ago . The response is great!
 
Europa486 said:
I personally think it was a cost cutting exercise by LR deleting the sedimenter from the Defender,
Years ago I accidentally poured a complete can of wynns Radiator sealant into my fuel tank because they where the same purple colour as the Fuel injection cleaner,
I didn’t realise until the last drop went in :mad: But the sedimenter caught every bit of it over a few days,
When I change my fuel filter I cut it open out of curiosity and found it remarkably clean,
In answer to the OP you will need the two O rings for the sedimenter, the body is held together with a 7/16 headed bolt and obviously use a container to catch any leaking fuel, inside at the top of the sedimenter body is a plastic umbrella pull this of and give it a good clean,
Click to expand...
Cheers. I’m definitely keeping it!
Like you say if a mistake is made which is easily done it’s there as backup
 
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