Disco 1 300tdi won’t start

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Surely if there's a flow of diesel without air bubbles then fuel supply isn't necessarily the problem. If you crack open a supply to one of the lnjectors is there a flow? I'm thinking of one of my Discos, immobiliser problem where the supply is good but can't get past the pump. (Mine also edc)
I’ll have a look . I’ve got my trusty injector puller on standby!
What was the immobiliser problem you had and do find them to be a pain? cheers
 
What type would you suggest or method of testing?

Ideally, a cct test needs to draw a similar current to the rated load on that circuit - a test light is great for basic cct integrity - but might not draw enough current to find the real issue - The LED test lights are notorious for this, needing microamps to illuminate :rolleyes: You'd need to know the size of the lamp, and thus the current draw it demands..

My preference is to use lamps of various sizes - for example, a headlamp - given each filament will draw about 4.6A - and a 21W bulb will draw about 1.7A ....so, if your solenoid circuit will run a 21W bulb without issue, then it is fine.... ( it's a great use for headlamps with one blown filament ... :))

How easy is it to de EDC?

Change the FIP and the injectors - BUT, you loose a lot of power in so doing, so you "need" to fit a full width intercooler and then tune the thing properly ( or better, get someone who has the proper kit, and get them to do it ) - it's a last resort really - but, to me, who hates electronics and modern vehicle "reliability" - it was the only way forward..... I now have 146HP and no electronics ....

I’ve always worried about number 4

Well, take as much care of it as you can o_O - be careful near the wires etc .... mine let the smoke out, so I had no option :rolleyes:.

I’ve you can have them reconditioned.

Ah - technically yes.... When mine died, about 5 years ago, I was quoted over £1K to build a new injector !! ....:eek:
 
When I removed the EDC from mine I used a refurbished FIP from Bosch and Bosch injectors. Replacing old the old parts with new, if they are good quality, and retiming it properly will go a long way to overcoming any power loss. I have not noticed any loss on mine and it is now using less fuel. The only problem is the puff of black smoke on starting with a non EDC pump.
 
What was the immobiliser problem you had and do find them to be a pain? cheers[/QUOTE said:
My problem is intermittent, not fuel, so I'm almost certain that it's the immobiliser. Never resolved. I just keep it running on the odd occasion when I need it.
Again, I think you must check for fuel at the injectors. Air in the system could well be an issue but if you have a good diesel flow the engine should start after bleeding. If not then it may be electronic
 
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2869A1A2-5A02-4D8B-868C-B09BAA89C418.jpeg Thought I’d send you this , reckon it could be the culprit. Hopefully getting the new in this weekend
2869A1A2-5A02-4D8B-868C-B09BAA89C418.jpeg
Ideally, a cct test needs to draw a similar current to the rated load on that circuit - a test light is great for basic cct integrity - but might not draw enough current to find the real issue - The LED test lights are notorious for this, needing microamps to illuminate :rolleyes: You'd need to know the size of the lamp, and thus the current draw it demands..

My preference is to use lamps of various sizes - for example, a headlamp - given each filament will draw about 4.6A - and a 21W bulb will draw about 1.7A ....so, if your solenoid circuit will run a 21W bulb without issue, then it is fine.... ( it's a great use for headlamps with one blown filament ... :))



Change the FIP and the injectors - BUT, you loose a lot of power in so doing, so you "need" to fit a full width intercooler and then tune the thing properly ( or better, get someone who has the proper kit, and get them to do it ) - it's a last resort really - but, to me, who hates electronics and modern vehicle "reliability" - it was the only way forward..... I now have 146HP and no electronics ....



Well, take as much care of it as you can o_O - be careful near the wires etc .... mine let the smoke out, so I had no option :rolleyes:.



Ah - technically yes.... When mine died, about 5 years ago, I was quoted over £1K to build a new injector !! ....:eek:
 
902746D7-19A0-4DA5-A415-60E471A5F74B.jpeg
Check the fuel tank sender unit, the pipes corrode and allow air into the pickup for the fuel pump,
If you haven’t already I would change the fuel filter, fill with new fuel before putting on will make bleeding it much Easier,

Thought I’d keep you informed. Exhibit A . New sender on its way. Looks like a firm culprit
 
If it was running ok a little while back then I would assume that the engine is in reasonable condition with sufficient compression. Yours being an auto it has an electronic fuel pump known as EDC, you say that you have replaced the battery so I am assuming that you have fitted one that is powerful enough for the job as if it isn't spinning it over fast enough that could definitely be a problem with an EDC model, however, if your battery is spinning it over well and it still isn't starting then my gut feeling is that you are getting air into the fuel system somewhere and the most likely culprit has already been suggested by europa486, where the metal pipes go into the plastic housing on top of the sender unit, another weak area is the sedimenter which is positioned on the chassis above the rear axle behind your off side rear wheel. Good luck and don't forget to keep us updated.
Just keeping you informed as requested. Looks like a firm culprit to me. New sender on order. Cheers
 

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