300 Tdi Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
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When I checked mine over a series of weeks I was putting in about 250ml - 300ml approximately every 300 miles. Which is effectively 1ml per mile. That was about two turbos and an oil return pipe or two ago. However, I can't see it being much better now. When I took the head off, as part of the investigations, the carbon build up on the piston crowns was quite scary. I'm reluctant to drive mine too much because of this. I know they're affectionately referred to as oil burners, but I don't think they are that good at burning engine oil effectively. Probably too many additives in it.
It was so thick I was wondering how I didn't have valve impressions stamped in to it. Made me think I should have a thinner head gasket on. I erred on the side of caution when I did the rebuild.
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I need to use the Landy tomorrow morning so took the new down pipe back off and put the old one back on. Pointless filling a new CAT with soot
It's all safely wrapped up in it's plastic bag, ready for when the turbo is sorted
It's all safely wrapped up in it's plastic bag, ready for when the turbo is sorted
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
I've been using the Landy every day for the last few weeks as I'm clearing out grey squirrels from some woods about 2 miles away. You have to go down a very rough track and then across a few fields so the focus is a non starter. Yesterday and today were warm enough for me to come back across the fields with the window down. The fumes from the burning oil were awful, so it has turned my attention back to trying to find the problem.
All I can think to do is go through everything I've already done again. Perhaps checking things differently to see if I can fine the cause.
So, working from the premise that it must be related to either too much oil or too high an oil pressure going in. Or, a restriction of the oil leaving via the return.
Things I've done and need to go through again:
If anyone can suggest how I should be testing any of the above I'd also be very grateful if you let me know. I think I need to check things in a different way.
I've still got the options of fitting a pressure regulator (which I'm pretty sure will reduce the volumetric flow too) Although I know I shouldn't need one. And, taking it to the local Indie to see if they can deduce what is wrong.
All ideas welcomed. (fingers crossed emoji)
All I can think to do is go through everything I've already done again. Perhaps checking things differently to see if I can fine the cause.
So, working from the premise that it must be related to either too much oil or too high an oil pressure going in. Or, a restriction of the oil leaving via the return.
Things I've done and need to go through again:
- Oil return pipe
- Piston ring blow by
- Valve seat and stem blow by
- Breather pipes/system
- Vacuum pump leaking or vac pipe leaking
- Servo leaking
- Catalytic converter blocked
If anyone can suggest how I should be testing any of the above I'd also be very grateful if you let me know. I think I need to check things in a different way.
I've still got the options of fitting a pressure regulator (which I'm pretty sure will reduce the volumetric flow too) Although I know I shouldn't need one. And, taking it to the local Indie to see if they can deduce what is wrong.
All ideas welcomed. (fingers crossed emoji)
EeEk
Well-Known Member
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You will get more oil out of the turbo outlet with no pipes attached....venturi effect will suck it out as there is massive airflow and no boost pressure to hold it back.
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- 11,023
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- North of the Wall
That's an interesting thought. When the outlet pipe is attached it gets lined with oil though
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Thought I's add an update as I'm vaguely hopeful. In fact, probably more hopeful than I've been before in trying to sort the oil through turbo issue.
I've replaced the vacuum pump. I did the foot hard on pedal and start her up test and the pedal didn't shift. On the way down a very steep farm track I switched the engine off and it had sod all effect on the brakes. Having said that, the brakes seemed to be working ok. I certainly wasn't having to stand on them or anything like that. However, I thought I might have gradually got used to them as they deteriorated. I took the pipe off the servo and it had a bit of suck to it, but not loads. So, a new Unipump Vac Pump fitted and there was a much stronger suck on the end of the vac pipe. The brakes were just the same though What's making me hopeful is that it's stopped smelling. I can drive with the window down without the burning oil fumes getting drawn inside. Even bent down by the exhaust I can't smell anything other than standard exhaust fumes. I've only done about 270 miles since I swapped the pump, but the oil level still looks good. So, it's fingers crossed the new vac pump has sorted it.
I've replaced the vacuum pump. I did the foot hard on pedal and start her up test and the pedal didn't shift. On the way down a very steep farm track I switched the engine off and it had sod all effect on the brakes. Having said that, the brakes seemed to be working ok. I certainly wasn't having to stand on them or anything like that. However, I thought I might have gradually got used to them as they deteriorated. I took the pipe off the servo and it had a bit of suck to it, but not loads. So, a new Unipump Vac Pump fitted and there was a much stronger suck on the end of the vac pipe. The brakes were just the same though
What's making me hopeful is that it's stopped smelling. I can drive with the window down without the burning oil fumes getting drawn inside. Even bent down by the exhaust I can't smell anything other than standard exhaust fumes. I've only done about 270 miles since I swapped the pump, but the oil level still looks good. So, it's fingers crossed the new vac pump has sorted it. 
Britcyclerider
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- 211
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- Dorset, UK
Fingers and toes crossed for you here. Let's all hope you've cracked it as I can imagine how you have felt at times. After a three year rebuild of my 90, I took it for a first drive a few weeks ago and suffered massive oily smoking, which didn't clear much after a run. I felt pretty miserable for a few days thinking turbo, piston rings etc. until I found two of the valve stem seals had popped off the guide and crept up the valve stem. Easy fix but I know how disheartening it can be not knowing. Hats off to you for your perseverance!
steve2286w
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Good luck that would be a nice end to a very long story. It does sound a but like a duff servo now though and that will be something the mot man picks up as he would test it as you did
raywin
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Great news, and well deserved, you have certainly put the effort in.
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Cheers, mate. That's very kind. Fingers and toes crossed here two
The strange thing (one of the strange things) is that it's been through two or three MOT's during all of this. The brakes have passed and it's also passed on the emissions smoke test
It might be that the issue started as the kinked aftermarket oil return pipe, but then the vac pump went too. New and original return pipe fitted, but vac pump broken at this stage and then perhaps the servo has gone too? No idea Having said that, it's still early days on whether it's fixed or not Cheers, mate.
I've been close to throwing in the towel a few times
raywin
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Just wondered where you bought the turbo, my td5 is a bit flat and I wonder if the turbo is getting worn, I am considering replacing the core, looking around some suppliers add very strict conditions to their warranty conditions, making it very hard to meet their terms.Cheers, mate. That's very kind. Fingers and toes crossed here two
The strange thing (one of the strange things) is that it's been through two or three MOT's during all of this. The brakes have passed and it's also passed on the emissions smoke test
Cheers, mate.
I've been close to throwing in the towel a few times
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Evening, mate. The genuine Barrett one I bought from Turner Engineering. Then I replaced the core of that turbo and I bought the core from Fourby.
EDIT
I've still got the genuine core as there's probably sod all wrong with it
raywin
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Yes I thought how much you tried on that engine, hope its still going well.Evening, mate. The genuine Barrett one I bought from Turner Engineering. Then I replaced the core of that turbo and I bought the core from Fourby.
EDIT
I've still got the genuine core as there's probably sod all wrong with it
Mine is a little bit flat, but picks up suddenly when the boost reads about 12 psi, but this is being measured at the bypass solonid pipe, probably slightly less in the manifold.
I wondered if a turbo overhaul would help.
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I know nothing about TD5's!
Seems odd that there isn't a response from the engine as the air pressure is building up to 12psi and then there is at 12psi. Could there be a fuel delivery issue below 12psi?
The 300Tdi turbo was pretty easy to take apart and swap the core. No idea about the TD5, but it might be a relatively inexpensive thing to try.
I think things are going well. The vac pump change might have done it. It's certainly stopped smelling as though it's burning oil. I need to get more miles done to see if the oil level goes down.
