neilly
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300 Tdi Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
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JM obviously thinks so.
neilly
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jamesmartin
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how much oil are you using
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Consumption has gone down since I replaced the original outflow pipe, which I'd fitted with a kink in it. But the exhaust still stinks. I haven't done a litres/miles test for a while now. When bad it was averaging a ml per mile. It must be better than that now, but still not great. You can see from the pictures how much is getting blown through in about a mile return trip out of the village and back.
jamesmartin
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is it visible smoke when warm
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No, not really.
jamesmartin
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wouldnt worry too much about it then
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It's too much James. Plus it smells and my pistons will be getting all carboned up
again.
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What are the different things that could be happening if the smoke is visible or not?
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I'm waiting for the new swivel pin bearings to arrive and the Landy is up on axle stands. So, I'm thinking I might take the turbo off and wash it through with brake cleaner. If the outflow pipe is now ok, then all I can think is that the seal rings on the turbo aren't working because of the caramelised oil holding them open? The last turbo I took off is absolutely lined (compressor side) with thick tar like caramelised oil. I can only think that it's possible that the oil can caramelise right back to the seal rings and create a poor seal allowing oil to blow by in to the induction system? I'm thinking if I was it through with brake cleaner a few times, it might enable a proper seal again?
ifloochies
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It honestly does bother me to see that you have to go back and forth with this oil consumption issue after all this while.....turbos are usually very hard-wearing components and even hold up on knackered engines which haven't seen half the love yours has. By all means, pull it off one more time and wash it through if you feel you have to, but after that, I would suggest you don't let your OCDs OCD get the better of the situation and just enjoy your hardwork whiles driving it, keeping an eye on your oil level from time to time, like you would on a land rover with an oil leak.
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It is a bit OCD, but I also don't want to be worrying about forgetting to check the oil and it running low. Also, it smells a lot when your alongside pedestrians and lingers in the door alcove etc. Plus, having taken the head off the amount of carbon build up is a worry.
So turbo is off and been flushed through with brake cleaner. Put a grommet in the Inlet and filled it from the oil outlet. Spun the rotor a lot. It's now in the conservatory drying out. New swivel pin bearings arrived today. Weather permitting it should all be back together tomorrow.
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Another new outflow pipe has arrived. I've still got a lot of oil in the induction system, so turbo wash hasn't done much.
This is a Bearmach one though I'm sure they're all made by the same place in china! You never know, it might be a better fit and allow straight through flow.
If not I could cut the pipe bit out and get some bigger bore pipe to fit on to the two 'brass' ends.
This is a Bearmach one though I'm sure they're all made by the same place in china! You never know, it might be a better fit and allow straight through flow.
If not I could cut the pipe bit out and get some bigger bore pipe to fit on to the two 'brass' ends.
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Fitted another new turbo oil outflow pipe this afternoon.
This is a picture looking down the return to sump joint. No obstructions there.
Put a few threads on the bottom union and the flange to turbo looks like this.
You've got to force it hard to bend it under then it's a bugger to get the gasket in. So, I fit this end first.
This leaves the bottom union misaligned like this.
Forcing the end of the pipe in to the union leaves it sitting at an angle.
As you tighten the nut down it straightens the pipe in to the union, but twists and kinks the pipe as it squares the joint up.
Anyway, this one seems to be a better fit, with less kinking of the pipe. Fingers crossed, as it gets hot, it doesn't soften and kink even more.
This is a picture looking down the return to sump joint. No obstructions there.
Put a few threads on the bottom union and the flange to turbo looks like this.
You've got to force it hard to bend it under then it's a bugger to get the gasket in. So, I fit this end first.
This leaves the bottom union misaligned like this.
Forcing the end of the pipe in to the union leaves it sitting at an angle.
As you tighten the nut down it straightens the pipe in to the union, but twists and kinks the pipe as it squares the joint up.
Anyway, this one seems to be a better fit, with less kinking of the pipe. Fingers crossed, as it gets hot, it doesn't soften and kink even more.
Real bugger to see you've still got the oil consumption. Did you ever fit an oil catch can to see how much the crankcase is venting in order to rule it out?
Having broken my old PC and then lost my login details, enough time has passed I got around to putting a new cartridge in my 300 as well - had the same problem where the new return didn't line up particularly well, solved it by clocking the cartridge a small ways toward the block until both feed and return fitted better. You need some decent circlip pliers for the compressor side but the turbine side is just bolts, just remember to disconnect the wastegate actuator before trying to undo either side or it'll pinch the housing against the impeller / compressor, took about 30 mins start to finish (having put it together in the shed just before so no rotten fasteners).
Having broken my old PC and then lost my login details, enough time has passed I got around to putting a new cartridge in my 300 as well - had the same problem where the new return didn't line up particularly well, solved it by clocking the cartridge a small ways toward the block until both feed and return fitted better. You need some decent circlip pliers for the compressor side but the turbine side is just bolts, just remember to disconnect the wastegate actuator before trying to undo either side or it'll pinch the housing against the impeller / compressor, took about 30 mins start to finish (having put it together in the shed just before so no rotten fasteners).
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I'd cleaned the intercooler to inlet manifold of oil and checked it again last night and there was oil back in it. The exhaust doesn't smell as much though, so a slight improvement.
James Martin suggested rotating the cartridge. I wasn't keen on splitting a new and warranted turbo. Looks like I'll be giving it a go. Did it affect how easy it was to fit the HP oil inlet pipe. My thoughts were with that fitting correctly the cartridge must be in the correct orientation?
The inlet hose is much more flexible than the return, don't remember it being a problem, looking at your photos i'd say the inlet feed hole should be at 11:30 - 12 o'clock ish rather than the 12:30 it's at currently. i'll have a look under my bonnet later to remind myself
