300 Tdi Rebuild

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Al2O3 said:
Just took the pipe off the top of the cyclone and stuck my finger in it.
View attachment 162936
Hmm, I wonder if I cleaned that pipe? Not 100% sue, but I think I did. If I did, I don't think that's looking good. Something else to investigate :rolleyes:
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I believe having trace amounts of oil in the plumbing of the cyclone breather is quite normal. As said, inasmuch as it serves to separate oil from the crankcase gases, oil mist will leave condense in parts and leave signs of oil as you have there.
Just a thought, but have you checked if your valve stem seals are still seated?
On my 200tdi, whiles setting valve lash one time, I found that three of the stem seals had detached from their seats and were floating with the valves they were supposed to be sealing.
At the time, I put down down to overboost conditions that were brought on when the hose leading to the wastegate actuator was leaking.
I assumed the extra boost probably popped them off, because all three were on intake valves.
Suffice to say, after reinstalling them, my oil level stayed on mark between services, so I was quite pleased with that find.
All the best with yours, but honestly, I wouldn't worry too much. We followed you through your rebuild from the beginning, and I wouldn't have done anything different from all that you've done.
Cheers
 
This guys explanation of cyclone breather albeit BMW is good , landrover principle is the same to me.

The waste gases loaded with oil enter the larger part of the cyclone and expand letting the oil condense out on the sides and run back down whilst the diaphragm controls how much of the waste gas is drawn out back into the intake , if the diahpragm is not operating all of the waste gases can be drawn into the intake without having a chance for the oil to drop out.
I used to work on oil loaded air compressors and the 1st oil water seperator was basically a large veseel with a baffle plate down centre high flow of air hit baffle plate and the oil and water would run down off it.The rate of flow in the larger vessel was slower allowing the fluids to drop out.
Running a 200DI last 6 years never changed cyclone breather now I understand how it is supposed to work I will order one in.
 
He only started building his engine last year give him some time LOL, I started mine over 3 years ago :eek:) but that's because it is customized, a lot of machining and painting plus I am rebuilding my Landy from top to bottom.

Anyway, on topic with breather, I do not like the idea of sending anything into my air filter and turbo compressor other than pure clean, cool air. I decided that I will use an oil catch/water separator can instead, especially since I will use a larger free flowing air filter encased in a cooler larger air filter box.

I am not sure what the legal pollution requirements are in your specific countries but this is what I will use as shown in pics below, in theory all its venting is air but it might have higher pollution particles in a worn engine. It has a removable baffle for cleaning and a screw on dip stick to check when the oil needs to be disposed of.

The nice thing about this catch can is the fact that you can take off the air filter it has and place it inline with the cyclone breather so the air can be sent into the Landy's air filter while it still traps the oil. This way you are not venting to atmosphere so no pollution to worry about.

It is said that the oil and condensation coming from the rocker cover is contaminated and corrosive so I prefer to add fresh oil into my engine between oil changes and dispose of whats in the catch can.

.
ADD_W1_Catch_Cans_V2_Red.jpg
ADD_W1_Catch_Cans_Baffle_2.jpg
ADD_W1_Catch_Can_Oil.jpg
 
Barbados said:
He only started building his engine last year give him some time LOL, I started mine over 3 years ago :eek:) but that's because it is customized, a lot of machining and painting plus I am rebuilding my Landy from top to bottom.

Anyway, on topic with breather, I do not like the idea of sending anything into my air filter and turbo compressor other than pure clean, cool air. I decided that I will use an oil catch/water separator can instead, especially since I will use a larger free flowing air filter encased in a cooler larger air filter box.

I am not sure what the legal pollution requirements are in your specific countries but this is what I will use as shown in pics below, in theory all its venting is air but it might have higher pollution particles in a worn engine. It has a removable baffle for cleaning and a screw on dip stick to check when the oil needs to be disposed of.

The nice thing about this catch can is the fact that you can take off the air filter it has and place it inline with the cyclone breather so the air can be sent into the Landy's air filter while it still traps the oil. This way you are not venting to atmosphere so no pollution to worry about.

It is said that the oil and condensation coming from the rocker cover is contaminated and corrosive so I prefer to add fresh oil into my engine between oil changes and dispose of whats in the catch can.

.View attachment 165055 View attachment 165056View attachment 165057
Click to expand...
That's a smart looking unit, do you have a link to a supplier
 
ifloochies said:
@AI203 been a while since we heard back from you. Hoping this means you finally set your mind at ease about the quality of work on your rebuild.
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No, it just means there's not a lot to say. It's still burning oil at a rate of approx 250ml per week covering about 250-280 miles. It's either incorrect honing or carped seal rings on the turbo. The turbo is passing oil, but don't know if it accounts for all of it.
My next move is going to have to wait until the warmer weather again. Not sure what that's going to be yet. Probably the least hassle will be doing something with the turbo.

EDIT
Were you on night shift or having trouble sleeping :eek:
 
ifloochies said:
New member of the family who's turning 3 months in a few days has just about made sleep an enviable luxury for me....practically walking around in a daze all the time
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Ahh, that makes sense. I'm at the other end of that journey. My last one just moved out last weekend. All peaceful here :) I'm wondering if empty nest syndrome is going to kick. Actually, there's the square root of sod all chance of that happening :cool: To be fair, my three lads have been awesome and never a bit of bother. All slept right through from very early and have grown up playing sports all their lives and now have great jobs. Me and the Mrs are still looking forward to some us time though! :D
 
Hey Al,

I've wanted to say that my own engine was burning oil like mad and quite a lot of flow was in the breather pipe heading towards the air filter so over the last few weeks I've just gone through sorting all the glitches and 1st service items.

What I've found is that the combination of mineral oil (used only for breaking the engine in) evaporates quicker than your semi synthetic and that i had a few tight valves that I've re-adjusted. I think the tight valves was the main culprit. Might be worth checking if you haven't already. Tally -ho!
 
windy81 said:
Hey Al,

I've wanted to say that my own engine was burning oil like mad and quite a lot of flow was in the breather pipe heading towards the air filter so over the last few weeks I've just gone through sorting all the glitches and 1st service items.

What I've found is that the combination of mineral oil (used only for breaking the engine in) evaporates quicker than your semi synthetic and that i had a few tight valves that I've re-adjusted. I think the tight valves was the main culprit. Might be worth checking if you haven't already. Tally -ho!
Click to expand...
So has yours stopped burning oil? :)
How do you think the incorrect valve adjustment was causing your engine to burn oil?
 
compression passing past the valves. One valve had no clearance at all. The flow in my breather pipe is markedly less now as before it was more than i would expect plus it was full of oil all the way through the IC and into the inlet, sopping wet with oil.

I cant confirm if its stopped burning oil but the fumes from the exhaust don't have that oily smell and the little smoke i did have is all gone, which shows i think its solved the problem.

Thing is one of the glitches was a leaky oil filter housing, wasn't drastic but that's fixed also now so it should not use any oil from now on, oh and I've filled it with semi synthetic which should improve things even more.

I'll let you know for sure but i'm confident it wont burn oil now. Incidentally it runs so much nicer after the valve adjustments, Beautiful!
 
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windy81 said:
compression passing past the valves. One valve had no clearance at all. The flow in my breather pipe is markedly less now as before it was more than i would expect plus it was full of oil all the way through the IC and into the inlet, sopping wet with oil.

I cant confirm if its stopped burning oil but the fumes from the exhaust don't have that oily smell and the little smoke i did have is all gone, which shows i think its solved the problem.

Thing is one of the glitches was a leaky oil filter housing, wasn't drastic but that's fixed also now so it should not use any oil from now on, oh and I've filled it with semi synthetic which should improve things even more.

I'll let you know for sure but i'm confident it wont burn oil now. Incidentally it runs so much nicer after the valve adjustments, Beautiful!
Click to expand...
I think my valve clearances are ok, but I will check them. Anything is worth a try! :)
You'd know if you were burning oil as your oil level would go down.
 
Not sure if you're still pursing your oil consumption Al but I saw a 300tdi the other day with a dodgy vac pump that was passing a lot of pressure into the crankcase and upsetting things, another straw to grasp at perhaps
 
Goc3k said:
Not sure if you're still pursing your oil consumption Al but I saw a 300tdi the other day with a dodgy vac pump that was passing a lot of pressure into the crankcase and upsetting things, another straw to grasp at perhaps
Click to expand...
Yes I am. I keep telling myself I must put the time aside to take the head off.
How was the vac pump pressurising the crankcase? Did they think this pressure was pushing oil up past the rings?
Thanks for thinking about me and passing this on :)
 
I haven't ever looked inside a vac pump but as I understand it is just a piston with a series of one way check valves which passes into the crankcase, can't remember if it had a spongey / split hose up to the booster or if one of its internal seals / valves had gone but it had started pressurizing the crankcase, or a better way of putting it was it wasn't pulling a vacuum anymore but just acting as an air pump.

Don't think it was directly pushing oil past rings but excess pressure always upsets oiling, more latent vapour more windage, more work for the vent system etc - all contributing to the same effect.
 
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