300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

jamesmartin said:
if you support the box and remove engine mounts you can lower engine til a gap appears presuming all bolts are out

Thanks James, I'll give that a go. I've taken the nuts off the bottom of each engine mount and been lifting the engine up and down hoping it would crack open. I'll take the mounts off altogether. That'll give me a lot more room to swing the engine.

Never thought of that

jamesmartin · Mar 26, 2017

its important to support the front of the box

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

jamesmartin said:
its important to support the front of the box

Cheers, James.
I've got it out! I discovered that there are 13 studs and bolts and not 12

Missed the one tucked up against the clutch slave cylinder housing.

Now how on earth do I bolt it to the engine stand! What else needs to come off?

neilly · Mar 26, 2017

Good job,

Nice rope work.......LOL , Did the missus ask where her washing line was?

Cheers

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

neilly said:
Good job,

Nice rope work.......LOL , Did the missus ask where her washing line was?

Cheers

I thought there was more chain with the crane I borrowed. The rope was all I had. There are a lot of rope loops through there and I kept a very close eye on it

neilly · Mar 26, 2017

Al2O3 said:
I thought there was more chain with the crane I borrowed. The rope was all I had. There are a lot of rope loops through there and I kept a very close eye on it

No arguments from me...LOL , we have all had to do things that looking back on might be considered slightly dodgy, As you say lots of loops. No tears or broken bits so it was obviously good enough.

Cheers

Saint.V8 · Mar 26, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Cheers, James.
I've got it out! I discovered that there are 13 studs and bolts and not 12 Missed the one tucked up against the clutch slave cylinder housing.

Now how on earth do I bolt it to the engine stand! What else needs to come off?

Good work chap - I missed on bolt too...same place!

To mount onto the stand depends on the type of stand but most common if it bolts to the rear of the engine is to remove the clutch pressure plate, the clutch friction disc, the flywheel and the flywheel housing....the stand then bolts on the bolt holes that the flywheel housing was bolted to the block with.

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

It's in a dark little corner that bolt

Thanks for the info about the engine stand.
I was just watching this youtube video

which explains taking the clutch off.
So when you take the clutch off that gives you access to the bolts which hold the flywheel housing on. Take the flywheel housing off and bolt the stand in to these holes.
Can you remember what the thread is for the flywheel housing? ie what bolts you bought?

Saint.V8 · Mar 26, 2017

Sorry bud, I didn't use a stand, I just sat mine on wood on the workbench....

The heads on the flywheel housing were a 13 hex, so that would usually be an M8 bolt, but not sure.

To get the clutch off you ideally need to put a tube or similar into the spigot bearing (the hole at the back of the engine) to stop the clutch friction plate from dropping and cracking when you take the pressure plate off. You then have to evenly undo the 6(?) bolts that hold the pressure plate on to prevent the plate from distorting and maintain even spring pressure on the friction disc etc on removal.

Then you can remove the pressure plate and slide the friction plate off the tube.

You'll need to brace the engine if using a long bar, not needed if using an impact driver.....time to undo the flywheel bolts 8 of them.....then wiggle the flywheel off - careful it is surprisingly weighty.....usual method is to put a pair of long M8 bolts in the pressure plate bolt holes to use as handles and lift off.

You then have access to the flywheel housing bolts.

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

Thanks Saint.V8, that's a great set of pictures. How on earth did you manage it on the bench?

Saint.V8 · Mar 26, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Thanks Saint.V8, that's a great set of pictures. How on earth did you manage it on the bench?

It was surprisingly stable, I used a ratchet strap as it was biased to falling onto the FIP side of the engine as it overhangs the centreline ofthe block and tends to fall that way.

So I used a strap to keep it upright and it was also chocked up under the sump front edge too which gave it more stability.....

But I wasn't taking the bottom of the engine off like you are going to, so I could get away with it sitting on a bench.

You'll need to lower your engine on to the floor on a piece of board of a few layers of cardboard for protection while you remove the clutch, flywheel and housing then you can lift it back up onto the stand.....don't remove it from the crane while it is on the floor as this will hold it upright.

You may need a steadying hand to hold the engine while you undo the flywheel bolts and do them up again unless you are using an impact gun.

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

Yeah, it's currently sat on the drive on top of two big blocks of wood under the sump bolt line. The engine crane is still taking a lot of the weight though to keep it stable.
I'll post on the general forum to see if anyone knows the bolt thread needed for the stand, just in case it's not M8.

Kwakerman · Mar 26, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Cheers, James.
I've got it out! I discovered that there are 13 studs and bolts and not 12 Missed the one tucked up against the clutch slave cylinder housing.

Just been doing the clutch on mine, looking at the manual it says 14 fasteners, spent ages trying to figure out where the 14th one was. Concluded there was only 13 like you found out (and I counted on your pic above)!

Al2O3 · Mar 26, 2017

Must be a typo.
These things take loads of time though.
I spent about an hour or more on the top nut.

Sawed it off with a junior hacksaw blade in the end.

Saint.V8 · Mar 26, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Must be a typo.
These things take loads of time though.
I spent about an hour or more on the top nut. Sawed it off with a junior hacksaw blade in the end.

Yep, by far the longest single item on my engine removal was one bolt, took me the best part of an hour.

Kwakerman · Mar 27, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Must be a typo.
These things take loads of time though.
I spent about an hour or more on the top nut. Sawed it off with a junior hacksaw blade in the end.

Must admit all mine came off without any issue, did you use a 12 point socket by any chance and round it off? I used a 15mm impact socket (6 sided) and 10 inch long extension bar and it just reached fine. I imagine cutting the nut with engine and gearbox still installed must have been interesting

Al2O3 · Mar 28, 2017

Kwakerman said:
Must admit all mine came off without any issue, did you use a 12 point socket by any chance and round it off? I used a 15mm impact socket (6 sided) and 10 inch long extension bar and it just reached fine. I imagine cutting the nut with engine and gearbox still installed must have been interesting

I bought a 15mm, 6 sided socket especially for the job. Very top bell housing nut was already rounded though. The new socket couldn't get it either, so I took the blade out of a junior hacksaw and cut the side off the nut, just skimming the stud. I was lucky and got it spot on. Though the bonnet was off and I right foot on the passenger side engine mount and my head down between the engine and bulkhead. Only took an hour

It wasn't going to win though. All the others came off quite easily. Just missed the one beside the clutch slave cylinder.

Once that one was off the engine and box came apart no bother. Next day I could feel the muscles across the top of my shoulders and back a bit

Saint.V8 · Mar 28, 2017

Before you remove the clutch components, make sure you have a way of re-centralising the friction plate - using the correct locating tool/pin, a clutch centralising tool or like I did, a tube wrapped in electrical tape to the correct internal diameters of the spigot bush and the friction plate splines

It is easier to make the tube and tape version while the clutch and etc are still on the engine and being held in the right place!

Al2O3 · Mar 28, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
Before you remove the clutch components, make sure you have a way of re-centralising the friction plate - using the correct locating tool/pin, a clutch centralising tool or like I did, a tube wrapped in electrical tape to the correct internal diameters of the spigot bush and the friction plate splines

Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tape

I'll hopefully be taking the clutch off tomorrow. I've ordered some M10 and M8 bolts which should arrive tomorrow. All going well, I'll get it on the engine stand and in to the garage ready for the strip down.

Saint.V8 · Mar 28, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Sounds like a top tip. Approximately what diameter, can you remember? I've got some 22mm copper pipe and duct tape
I'll hopefully be taking the clutch off tomorrow. I've ordered some M10 and M8 bolts which should arrive tomorrow. All going well, I'll get it on the engine stand and in to the garage ready for the strip down.

Sorry I don't know the specific dims.

I just took the pipe, wrapped some tape round it, tried it in the hole until it was a good snug fit, then did the same a bit further up the tube so once the first part is snug in the spigot bush, it was snug in the friction plate splines.....it was a case of ad a few wraps of tape, try it in the hole, add some more, try again...oops too much remove a layer until I had got it pretty close and snug.

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