300 Tdi Rebuild

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Wish it were pishing down here so i could find out weather I'v fixed the water leak on the passenger side :(
Going by BBC forecast last night I thought most of the country were going to get rain today. Just showers in some places though. It's been raining all day here, occasionally stopping but just for 10 mins. Had some very heavy showers including heavy hail. :(
Mind you, I know the farmers are desperate for rain here because we've had very little for weeks now, so today will be keeping a lot of folk happy.
 
The last time's it rained heavy here Al the passenger side foot well was like a swimming pool :mad: So down to Dads this morning (just to get him to give me a lift of with the bonnet) so that I could get the plastic & the wipers off ! found a bit of rot at the bottom of were the air intake for the heater is so gave it some wire brush & some FLASH BAND :) so hopefully got it cured :rolleyes:
And now it's Pishing down so may not have long to wait!:):)
 
The last time's it rained heavy here Al the passenger side foot well was like a swimming pool :mad: So down to Dads this morning (just to get him to give me a lift of with the bonnet) so that I could get the plastic & the wipers off ! found a bit of rot at the bottom of were the air intake for the heater is so gave it some wire brush & some FLASH BAND :) so hopefully got it cured :rolleyes:
And now it's Pishing down so may not have long to wait!:):)

You may find another hole in the inner wing where the 'drain' for the scuttle goes ....

This how a drivers side can look ...
upload_2017-5-20_15-1-14.png
 
The last time's it rained heavy here Al the passenger side foot well was like a swimming pool :mad: So down to Dads this morning (just to get him to give me a lift of with the bonnet) so that I could get the plastic & the wipers off ! found a bit of rot at the bottom of were the air intake for the heater is so gave it some wire brush & some FLASH BAND :) so hopefully got it cured :rolleyes:
And now it's Pishing down so may not have long to wait!:):)
Fingers crossed, hope you've cracked it. Good sense of job satisfaction if you do something to stop water getting in :)
 
The rain completely stopped any progress yesterday, but got a fair bit done today.
There are several questions through this post, that I need help with, so if you are reading and can help I'd be very grateful :)
Took the old cylinder head bolts out that had been temporarily holding the head on to enable me to lift the engine in.
Put them in to a numbered template then made another so I could match up the new bolts in to the correct positions.
IMG_6247.JPG

Lightly oiled the bolts and torqued them all down following the 40Nm, 60 degrees, 60 degrees, 20 degrees (for some) sequence.
Thought the final torques would be hard to pull, but they weren't too bad. Might have been the mechanical advantage of the 3 foot breaker bar?
IMG_6248.JPG

It felt like I could have turned the bolts a lot more. Does that sound right?
Fitted the injectors with some tiny dabs of copper slip to hold the copper washers on. ring facing up towards the injector. If they fall off they invariable spin upside down on the way down the tube.
IMG_6250.JPG

Fitted the leak off unions. For some reason the last one would not tighten down and you can see the gap from the bolt in this picture.
IMG_6251.JPG

I don't think new copper washers will fill the gap. I find it hard to believe, but I've a load of copper washers in those Elring gasket sets that I don't know where they go. None for the leak off unions in the set :mad: if @jamesmartin or anyone else knows the part number I'd appreciate you saving me looking it up.
Hand tightened the heater plugs in.
IMG_6252.JPG

Lucas engine lubed the push rods and slotted those in.
IMG_6254.JPG

Slipped the tappets on and just hand tightened for now.
IMG_6255.JPG

Cleaned the starter terminals with brake cleaner and then give them a light emery.
IMG_6265.JPG

Connected it up. Good time to do it before putting the turbo on and blocking access.
IMG_6266.JPG


I've got a question about the turbo pipes. Do you need to use exhaust fire gum type stuff in here? They are a snuggish fit, but no way gas tight!
IMG_6261.JPG

Another question. This gasket came in the Elring set
IMG_6258.JPG

It's got raised thicker bits where the turbo is going to fit.
I also got this with the turbo.
IMG_6264.JPG

Is this now redundant? It's for the centre section of the turbo. I didn't get any with the turbo for the outer pipes? :confused:
Put the turbo on, just hand tight.
IMG_6267.JPG
Put the EGR blank in.
IMG_6268.JPG
I've got this rubber stopper, came with the EGR blanking kit, but I can't find the little pipe that used to go to the EGR :oops: It's there somewhere and I presume this is to block it off? Can anyone confirm that?
IMG_6270.JPG

When taking it apart I couldn't pull off the hard leak off pipe that goes back to the FIP. I cut it off close to the union.
IMG_6269.JPG

Does anyone know the part number? Does it have to be hard pipe? I've read on another thread someone quoting the pipe ID for the leak off pipes and getting it from Halfords, I think? I need to replace the flexible leak off pipes between the injectors too. I'll need to get that this week. Local LR independent might have it.
Put the shiny inlet manifold on, but didn't take a picture of it in place. :rolleyes:
IMG_6257.JPG


That was about it apart from: fitted the power steering pipes to the pump; fuel pipes to lift pump; fuel pipe to FIP (need to put new copper washers in from that FAB Elring kit); throttle cable to FIP; exhaust to turbo just finger tight; taped plastic bags over remaining holes on turbo and inlet,

Right, I'm off for a shower and shall return with a Guinness! :)
 
When taking it apart I couldn't pull off the hard leak off pipe that goes back to the FIP. I cut it off close to the union.

Looking good.

When I replaced mine, I replaced the whole thing, Looks like MJN100910, costs about £20.

Do you need to use exhaust fire gum type stuff in here?

Someone recently posted a pic of a similar installation, had lots of exhaust compund in the joint. May have been D2 Td5 not a 300tdi. But I would assume it is the same issue.

Cheers
 
The rain completely stopped any progress yesterday, but got a fair bit done today.
There are several questions through this post, that I need help with, so if you are reading and can help I'd be very grateful :)
Took the old cylinder head bolts out that had been temporarily holding the head on to enable me to lift the engine in.
Put them in to a numbered template then made another so I could match up the new bolts in to the correct positions.
View attachment 124083
Lightly oiled the bolts and torqued them all down following the 40Nm, 60 degrees, 60 degrees, 20 degrees (for some) sequence.
Thought the final torques would be hard to pull, but they weren't too bad. Might have been the mechanical advantage of the 3 foot breaker bar?
View attachment 124084
It felt like I could have turned the bolts a lot more. Does that sound right?
Fitted the injectors with some tiny dabs of copper slip to hold the copper washers on. ring facing up towards the injector. If they fall off they invariable spin upside down on the way down the tube.
View attachment 124085
Fitted the leak off unions. For some reason the last one would not tighten down and you can see the gap from the bolt in this picture.
View attachment 124086
I don't think new copper washers will fill the gap. I find it hard to believe, but I've a load of copper washers in those Elring gasket sets that I don't know where they go. None for the leak off unions in the set :mad: if @jamesmartin or anyone else knows the part number I'd appreciate you saving me looking it up.
Hand tightened the heater plugs in.
View attachment 124087
Lucas engine lubed the push rods and slotted those in.
View attachment 124088
Slipped the tappets on and just hand tightened for now.
View attachment 124089
Cleaned the starter terminals with brake cleaner and then give them a light emery.
View attachment 124090
Connected it up. Good time to do it before putting the turbo on and blocking access.
View attachment 124091

I've got a question about the turbo pipes. Do you need to use exhaust fire gum type stuff in here? They are a snuggish fit, but no way gas tight!
View attachment 124092
Another question. This gasket came in the Elring set
View attachment 124093
It's got raised thicker bits where the turbo is going to fit.
I also got this with the turbo.
View attachment 124094
Is this now redundant? It's for the centre section of the turbo. I didn't get any with the turbo for the outer pipes? :confused:
Put the turbo on, just hand tight.
View attachment 124095 Put the EGR blank in.
View attachment 124096 I've got this rubber stopper, came with the EGR blanking kit, but I can't find the little pipe that used to go to the EGR :oops: It's there somewhere and I presume this is to block it off? Can anyone confirm that?
View attachment 124097
When taking it apart I couldn't pull off the hard leak off pipe that goes back to the FIP. I cut it off close to the union.
View attachment 124098
Does anyone know the part number? Does it have to be hard pipe? I've read on another thread someone quoting the pipe ID for the leak off pipes and getting it from Halfords, I think? I need to replace the flexible leak off pipes between the injectors too. I'll need to get that this week. Local LR independent might have it.
Put the shiny inlet manifold on, but didn't take a picture of it in place. :rolleyes:
View attachment 124099

That was about it apart from: fitted the power steering pipes to the pump; fuel pipes to lift pump; fuel pipe to FIP (need to put new copper washers in from that FAB Elring kit); throttle cable to FIP; exhaust to turbo just finger tight; taped plastic bags over remaining holes on turbo and inlet,

Right, I'm off for a shower and shall return with a Guinness! :)
Doesn't look like you have fitted the metal valve stem caps (not valve stem oil seals) when you took the picture of the valve gear, have you got them on now?
 
If you look on the bulkhead roughly where the intake manifold is that is where the EGR valve is, if you follow the pipes one should go the air pipe between the air filter and turbo air inlet IIRC. If your cap is the correct size then I would fit it at that end rather than the EGR end as there is less chance for leaks in the future.
 
Looking good.

When I replaced mine, I replaced the whole thing, Looks like MJN100910, costs about £20.
Cheers, neilly. I'll look that up. :)


Someone recently posted a pic of a similar installation, had lots of exhaust compund in the joint. May have been D2 Td5 not a 300tdi. But I would assume it is the same issue.

Cheers
Hadn't realised this as the old unit went back in one piece. I've had the new turbo for a few months now, but I just took it out of the sealed bag today. The two side pipes were sealed in a separate bag. They must get sealed with something! Can't think of anything else other than exhaust gum. :)


Doesn't look like you have fitted the metal valve stem caps (not valve stem oil seals) when you took the picture of the valve gear, have you got them on now?
Hawk eye, or what! :eek:
You're right, I didn't put them on as the rocker assembly is just there temporarily. Thought I'd set the tappets once I've got the timing done. Didn't want to get the caps out until then in case I lost one, cos they are pretty small. They're safe in their packet for now. ;)
 
If you look on the bulkhead roughly where the intake manifold is that is where the EGR valve is, if you follow the pipes one should go the air pipe between the air filter and turbo air inlet IIRC. If your cap is the correct size then I would fit it at that end rather than the EGR end as there is less chance for leaks in the future.
Do you mean here?
IMG_5889.JPG

The pipe with the blue marking?
 
Yes, that's the EGR control valve, if you follow the thin pipe you have your hand on that is the one from to the intake pipe, the blue one goes to the EGR valve and can therefore be removed
So I take that thin pipe off the air intake pipe and put the new rubber cap on where it comes off?
 
Yes, that's the EGR control valve, if you follow the thin pipe you have your hand on that is the one from to the intake pipe, the blue one goes to the EGR valve and can therefore be removed
Thinking about it there is also another pipe that goes to the vac pump pipework, also worth blanking that one off to as any leaks could also reduce your brake servo efficiency.
 
So I take that thin pipe off the air intake pipe and put the new rubber cap on where it comes off?
I think so, will have to look at mine as I did it a few years ago and working from memory ( I made my own blanks so just went through and deleted all the pipework). I left the valve on the bulkhead but that was just because it was there and held the electrical connector
 
Thinking about it there is also another pipe that goes to the vac pump pipework, also worth blanking that one off to as any leaks could also reduce your brake servo efficiency.
I've fitted the vacuum pipe to the vac pump and to the servo today. Didn't notice another pipe gong to it. I'll check that out. Cheers :)
 
I think so, will have to look at mine as I did it a few years ago and working from memory ( I made my own blanks so just went through and deleted all the pipework). I left the valve on the bulkhead but that was just because it was there and held the electrical connector
I should look up a how to on LZ. There'll be one :rolleyes:
 
Re the leak off pipes - mine were goosed - and one of them actually failed just before I managed to get round to it :mad::rolleyes: - I bought some 3mm bore silicon off flea bay for the injector to injector pipes, and some 6mm for the main return - even comes in nice colours too....
bracket.jpg

Cos our D1's are blue, we got blue pipe :). All held together with decent quality cable ties - 2 years later and no leaks... ;)

( though SWMBO did fancy pink pipe for hers :rolleyes: ....:D)
 
Re the leak off pipes - mine were goosed - and one of them actually failed just before I managed to get round to it :mad::rolleyes: - I bought some 3mm bore silicon off flea bay for the injector to injector pipes, and some 6mm for the main return - even comes in nice colours too....View attachment 124111
Cos our D1's are blue, we got blue pipe :). All held together with decent quality cable ties - 2 years later and no leaks... ;)

( though SWMBO did fancy pink pipe for hers :rolleyes: ....:D)
Interesting. I didn't realise the main return was a different diameter? Is that just on the Discos?
I've been looking at the full new kit MJN100910, as neilly posted. Does seem a shame to scrap the metal unions though.
 
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