3.9 v8 efi auto into a 90 defender

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If I get time today I'll measure my props and let you know what they are. I'll try and take some pics as well if my son hasn't nicked the batterys for his xbox lol I cant see how you could have got your transfer box too high if you've used the original mounts.
 
e4yob said:
If I get time today I'll measure my props and let you know what they are. I'll try and take some pics as well if my son hasn't nicked the batterys for his xbox lol I cant see how you could have got your transfer box too high if you've used the original mounts.
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origenal mounts from a 90 are wrong, im useing rrc transferbox mounts,

also can you take a pic of where the engine mounts need to be, looking from the top downwards the v8 mounts have been bolted to the engine and have ended up on top of chassis rail between the spring seat, (sorry hard to explane)
if you look down on top of chassis raised ribs of the spring seat and mounts are in between them, is this right?


45869_431296473047_720403047_4934020_1905054_n.jpg


is this in the right location?
needs to be strightened up and welded,but you can see where im on about on chassis now.
 
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just a thought m8,i take it originally it was a tdi?have you moved the engine mounts forward (2 in abouts) for the v8.When i fitted mine i used the gearbox mounts as a refferance point, and before i fitted the engine i checked the props.Once these lined up i mated engine to box,cut mounts off and re welded them,sorted.hope this helps.While im on can i use efi dizzy on a carb convertion?(old flapper cant get it restarted HELP PLEASE)
 
Mr lab said:
just a thought m8,i take it originally it was a tdi?have you moved the engine mounts forward (2 in abouts) for the v8.When i fitted mine i used the gearbox mounts as a refferance point, and before i fitted the engine i checked the props.Once these lined up i mated engine to box,cut mounts off and re welded them,sorted.hope this helps.While im on can i use efi dizzy on a carb convertion?(old flapper cant get it restarted HELP PLEASE)
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no mine is a 2.5 petrol,E REG 87,have cut off engine mounts and they are now well forward of 2.5 ones but not welded,was told the transfer box chassis holes were the holes to use when doing this conversion, looking at malcs pics i noticed that his hand brake cable misses the seat box as mine fouls it so what im going to do is to put on my rrc rear axel (as that diff seems to be a bit longer)bolt to it the prop bring back the engine/gearbox/transfer boxes to meet prop, drill new holes in chassis and lower transfer box to so the hand brake cable will miss seat box that way i know all thats got to be sorted is the front prop and as we are only talking a few inches just have to get one made up,
your thoughs?

as for dizzy not sure, go to lro.com and ask there on the range rover board.
 
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Mr lab said:
just a thought m8,i take it originally it was a tdi?have you moved the engine mounts forward (2 in abouts) for the v8.When i fitted mine i used the gearbox mounts as a refferance point, and before i fitted the engine i checked the props.Once these lined up i mated engine to box,cut mounts off and re welded them,sorted.hope this helps.While im on can i use efi dizzy on a carb convertion?(old flapper cant get it restarted HELP PLEASE)
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if the engine is post 76 then yes , but you will need to swap the drive gear form the old one.

if you are using the efi engine then just leave the dizzy in it , it will work fine as the systems are totally sperate.
 
just found out today,regarding the range rover, that after 89 when they went to a vicous coupling instead of difflock.

when thay did this the length of the front prop changed, I think it was made shorter.

I dont know if this makes a difference to your job.
 
Hi people i have just done the same but am struggling to start it. it has spark so guessing ECU is working and COIL but think the fuel regulator is not allowing fuel into the engine???????? i turn fuel pump on and turn engine but nothing it sounds like it wants to start but wont and when i take a plug out it bone dry. i took my engine from a disco thou with a immobliser does this matter? have got all wires from engine to ecu but cant work out the rest?? sorry for the ramble but really want to hear it run let alone roar:).
 
crazydave said:
At the white multiplug, the big fat brown and orange cable needs a permanent live from battery, no need to fuse it as it is fused at the ECU end of the loom, once for ign, and again for fuel pump. The 2 relays there are IGN (black base) and fuel pump (blue base) The white wire with a grey stripe needs an ign live ,from key, andd is the positive feed for your fuel pump. The only other essential wiring is a -ve input from coil, mark this on disassembly. As you're taking out a diesel, use the wire to the stop solenoid on the diesel pump as your coil +ve. Mark up the oil pressure switch wire, temp sender wire and alternator connections as you remove them from the diesel, you may need to extend /shorten these as neccessary.

I didn't bother with the speed transducer input for the ECU, and although this may mean that I am only running on an 'idle' fuel map, it still kicks arse.

The props I used are both the same, and are Rangerover v8 auto front props.

Didn't realise how long I had been ranting on, but hope this helps. shout up if there's owt I can help with, Dave.
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Im having trouble with the wiring on mine i think........

Firstly, by 'At the white multiplug' Do you mean the plug which plugs into the ECU?

Secondly, Is the wire which needs to go to the +ve of the coil the one which runs on from the air mass meter connector at the end of the loom?

Thirdly, are there any other earths to connect apart from the one at the back of the engine?


Ive found 'The white wire with a grey stripe, thats sorted'.

Ive located the purple and white wire for the fuel pump.

Anything else anyone can think of to get it goin?

Thanks a bunch, Ben
 
Yeah from the plug that you pulled out of the bulk head from donor car, it's a White plug with about five or six wire going in/out you need the solid brown to per live (batt) and White to ign live and purple to fuel pump this is all you need for it to run. And you will need a switch live to coil if it was a diesel use the fuel cut off wire
 
sible88 said:
Yeah from the plug that you pulled out of the bulk head from donor car, it's a White plug with about five or six wire going in/out you need the solid brown to per live (batt) and White to ign live and purple to fuel pump this is all you need for it to run. And you will need a switch live to coil if it was a diesel use the fuel cut off wire
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Mine was a 3.9 running on a holley carb. I got the efi system from a running donar rrc.

I think this is where i've gone wrong. So all the wireing i need to do is at that white multiplug?

The thing which is just not adding up to me is, how does the ecu know when to fire the injectors? I carnt see how it knows when the sparks are firing....

I know i'm close just need a little more help.

Thanks Ben
 
Does your carb system still all work and how much do you want for it? Connect the wires from that White multi-plug and it will run trust me!
 
Sorry pal, it's already gone, we swapped my carb for his efi. I do have a mate with a Holley on an offenhous inlet which might be for sale. I'll check with him on Monday if you like.

Gonna have another go at it tomorrow.

There's one other thing I'm stuck on. Theres a pipe connection at the back of the plenum...? No idea which which pipe is ment to go on it. Any ideas? All I know is it sucks like hell when it's turning over.
 
The pipe you mention could be one for the crankcase, if it is, it connects to the top of one of the rocker covers via a flame trap. The other rocker cover will breath to atmosphere via a filter.
 
sible88 said:
Does your carb system still all work and how much do you want for it? Connect the wires from that White multi-plug and it will run trust me!
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Thanks mate, it's running now. :)

The donar car had CATS. Some I'm guessing I nowhave the wrong tune redisistor.....?

Can I use lamda sensors without a cat?

It seems to cut out at idle once warm, is this because because I haven't connected the coolant thermostat to the ecu yet? Or should I be looking else where??

Thanks for all ur help so far guys. Nearly nailed it....
 
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