3.5 V8 Rebuild

jai_landrover · Dec 27, 2012

ok Enough bollix,

Being serious how does the oil change direction i.e directed down the silicone tube?? Have you got the internal brass tube extended internally to "catch" the oil or just relying the tube being brazed flush to direct some oil to the chain?

I think if you have done the latter then you have wasted your time if im honest

discomark10 · Dec 27, 2012

jai_landrover said:
ok Enough bollix,

Being serious how does the oil change direction i.e directed down the silicone tube?? Have you got the internal brass tube extended internally to "catch" the oil or just relying the tube being brazed flush to direct some oil to the chain?

I think if you have done the latter then you have wasted your time if im honest

This is how its put together

jai_landrover · Dec 27, 2012

How much oil will that divert??????

fett · Dec 27, 2012

I did ask about the Bias

fett · Dec 27, 2012

discomark10 said:
if you got nothing contructive to say.. dont bother, im doing this thread so if anyone else is going to do similar it will help some what. if it doesnt run, ill fix it and add it on here, end of.

Dont get silly mate, I was talking about doc evils own thread regarding "non starting v8 any ideas"

I would have bothered pointing out the soft solder if I wasnt being constructive would I

discomark10 · Dec 27, 2012

ok. well im not sure how much will be diverted, its only some of the oil which will be returning from 1 head, so not presurised. its a minimum of 5mm ID tubing so what ever that works out being gravity fed.

fett · Dec 27, 2012

Thor1950 · Dec 27, 2012

Dr_evil said:
Was either 2.5 or 1.25 but either way thats way more stress than it would ever get in an engineconsider the fact that solder is generally a liquid/melts at 183* and go from there.

ok doc...... about 335F and oil temp is close to 200F will soften and vibration will cause it to fail........... If it was a silver braze, commonally called soft solider then maybe

Thor1950 · Dec 27, 2012

Dr_evil said:
What so its idiotic that theres a heat affected zone that generally fails before a decent weld :doh: no its not.

We've been doing weld testing for the last term and 90% of the time the weld will survive but the metal wont

Not replying past this anyway so feel free to insult seeing as you appear to be in a foul mood.

Did you do proper post heat after welding???????

Thor1950 · Dec 27, 2012

thought it was mine! said:
one thinks he did not get anuff attention as a kid

+1

ound:

ound::high5:

That is why he was sent away by mom and dad

fett · Dec 27, 2012

true

discomark10 · Dec 27, 2012

So is there going to be a acutal problem with the lead solder? If so ill remake it

fett · Dec 27, 2012

well as I said I woudnt risk it inside an engine!

Thor1950 · Dec 27, 2012

discomark10 said:
So is there going to be a acutal problem with the lead solder? If so ill remake it

think engine heat will soften it and vibration won't help either. Lead soldier is only designed for like 120-140F water

Mr Noisy · Dec 29, 2012

probably better to make it out of steel and weld it.

better safe than sorry!!

fett · Dec 29, 2012

dont be rude now noisy

PMSL

discomark10 · Dec 30, 2012

well, that was exactly my thoughts, but the old man found some high temp solder, 300c melting point. but i might just #### that idea off and do it with steel and be done with it.

fett · Dec 30, 2012

I would or it could cost more that just a drive gear!

Next time realise I was just tryna help mate

discomark10 · Dec 30, 2012

I know you was, all input appreciated

fett · Dec 30, 2012

good man

3.5 V8 Rebuild

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