3.5 V8 Rebuild

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Was either 2.5 or 1.25 but either way thats way more stress than it would ever get in an engine……consider the fact that solder is generally a liquid/melts at 183* and go from there.
 
Thats ok Mark, its your engine. I would always wonder as I expect you could pull that apart with your hands. I would have brazed it or used steel tube so it could be tig welded but we all have to use what we have to hand and what suits the equipment we have. How have you biased the oil flow from the cam to the drive gear?
 
Dr_evil said:
Was either 2.5 or 1.25 but either way thats way more stress than it would ever get in an engine……consider the fact that solder is generally a liquid/melts at 183* and go from there.
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Is like the maths that proved without doubt it was the leads that stopped your engine from working??? didnt make it work when you changed the leads though did it :doh:

Its more about the vibration and work hardening over time as well as the hot oil. If it was a right pipe to pipe fit it would be better than a flat plate to round pipe.

When I worked in the boat yard we were pouring a 57 ton lead keel. we poured it through steel tubes that had been mig welded (not by me) 4 out of 6 of the mig welds failed after 5 mins of pouring as the heat was too much for them. correct me if I am wrong but the lead melts a lot sooner that steel but it didnt stop them failing with the heat.

I suggest you hold off on advice untill you actually know the vaguest thing about- well anything, as you talk more bollocks on here than anyone and thats not right when its matters of landy work that could cost owners money (this is not only related to this thread).
 
fett said:
Is like the maths that proved without doubt it was the leads that stopped your engine from working??? didnt make it work when you changed the leads though did it :doh:

Its more about the vibration and work hardening over time as well as the hot oil. If it was a right pipe to pipe fit it would be better than a flat plate to round pipe.

When I worked in the boat yard we were pouring a 57 ton lead keel. we poured it through steel tubes that had been mig welded (not by me) 4 out of 6 of the mig welds failed after 5 mins of pouring as the heat was too much for them. correct me if I am wrong but the lead melts a lot sooner that steel but it didnt stop them failing with the heat.

I suggest you hold off on advice untill you actually know the vaguest thing about- well anything, as you talk more bollocks on here than anyone and thats not right when its matters of landy work that could cost owners money (this is not only related to this thread).
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Made it start coughing and kicking though didn't it :doh: progress is progress.



Lead melts at 330*C aprox however yes if pouring it will affect as you get heat from the lead, heat from friction and not to mention the fact that lead weighs in at about 5KG per 3.7L.
Steel is 1500*C aprox and yes maths wise it shouldn't cause a weld to melt……but to fail due to the high weight it could. I don't want to hijack this thread though, and it might not have been the weld that failed it could quite easily have been the steel around it given that the HAZ after welding is generally much weaker than the surrounding steel.

If you do a denison test on a welded specimen you will generally find that with a good weld the part that fails is the metal on either side of it.
 
Dr_evil said:
Made it start coughing and kicking though didn't it :doh: progress is progress.



Lead melts at 330*C aprox however yes if pouring it will affect as you get heat from the lead, heat from friction and not to mention the fact that lead weighs in at about 5KG per 3.7L.
Steel is 1500*C aprox and yes maths wise it shouldn't cause a weld to melt……but to fail due to the high weight it could. I don't want to hijack this thread though, and it might not have been the weld that failed it could quite easily have been the steel around it given that the HAZ after welding is generally much weaker than the surrounding steel.

If you do a denison test on a welded specimen you will generally find that with a good weld the part that fails is the metal on either side of it.
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Youre an idiot, shut up!
 
discomark10 said:
I have to agree the flat plate is the weak point.. I might change that bit slightly. .. better to do it now than later or if it fails
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well said, I just didnt want you to damage your engine after all that work. it may have been ok for 100 years but you just never know so always best to do the best you can. if you can get it to me I can get it brazed after christmas holdays by a proper coppersmith
 
fett said:
Youre an idiot, shut up!
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What so its idiotic that theres a heat affected zone that generally fails before a decent weld :doh: no its not.

We've been doing weld testing for the last term and 90% of the time the weld will survive but the metal wont



Not replying past this anyway so feel free to insult seeing as you appear to be in a foul mood.
 
Dr_evil said:
What so its idiotic that theres a heat affected zone that generally fails before a decent weld :doh: no its not.

We've been doing weld testing for the last term and 90% of the time the weld will survive but the metal wont



Not replying past this anyway so feel free to insult seeing as you appear to be in a foul mood.
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Stick to your own thread as you have nothing useful to offer to any others!
 
looks like an idea but how does the oil shange direction down the silicone tube?? surley 99.9% of the oil will flow back to the cam. unless you have a catch plate in the tube??
 
guys.. enough...

Anyways it runs from the head and usuly goes down the hole above the cam, now it re directs some of it and flows down the larger tube with the flaired end into a 5mm id tube through the side of the block and the silicone.
 
fett said:
I reckon his v8 thread will be at 7 million posts and it still wont run lol
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if you got nothing contructive to say.. dont bother, im doing this thread so if anyone else is going to do similar it will help some what. if it doesnt run, ill fix it and add it on here, end of.
 
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