2.5 ton paperweight??

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modelman said:
Just hooked up diagnostics again for engine, this is the screen, engine running, can someone explain the meanings please?
On starting, the engine is running as soon as I turn the key, is runs lovely & smooth & throttles nice, it smokes a little though.
Click to expand...
Modulation is way out, should be 50% with the engine temperature at 95C. I have an easy way to adjust the modulation, PM me with an Email address if you would like the info.
Fuel flow out of range seems to crop up a lot. some say it's a worn FIP but I am not so sure. I have that fault on my project car, it has no effect on the cars performance. I will get to the bottom of the cause eventually.
 
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Datatek said:
Modulation is way out, should be 50% with the engine temperature at 95C. I have an easy way to adjust the modulation, PM me with an Email address if you would like the info.
Fuel flow out of range seems to crop up a lot. some say it's a worn FIP but I am not so sure. I have that fault on my project car, it has no effect on the cars performance. I will get to the bottom of the cause eventually
Click to expand...

Datatek said:
PM sent, thanks.
Click to expand...
 
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Mark Piercy said:
Flow out of range everytime I scan mine☺️
The modulation is a must to set back to 50%👍
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Fuel flow goes out of range when it shuts off and the control collar is moved to shut the duel off.

Note the comments above on modulation being read at idle with engine at normal (warmed up) temperature.

I'd be more interested in any faults in the ABS module. If it is a 4W TC model you can read the ECU values as long as you don't go faster than 5 kph (when the lights go out on the dash).
 
The more I think about it, I feel it MUST have something to do with the ABS module, since I believe it controls ALL the wheels.
As its one of the very last P38s made & DHSE model, I'm assuming it will have 4w TC ??
The way the lockup fades away after a short time suggests to me its pressure related.
Is there any way I can disable ABS/TC to try again & prove it?
 
modelman said:
The more I think about it, I feel it MUST have something to do with the ABS module, since I believe it controls ALL the wheels.
As its one of the very last P38s made & DHSE model, I'm assuming it will have 4w TC ??
The way the lockup fades away after a short time suggests to me its pressure related.
Is there any way I can disable ABS/TC to try again & prove it?
Click to expand...
Yes your year of car will have 4 wheel ABS. Unplug the ABS ECU and see what happens. Modulation info will be sent this evening when I'm in my office.
 
Lucky day, managed to source locally a set of 18" alloys from a guy just round the corner who was about to weigh them in!!
Can you believe, £50!!
Even luckier, managed to sell those awful 20" for a little less than I paid for the new tyres.
Even luckier still, I kept a brand new set of 18" alloys from a Tiguan I recently sold which had 20" originally, so the tyres went
straight on the RR!!
Woja fink??
 

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modelman said:
Lucky day, managed to source locally a set of 18" alloys from a guy just round the corner who was about to weigh them in!!
Can you believe, £50!!
Even luckier, managed to sell those awful 20" for a little less than I paid for the new tyres.
Even luckier still, I kept a brand new set of 18" alloys from a Tiguan I recently sold which had 20" originally, so the tyres went
straight on the RR!!
Woja fink??
Click to expand...
I would be worried about the tyre ratings from the Tiguan, they may not be up to supporting the weight of a P38
 
Load rating of 104 I think it should be OK. I'm not too bothered at the moment, its just a project to get running,
If/when I get it sorted, I might put it on the road & use it!! Still got a fair bit to do though.

Bricks are simply a 'stop' for when I back up.:)
 
Yes, I do have spigots, I had no choice about the wheels, that's what the guy had, however, of all the designs out there,
they are the best lookers in my opinion, I love the way the spokes end at the back of the rim, leaving a deep 'flange',
just my opinion of course.
The original grill had all the support ribs behind broken/missing, so I cut out the slats, keeping the original outer frame
& grafted on a chopped/altered unit from a RR Sport, it fits ok as its still using the correct frame!! ( I cheat a lot )
 
Pulled ABS fuses & ABS relay, took it for a quick run around the block, seemed to go fine, no sign of brakes or anything else binding, so what do I look for now? Nanocom tells me no faults.
 
modelman said:
Pulled ABS fuses & ABS relay, took it for a quick run around the block, seemed to go fine, no sign of brakes or anything else binding, so what do I look for now? Nanocom tells me no faults.
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As said before, corrosion in the ABS ECU connector or a duff ECU. They do fail from time to time. I don't know, but you can probably look at live data from the ABS ECU with Nanocom, that might show where the problem lies.
 
Datatek said:
As said before, corrosion in the ABS ECU connector or a duff ECU. They do fail from time to time. I don't know, but you can probably look at live data from the ABS ECU with Nanocom, that might show where the problem lies.
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The ABS ECU was removed, wiring connectors again like new, all coated with Stabilant, as well as trying a replacement ECU.
If corrosion bad wiring bad or ECU duff, would not Nanocom flag up a fault??
Is it OK to drive with Nanocom connected?
 
modelman said:
The ABS ECU was removed, wiring connectors again like new, all coated with Stabilant, as well as trying a replacement ECU.
If corrosion bad wiring bad or ECU duff, would not Nanocom flag up a fault??
Is it OK to drive with Nanocom connected?
Click to expand...
Certain failure modes of ECU's will not flag a fault.
What is "Stabilant"
Yes you can drive with Nanocom connected, just don't start the engine with it connected, connect after starting.
 
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