2.5 ton paperweight??

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You have to get all that gooey stuff off, I think I used a Stanley blade on some parts and shaved it off.
 
modelman said:
Yeh, I'm in the process of stripping & cleaning mine as well, it weird, if I scrape my nail across it, a gooey 'layer' is removed.:(
There are 3 plugs in the doors, not used as the previous owner fitted high-power speakers etc. BUT, I see two original 'T' type plugs which obviously went to 2 speakers, but can any one tell me where the yellow cored plug goes?? I cant find anything or anywhere for it to go??? And all the sockets in the doors are already occupied.
Then had a mad 1/2 hour with a big copper/hide mallet persuading the floor back to where it belongs, The impact had pulled up the heating duct out of place, seems ok now.
Click to expand...
I'm reluctant to remove the gooey layer as it looks like the plastic underneath is beige
That connector looks like it might be for the puddle light in the base of the door.
 
Had 4 new tyres fitted yesterday, got real fed up inflating them every day!! The old ones were 2014 & cracked all over sidewalls & even everywhere between the tread, shame really as they all 7-8mm tread depth.:(
Already beginning to look better, even though it doesn't 'go' yet!!!
Started to remove the 'gooey' surface of the main dash panel, I'm sure its paint & from factory, as its the same on the inside when all the switches etc. are removed, tried all sorts & have ended up using paint-thinner, brutal I know, but once off, it leaves a nice clean surface to which I'm going to spray a new finish.
Even though the original Rover GPS works fine, its a dinosaur nowadays, so I will fit a new Garmin into the opening, after measuring, it looks like the 6" unit might just about go in with a little bit of 'modding'
Does anyone know anything about the 'Parrot' system?? the car seems to have a complete setup, theres a blue box under the HEVAC unit with many plugs & sockets going in & out, into the centre glove box terminating in various phone & mp3 adaptors, a small speaker in the footwell & a wire going up to something on the windscreen.
I want to rip the lot out, BUT, it appears to fit into the original wiring-harness & again, looks factory, reluctant to start pulling it as it also fits into the original radio sockets?? Do you think I can simply cut these & leave the Radio stuff, if that make sense.
 
modelman said:
Had 4 new tyres fitted yesterday, got real fed up inflating them every day!! The old ones were 2014 & cracked all over sidewalls & even everywhere between the tread, shame really as they all 7-8mm tread depth.:(
Already beginning to look better, even though it doesn't 'go' yet!!!
Started to remove the 'gooey' surface of the main dash panel, I'm sure its paint & from factory, as its the same on the inside when all the switches etc. are removed, tried all sorts & have ended up using paint-thinner, brutal I know, but once off, it leaves a nice clean surface to which I'm going to spray a new finish.
Even though the original Rover GPS works fine, its a dinosaur nowadays, so I will fit a new Garmin into the opening, after measuring, it looks like the 6" unit might just about go in with a little bit of 'modding'
Does anyone know anything about the 'Parrot' system?? the car seems to have a complete setup, theres a blue box under the HEVAC unit with many plugs & sockets going in & out, into the centre glove box terminating in various phone & mp3 adaptors, a small speaker in the footwell & a wire going up to something on the windscreen.
I want to rip the lot out, BUT, it appears to fit into the original wiring-harness & again, looks factory, reluctant to start pulling it as it also fits into the original radio sockets?? Do you think I can simply cut these & leave the Radio stuff, if that make sense.
Click to expand...
I have took a parrot system out of on old car and I did basically just rip it out and had no issues.

You shouldn’t really have any issues ripping it out as in theory it only splices into what’s existing rather than only going to the parrot.
 
modelman said:
Had 4 new tyres fitted yesterday, got real fed up inflating them every day!! The old ones were 2014 & cracked all over sidewalls & even everywhere between the tread, shame really as they all 7-8mm tread depth.:(
Already beginning to look better, even though it doesn't 'go' yet!!!
Started to remove the 'gooey' surface of the main dash panel, I'm sure its paint & from factory, as its the same on the inside when all the switches etc. are removed, tried all sorts & have ended up using paint-thinner, brutal I know, but once off, it leaves a nice clean surface to which I'm going to spray a new finish.
Even though the original Rover GPS works fine, its a dinosaur nowadays, so I will fit a new Garmin into the opening, after measuring, it looks like the 6" unit might just about go in with a little bit of 'modding'
Does anyone know anything about the 'Parrot' system?? the car seems to have a complete setup, theres a blue box under the HEVAC unit with many plugs & sockets going in & out, into the centre glove box terminating in various phone & mp3 adaptors, a small speaker in the footwell & a wire going up to something on the windscreen.
I want to rip the lot out, BUT, it appears to fit into the original wiring-harness & again, looks factory, reluctant to start pulling it as it also fits into the original radio sockets?? Do you think I can simply cut these & leave the Radio stuff, if that make sense.
Click to expand...
The thing up the windscreen will be the microphone probably. I had one in mine and it works great. The pillar trim just pulls square off, it's on spring clips.
 
There's a pair of mini mics up on the mirror, the 'thing' on the windscreen is actually part of the tax-disc holder so it may be an antenna of some sort.
 
I can confirm that the black 'gooey' stuff on the dash centre plastics are indeed painted, using paint-thinner, I managed to completely remove it all & have already re-sprayed a few bits satin black, they will look a whole bunch better than when I got it!!
As you can see, mine are grey injection molded ABS & will spray up nicely.
Also today managed to completely remove a ton of hi-fi wiring in readiness to retro-fit 'standard' in car stuff!
 

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Since all the dash/centre console is in a zillion bits, I thought id try & suss out the radio/speaker setup.
ALL the previous hi-power amp/speakers/crossovers & tons of wiring are now completely removed & I am left with what I hope is the original wiring & plugs etc.
Sourced original RR door speakers & am about to fit, each door still has 2 x 'T' speaker plugs & they APPEAR to look untouched & disappear into the main harness, BUT, when I connect a meter to the speaker plugs & the speaker multi-plug at the radio end, I get no continuity, same on all 4 doors. Confused, does the plug connect directly to the radio, or does all the speaker supplies go via the BeCM or someplace else???
I've looked a pics on internet of door amps, my car looks as though it never had them & there is no evidence of the long door amp plugs etc. It looks as though the speaker wires come straight into the doors via the flexi-rubber tube by the hinges.
OR, does everything become 'live' ( speakers ) when ign is on??
Am I missing the bleeding obvious??:confused:
After a real good inspection, I'm sure it never had door amps, there ARE door outstations, but speaker wiring goes nowhere near them, no evidence anywhere, its a 2002 DHSE .0
 
If I recall correctly the Harmon Kardon system has a sonewhat unusual inpedence of about half the usual ohms.

I cannot recall how the door speakers are routed but didn't pwood999 post a schematic recently?
 
All the doors have twisted pair from the head unit via the left & right footwell connectors (C207 & C208) to each door. Hence when the connectors corrode the audio suffers. Same applies to Low, Mid & High Line systems.

DSP systems also have connections near each door (RAVE says in Left & Right door jam ?
 
I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?

Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
 
modelman said:
I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?

Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
Click to expand...
Possibly a kill switch for the pump? Previous owner of my freelander fitted a hidden kill switch I mean who really steals freelanders but hey ho.
 
modelman said:
I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?

Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
Click to expand...
It might be a hot start fix if it goes to the coolant sensor.
 
Is the coolant sensor under the inlet, behind the pump then?
If so how would it work, shorting the sensor closed, thus telling the ecu its cold??
If so again, is it a good 'fix' ??
 
modelman said:
Is the coolant sensor under the inlet, behind the pump then?
If so how would it work, shorting the sensor closed, thus telling the ecu its cold??
If so again, is it a good 'fix' ??
Click to expand...
Basically it would be to fool the diesel ECU into thinking the engine is cold. It is not a good fix, much better to reset the modulation to where it should be which sorts the problem properly. The modulation goes out of spec due to chain stretch.
 
modelman said:
I don't think there's a corrosion problem as all the windows, locks, etc. work fine, what I'm asking is if there should be continuity from the speaker plugs directly to the radio plugs?

Just pulled the binnacle & replaced all the bulbs, all the displays seem to work fine now.
There is a non-standard flick-switch in front of the binnacle, no markings, traced the wires to the underside of the inlet manifold, somewhere near rear of the injection pump, any ideas??
Click to expand...
Yes for Low & Mid Line systems the speaker wires go to the radio plugs. For the High-Line it's the amplifier input connections that go to the radio plugs.

In all cases there should be continuity end to end, unless the footwell corrosions are not connecting !!
 
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