2.5 ton paperweight??

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Datatek said:
Basically it would be to fool the diesel ECU into thinking the engine is cold. It is not a good fix, much better to reset the modulation to where it should be which sorts the problem properly. The modulation goes out of spec due to chain stretch.
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OK, ill go for that, how does one 'reset the modulation' then???

Can a muppet like me do it at home, I do have the old original Rovacom.
 
modelman said:
OK, ill go for that, how does one 'reset the modulation' then???

Can a muppet like me do it at home, I do have the old original Rovacom.
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First step would be to see if you can see the modulation in live data with your Rovacom.
The engine needs to be at running temperature, ideally 95C to get the correct reading. If you get that far, I can give you an easy method of adjustment with just an engineers steel rule.
 
The Rovacom will read live date for the modulation, mine does, it is the for runner to the nanocom and runs through a lap top so you get a proper screen
 

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modelman said:
Ah, OK, that might be a few weeks/months away yet, I've only had it running for 30 seconds or so, all the insides are removed at the moment!
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When you are ready get in touch I'm not too far away and I've done modulation Data's way. I could give you a hand. It's very easy and very accurate. Got mine to 52%
 
Dti on the pump if you have one of them. Nanocom reads modulation don't know if your thing does
Datatek said:
The DTI method is a PITA and most people will be unable to get close to the required modulation of 50% at 95C.
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Agreed. Just a method if he didn't have access to live modulation .
Used your method with a nano if you remember keith? Mine was 80% iirc and ran crap.
 
modelman said:
Many thanks to everyone for the info, so this 'modulation' thing, is it a physical adjustment on the pump, or via the diagnostics??
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Modulation is a percentage of the timing of the injection on #4 cylinder from the needle lift sensor to that from the crank sensor. Should be around 50% at 750 rpm idle on an engine at normal operating temperature. As the timing chains stretch it tends to go up. Once past 90% you might notice the engine light flashing up as you lift off approaching roundabouts and junctions, that's because it has gone out of range and the car is stalling. A tired FIP and lift-pump can also increase your modulation a little.

The chains are bound to stretch a little over time so for higher mileage engines there's a couple of things to adjust. First the fuel injection pump static timing is adjusted. This is done by using a dial guage in the back of the pump and slackening off the FIP and shifting it to read the correct value, normally rotating it towards the engine a smidge. The other part is the camshaft. With this you use an appropriate sized shim under the cam locking tool before tightening up the (new) stretch camshaft bolt.

An alternative method if you have diagnostics is to mark the FIP position with a couple of marks and then slacken the FIP and tap it ever so slightly towards the engine until you get 50% modulation.

I have done both. I did the alternative method originally but then went back and used the proper method when I put a refurbed FIP on. The car started a lot easier after I rebuilt the top of the engine and set the (original) cam with an appropriate shim though. Of course, all the valves and gear are new so that probably helps as well. I'm on original chains and my modulation is above 50% but I barely touch the key before she fires up.
 
modelman said:
Many thanks to everyone for the info, so this 'modulation' thing, is it a physical adjustment on the pump, or via the diagnostics??
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Yes, it's a physical adjustment of the FIP by rotating it slightly on it's mountings. It can be done with the DTI tool but I defy any amateur to get close to 50% using the DTI. It can be done more easily and very accurately with my alternative method.
 
Datatek said:
Yes, it's a physical adjustment of the FIP by rotating it slightly on it's mountings. It can be done with the DTI tool but I defy any amateur to get close to 50% using the DTI. It can be done more easily and very accurately with my alternative method.
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Quite a few off have done it this way and as I said before very easy to do with diagnostics
 
I'll not be looking at the modulation for some time yet since everything's stripped out inside, so, thought I'd have a looksee at the pollen-filters, bit of a job hauling them out, seemed to be 'stuck' , this is what came out of EACH side!! What sort of 'pollen' is that then.:oops:
 

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modelman said:
Today I removed all the seats, main carpet & sill- plates etc. all dry, dis-connected the BeCM, checked it all over, seemed ok, nothing obvious as well, loosely refitted & re-connected all the wiring/plugs etc. This time it DID accept the key-code, no engine disabled indicated, turned key & the starter burst into life, but awful noise, turns out its hanging off!!, Tried to re-sync the key, & Wey-Hey, all the locks also burst into life, & it central-locks with the key!!!

Still don't know if the engine runs or gearbox will work yet!

Hooked up 6mm air pipes & manually pressed up the suspension, each corner went up about 6", it looked great, but it soon settled back down again, so maybe next week ill shove 4 new bags on, just ordered replacement seal kit for compressor & valve-block.
The radio has been removed, the speakers say 'Harman-Kardon' but that's all I know, there is a HUGE finger-thick copper cable, about 6m long running from the battery, right under the carpets to the boot area where the was obviously a large power-amp ( missing ) of some sort as well as 8 very thick speaker cables & a couple of big electrical boxes under the seats, to this wiring , what they are, I know not!

Question, would all this audio gear be original, or a retro-fit, as the size & quality of this stuff looks very expensive, I'm not bothered & a 'normal' head unit will be fitted, although I can find nothing in the dash wiring for a radio at the moment as all these audio cables have been brutally cut.

If & when I can get the engine & box working, then I'm prepared to spend a few bob 'tarting her up' so to speak!
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My manual inflation valves leak worse than any bag ever did.
 
A bit stumped today, need to remove the front carpet to attend to the 'propshaft-hole' & sort the damaged adjacent heater duct on the tunnel, but even though the centre console is off, along with HEVAC, radio, air-sus panel etc. I just cant seem to get the carpet out!!
There's a video on Youtube where a guy has his centre stripped out to the same level as mine, but his carpet is out, so what am I doing wrong??
It seems jammed tight under the middle dash assy. Or do I just pull the bugger??
 
Little update, rebuilt the compressor, then just fully rebuilt the valve-block as well, temporarily hooked up the electrics, fired her up, the compressor burst into life, & it must have taken a couple of minutes to press up the tank, then up she came, arse end first, then the front, i'll leave it overnight to see if it settles, got new bags ready just in case!!
Doing all that work from empty, the compressor was a bit hot!!
 
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