2.5 N/A to 3.9 V8 EFi Conversion

check its right wire from relay

After tonight i actually managed to get it to run! Although i had to send a straight feed from the battery to the fuel pump to get fuel. Everything else seems to work and run on the spot ok. Im still puzzled. The ecu is obviously working as the injectors are firing. But the white/purple wire to the pump isn't doing anything?? Both relays click by touch and sound. The wiring within the relays hasn't changed since i removed it intact from the donor vehicle

Hi Dom,

Hopefully i can be of some help even though James's advice on here has helped me hugely, i know how frustrating it is when all you want it to do is fire up!

Here is a list of all the connections i have made, bear in mind that these are all new connections and the only existing connections i have used are the cables for starter so the ignition turns the V8 over. I have also got 3 really good earth straps one at the front right hand side if your looking at the engine face on it goes from block to tab on the chassis, one at the rear from head earth bolt to bulkhead and another from head bolt to chassis.

At the multiplug i have the following;

Brown Wire - This goes to + on battery which is fused as a permanent live
White / Grey - This goes to switched ignition tab on ignition barrel
White / Purple - This goes to + on fuel pump, the neg on fuel pump goes to chassis
Black Wires x 2 - These go the right hand rear earth bolt if you are looking at the engine from the front
I have then put in another wire from switched ignition tab to + on Coil. Also on coil should be 2 wires for amplifier and the one that uses the same conduit as the mass airflow to say the engine is turning.

It was this one that caused me all the pain and the earth ones that are black once i had connected these the whole thing just came to life and this was after i had replaced (unnesserialy) boith main and fuel pump relays.

The relays should both click when you turn on the ignition, my fuel pump primes then approx 4 secs later the fuel pump relay clicks off again, it should also make the fuel pump run continuosly when cranking.

Although as you have said it will run with the fuel pump switched to a permanent live circuit its just not very safe.

To make it easy i just slaved everything in first and labelled what i had to stop confusion.

Take your ignition barrel out so its hanging and you have easy access to connections then slave the above cables in and see how you get on.

As i say the main thing was the earth cables so i went a bit ott and now its fine.

Ill try and post pictures later.

Josh

Cheers for the detailed reply josh! i have done as you have. With tidy connections to the back of the ignition barrel. Both relays click but there is just nothing control wise from the white/purple to +fuel pump. Abduls the pump earth is good as when the pump runs from perm 12v it still uses the same earth on chassis next to tank.

I think the problem lies within which remaining wires go where from the main multiplug.

My plug is brown. On mine the brown is brown/orange. The white/grey is white/green. Then there is thethe white/purple. These are connected as they should. Then remaining are two solid black. One of which is the cranking wire. Then the other solid black which i have no idea what it is. And Im sure there are two other small black with coloured trace wires but Im not at home so can't say what exactly they are.

Dom it sounds like you might have earth issues still as this happened to me before I connected the efi loom earth leads.

How many leads do you have on the block of the v8 as dedicated earths?
Does the remaining black wire have a tab or a bare end on it? Have you tested it for voltage if nothing maybe bolt it to the block and see what happens.

Just to confirm I have 2 earths from engine to chassis and 2 earths from efi loom to head of v8

Are you local to Hampshire?

Hi guys, havnt been on here for a while so thought id post a picture of further progress.



Very nearly got her running this afternoon but came across a problem i cant quite diagnose.

Obviously used to be a diesel so flushed the tank twice with petrol drained and replaced and same again. i connected up the fuel pump to the tank today but had the following problem which i dont like the sound of but cant work out what it is.

Engine turns over quickly then all of a sudden slows very quickly and then almost stops but its almost like the engine saps the battery and it dies so i have the battery on charge all of tonight. Im pretty sure there is no way of diesel getting to the engine but have a small doubt in my mind.

I have also put aftermarket ht leads on and now it wont fire as did the stupid thing of pulled it all off didnt mark anything and then guessed putting it back together, have heard bad things about aftermarket leads???

Can someone tell me the firing order on both sides of the engine and how i determine which port they go to on the dizzy cap and your thoughts on the engine would be appreciated.

I pulled all plugs out and all seem fine with a small amount of petrol on them.

Many Thanks
Josh

Got her running just had leads in wrong order so all is well had problem with the clutch as I used the existing slave cylinder from when it was diesel is this ok to do?

Went to drive her and clutch did nothing after I bled it 3 times took slave cylinder out from bell housing and the rod to the fork not connected????

I guess now I have to split engine and gearbox just to put clip from rod back on, does anyone have any easy tips other than taking out the engine completely as ivevalready done it 4 times and don't know if I can handle it again

you dont need to fit clip ,pressure from slave will hold it in place

Oh ok so I should be able to refit the rod as is without splitting ill give it a go thanks james

just hold rod in lever socket while pushing slave against it

I managed to fit mine back in without splitting, (tdi/LT77) long nose pliers bit of sticky stuff on back of clip and a good light pointing at it, its fiddly but possible.

Ok cool I shall have a go tomorrow and will let you know how I get on very near the point of booking MOT

You guys were right again tried fitting rod with clip for ages but just gave up in the end and fitted rod without clip and she works fine I now have a clutch so no need to split box and engine..........,result!

Fitted fans today used 2 Honda civic fans that run really well......however does the old diesel temp gauge in the dash work with the v8 or do I need to change it?

Reason I ask is did the first real run up today and needle went to just on the start of the red and then stayed there happily engine seemed happy but don't like needles in red so didn't know if temp ranges are different from a gauge point of view?

Will take more pics tomorrow and upload

Little update with some pictures and moooore questions for you guys;

Landy runs really sweet now, fitted slave cylinder rod without clip and seem to have a pretty nice clutch, after a short drive up and down a near lane it idle's really well and seems happy, have now learnt that the temp gauge reads differently so dont have overheating issues just need to change my gauge for a v8 one!

Still minging dirty but will put up some pics of when its all cleaned and finsihed soon as not far off now just little bits and pieces to do;





Cut out the rotten floor ready for some shiny chequerplate and found this lovely outrigger - think it needs replacing as its been patched many times by the look of it



This is the shot of my down pipes, can anyone advise which x member it is that i need i think its a disco 300 one that comes down but not sure and i cant get my original one in there as exhaust are in the way big time???



What is this brass fitting on the plenum? Should it be connected or can i remove it?
It looks pretty good for taking in loads of water so would rather put a hose on it or remove it but dont have a clue what it is?

Anyone able to help?

Is anybody at all able to shed some light on these bits please?

Don't know which crossmember you need... but it wouldn't be difficult to fabricate your own, even if you're only very average with a welder. Big bit of box section and a few bolts would do lovely

Would love to see a video of the conversion. What's the power like?

rrc v8 auto or other should fit

It's been quite a while since I posted last but progress is good on the conversion and she's running and sounding sweet have found a few things though which I need some help with.
Not getting any charge from alternator it's connected from alternator to starter motor, starter motor cable then goes to battery is this correct?

Also the engine I bought for this used to be auto and I bolted it to my manual there now seems to be a graunching noise coming from the flywheel area is this due to the box change and what do I need to change to make it right?

Had a hole in the old diesel rad so bought a new v8 one and bought a digital temp gauge in the end and bolted to my raptor dash so that's done floors are all replaced in chequerplate some pics to follow shortly