Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
Happy to help...
John
Series 3 1982 Series 3 SWB 2.25 petrol
- Thread starter btiratsoo
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
John
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
Here is the brake failure circuit info for everybody to see:
Brake failure warning circuit.
The wires from the brake sensors (servo and Shuttle valve) are black with white trace.
These go one to the bulb.......and one to C1 on the relay.......The white wire on the bulb will be a fused live from the fuse box.
The sensors work by making the black/white wire in to earth when they activate.
The relay has a switched live from stage 3 (starter) on the ignition switch, I think white and red. (W on the relay)
The C2 on the relay needs to go to earth........
So when you click the ignition and activate the starter the relay creates a contact between C1 and C2, linking earth to the black/white wire and thereby illuminating the bulb so you know it works. When you release the ignition back to stage 2 the relay circuit is broken and the light goes out, only coming on if the sensors indicate a fault......
Brake failure warning circuit.
The wires from the brake sensors (servo and Shuttle valve) are black with white trace.
These go one to the bulb.......and one to C1 on the relay.......The white wire on the bulb will be a fused live from the fuse box.
The sensors work by making the black/white wire in to earth when they activate.
The relay has a switched live from stage 3 (starter) on the ignition switch, I think white and red. (W on the relay)
The C2 on the relay needs to go to earth........
So when you click the ignition and activate the starter the relay creates a contact between C1 and C2, linking earth to the black/white wire and thereby illuminating the bulb so you know it works. When you release the ignition back to stage 2 the relay circuit is broken and the light goes out, only coming on if the sensors indicate a fault......
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
John, thank you for that. Now to find the wires and relays......
Rubins4
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 813
If it's supposed to light up on ignition as a test, mine doesn't work work. I'll try the bulb first.
Edit - Thanks for explaining that John. I think I have a circuit diagram somewhere I'll try and post up, with your explanation of the wiring that would be pretty useful in the future
Edit - Thanks for explaining that John. I think I have a circuit diagram somewhere I'll try and post up, with your explanation of the wiring that would be pretty useful in the future
Last edited:
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
The relay should be behind the little switch panel in the middle, it's a Lucas 6RA IIRC.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
Can't claim the credit for myself, this was sent to me by a member on LRUK to whom I shall be eternally grateful, if only I could remember who it was...
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
Well having sorted the brake test circuit thanks to Extreedoc, it wasn’t plugged in to the relay, I decided to change gearbox and transfer box oil. Overdrive oil was new having just been overhauled. Pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t leaking into the transfer box either.
Since buying the S3 it’s always had a little issue down shifting to 3rd gear. No problems, just double de clutch and she goes in lovely.
Anyway, today I finds out why, the 3rd gear synchro clip fell out with the old oil! Ha. Time to look into that repair now.
Much easier to fill the transfer box through the top cover as well!
The gearbox and transfer box were caked in about 10mm of thick mud, gunge, grease, cow **** and any other fetid substance found on Hampshire’s roads and lanes. Still, has preserved it nicely mind and the gearbox cross member has been very well preserved too!
On another note, the galvanising round the screen has either rotted off or been damaged at some point, an example in the picture below. Has anyone had any luck touching up areas like this with the cold galvanised spray?
Cheers,
Ben
Since buying the S3 it’s always had a little issue down shifting to 3rd gear. No problems, just double de clutch and she goes in lovely.
Anyway, today I finds out why, the 3rd gear synchro clip fell out with the old oil! Ha. Time to look into that repair now.
Much easier to fill the transfer box through the top cover as well!
The gearbox and transfer box were caked in about 10mm of thick mud, gunge, grease, cow **** and any other fetid substance found on Hampshire’s roads and lanes. Still, has preserved it nicely mind and the gearbox cross member has been very well preserved too!
On another note, the galvanising round the screen has either rotted off or been damaged at some point, an example in the picture below. Has anyone had any luck touching up areas like this with the cold galvanised spray?
Cheers,
Ben
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
I sprayed the repaired chassis on my Fiesta with galv spray in an aerosol can... it looks ok but I can't comment as to its durability.
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
Cheers John. That looks good but might be a bit too bright to go with the rest of the windscreen frame. I think the whole lot really could do with being galvanised again as I’d either end up spraying the whole thing or just have random silver patches...
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
I was thinking that you'd spray the whole frame...?
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
I would if I ended up spraying it. It would be better than painting it until it could be properly done. It’s had a repair at some point as the vertical centre strip has been welded top and bottom.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
Keep your eye open for a good second-hand one.
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
Yeah I reckon that’s probably the best way forward. Anyway, have you had anything to do with 3rd gear synchro?
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 505
- Location
- Leicestershire
I've rebuilt series gearboxes; not difficult but the gearbox has to be out... it is possible to replace the synchro springs from the top with the 'box in situ, fiddly but possible. Never done that but there are 'how-tos' online.
They should be about and are/were virtually worthless. About 18 months ago I ended up with three spares, two sold for £5 and the last one I couldn't even give away as it was missing one pane of glass.
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
Cheers Dag, will keep an eye out. I think the next project will be sorting the gearbox synchro, but that can wait till this winter. Tailgate and truck cab/ tilt roof first as well as fit the bench seats.
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,031
- Location
- west wales coast
I have replaced syncro springs by just removing the top,bit of a fiddle but not a huge job. May be worth a try and then run over the summer and see if it helps.
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
Cheers Tottot. Did you manage it ok? Did you follow this website or just do it your own way?
http://www.psych.usyd.edu.au/staff/johnh/synchro.html
http://www.psych.usyd.edu.au/staff/johnh/synchro.html
btiratsoo
Member
- Posts
- 56
- Location
- Hampshire, U.K.
So the next stage of making the S3 our own is to fit Series doors. I have someone lined up for the Defender doors. If anyone has a nice set of Series doors for sale, let me know otherwise it will be off the shelf items. Do any of you guys have any preferences as to who to buy the door bottoms and tops off?
Cheers
Ben
Cheers
Ben
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,015
- Location
- In the dog house
I bought my door bottoms from SP Landrover parts. Fit well and quality seems fine. I bought aluminium door tops from Rocky Mountain. These are really nice quality, don't rust but pricey
