Classic 175cd2/3/se/???

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Mark Piercy said:
I'll try and adjust the idle first, adjustment of the timing to suit the unleaded went rightnrightniber my head.. There are about 5 things to try tomorrow. Thank you all very much. :D
Click to expand...
See post #23 Mark on the SU's I removed the dashpots ,levelled the jets refitted the pots,topped with correct oil, balanced all three then mixture then idle.I had replaced all butterfly spindles,bearings and flaps as well as jets and needles. You may have more difficulty if the carbs are worn.
 

Attachments

  • 20170104_092009.jpg
    20170104_092009.jpg
    251.3 KB · Views: 123
kermit_rr said:
i don't know about anyone else but when I'm starting carb balancing from scratch, I'll use a feeler gauge to get the throttles approximately even as a good starting point
Click to expand...
Good point,I like @Stanleysteamer just assumed everyone knows the basic re carbs,I forget things have moved on so much I'm living in the past. :oops::D
 
aj1954 said:
I used to have a cheap neon timing light, absolutely useless unless it was dark.
Click to expand...
They were pretty useless weren't they?!
The powered ones, i.e. powered off the battery were a bit harder to set up and even harder where the batt was in the boot, like a Mini unless you had the sense to connect the positive to the starter cable or summat. But the strobe was powerful, bit of tippex and off you went! I have one that is also supposed to tell you the revs the engine is running at. That never worked so I use another gauge for that. Gunsons must have made a bit of money out of me in the past!
 
frog hopper said:
I don't wish to be the duffer trying to tell you experts what to do but, (and I'm not being sarky).
I had a 1985 110 V8 on those poxy strombergs and had loads of trouble with the tickover, the problem being that the bi-metalic self adjuster inside the plastic coffin on the side was old and knacked. The result being that when the engine was warm it would make the tickover run away, to control it I had to blip the throttle every minute to drop the revs back down, a pain in the arris in town driving. This might well skew your attempts at tuning if this is happening.
My solution was to change to a nice pair of su's I got for a very good price, stopped all that malarkey.
Click to expand...
Strombergs were only invented to get around patents on the SU. So were always going to be inferior, which they are, IMHO! SUs apparently very expensive now.:(:(:(
 
Last edited:
tomcat59alan said:
I've still got a £90 timing light I bought 30 odd years ago,was expensive at the time its been collecting dust in the garage since I last used it timing the E type.:)
Click to expand...
That must be one of those with a dial on the back you can use to alter the timing of the light to reflect revs, or something. Neighbour had one, it was quicker. Made by Snapon his was and yes they were pricey. I could never justify it.
 
kermit_rr said:
i don't know about anyone else but when I'm starting carb balancing from scratch, I'll use a feeler gauge to get the throttles approximately even as a good starting point
Click to expand...
A good starting point, but even better if you insert a thin drill bit down the barrel of the carb to set the butterfly, there is room for error with a feeler gauge due to the width and springiness of it. But hey, we all have our own ways of doing it! Or were you talking about using a feeler gauge in some other way, like under the throttle screws?
Another way is to undo the linkage, obvs, then let the butterfly sit closed inside the barrel, turn the throttle screw until there is no clearance then wind both in exactly the same amount.
Loads of ways!
I'm really enjoying this thread!:D:D:D:D
 
Stanleysteamer said:
A good starting point, but even better if you insert a thin drill bit down the barrel of the carb to set the butterfly, there is room for error with a feeler gauge due to the width and springiness of it. But hey, we all have our own ways of doing it! Or were you talking about using a feeler gauge in some other way, like under the throttle screws?
Another way is to undo the linkage, obvs, then let the butterfly sit closed inside the barrel, turn the throttle screw until there is no clearance then wind both in exactly the same amount.
Loads of ways!
I'm really enjoying this thread!:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
drill bit is good if you have access ;) just remember to adjust the revs before starting up :p
 
So..... Here we go,
Thank you to @Marshall8hp who called me this morning from the land Australia, Top bloke.
The second carb is a touch rich, just.
The primary carb is lean, very.
I balanced as best I could via and tube them both independently and with the throttle linkage attached.
The second carb responds beautifully to being opened and shut, the primary guffs unless I cover 90% of the opening, then it behaves like the second carb.
So the tools are on order to cure the mixture and accurately check the balance between them.
This morning after resetting the balance it now runs on idle by itself.
It's frustrating as my experience is somewhat limited in the area but you all have made it easier to deal with and now armed with a lot of tips and tricks to set up the best I can with out the owner pushing for another set of unknown carbs. :cool::D
 
Stanleysteamer said:
A good starting point, but even better if you insert a thin drill bit down the barrel of the carb to set the butterfly, there is room for error with a feeler gauge due to the width and springiness of it. But hey, we all have our own ways of doing it! Or were you talking about using a feeler gauge in some other way, like under the throttle screws?
Another way is to undo the linkage, obvs, then let the butterfly sit closed inside the barrel, turn the throttle screw until there is no clearance then wind both in exactly the same amount.
Loads of ways!
I'm really enjoying this thread!:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...
Just playing Elian Page "Memories " while I read this.
 
Mark Piercy said:
So..... Here we go,
Thank you to @Marshall8hp who called me this morning from the land Australia, Top bloke.
The second carb is a touch rich, just.
The primary carb is lean, very.
I balanced as best I could via and tube them both independently and with the throttle linkage attached.
The second carb responds beautifully to being opened and shut, the primary guffs unless I cover 90% of the opening, then it behaves like the second carb.
So the tools are on order to cure the mixture and accurately check the balance between them.
This morning after resetting the balance it now runs on idle by itself.
It's frustrating as my experience is somewhat limited in the area but you all have made it easier to deal with and now armed with a lot of tips and tricks to set up the best I can with out the owner pushing for another set of unknown carbs. :cool::D
Click to expand...
TBH, as most of the carbs I work on are worn, I roughly balance them on tickover, then wind both throttle screws up quite a way. (Things getting noisier now!) and balance them at higher revs. Once they are balanced at higher revs, I then turn the engine off, reconnect the linkages and wind both throttles back down an equal amount to get to somewhere near tickover. I then restart the engine and use the throttle screws to sort it out as a "best fit". It may be a bit lumpy but at least I know that once beans are given it should drive OK.
Only problem happens if you get a flat spot off tickover as a result. This was/is the problem with wifey's Porsche copy, with twin Weber downdraughts, although a lot of the prob is the dizzy. The stupid garage got a so-called expert to play with the tune, totally unasked for by us, when they were failing in successfully changing the clutch plate. As a result, once it got warm I was a liability driving the semi-auto car home in second. The flt spot was like the top of table mountain, and no chance of revving it up to get it to take off, due to the semi-auto!
Sooooooo! As with much in life, tune is often a compromise and it is obvious one carb is worn more than the other. Get the mixtures right and you will be a lot better off!
Looking forward to hearing how it goes once you have the flipping tools. To think an SU can more or less be tuned with fingers and a screwdriver.
Ideally this is what is needed! https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2336316965...MI7pKo5-3m7AIVg7p3Ch2oCgZzEAQYBCABEgKZwfD_BwE
But the price, especially courriered to France!
AND it might not fit his manifold, :rolleyes:
 
+1 on SU's are easier. I'm sure a pair will turn up on eBay eventually !! Otherwise you could put a request on one of those online breakers sites, where they put the request out to lots of scrappies for offers. Then they bid downwards for your business.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
TBH, as most of the carbs I work on are worn, I roughly balance them on tickover, then wind both throttle screws up quite a way. (Things getting noisier now!) and balance them at higher revs. Once they are balanced at higher revs, I then turn the engine off, reconnect the linkages and wind both throttles back down an equal amount to get to somewhere near tickover. I then restart the engine and use the throttle screws to sort it out as a "best fit". It may be a bit lumpy but at least I know that once beans are given it should drive OK.
Only problem happens if you get a flat spot off tickover as a result. This was/is the problem with wifey's Porsche copy, with twin Weber downdraughts, although a lot of the prob is the dizzy. The stupid garage got a so-called expert to play with the tune, totally unasked for by us, when they were failing in successfully changing the clutch plate. As a result, once it got warm I was a liability driving the semi-auto car home in second. The flt spot was like the top of table mountain, and no chance of revving it up to get it to take off, due to the semi-auto!
Sooooooo! As with much in life, tune is often a compromise and it is obvious one carb is worn more than the other. Get the mixtures right and you will be a lot better off!
Looking forward to hearing how it goes once you have the flipping tools. To think an SU can more or less be tuned with fingers and a screwdriver.
Ideally this is what is needed! https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/2336316965...MI7pKo5-3m7AIVg7p3Ch2oCgZzEAQYBCABEgKZwfD_BwE
But the price, especially courriered to France!
AND it might not fit his manifold, :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Damn sexy carbs man. :)
Understood, putting them to a standard and adjusting them to suit their individual condition. o_O

adrian hogg said:
I would go for SU's myself try contacting this guy he may have a decent pair from a P5B https://www.davidgreen-p5.co.uk
Click to expand...
Arrr the rover p5b... Niiiice :D
Thank you for your suggestions:cool:;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Shortmoor Landy
Series 3 petrol
Replies
13
Views
2K
Shortmoor Landy
Shortmoor Landy
T
Ring gap, new rings? Or new pistons?
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
ThomasLRNL
T
M
P38 new problem with abs and traction fault
2
Replies
39
Views
923
DanClarke
DanClarke
tweedandbriar
Defender 110 Light Bar Wiring Question
Replies
19
Views
854
tweedandbriar
tweedandbriar
A
River 3.5 v8 no compression in #5
Replies
4
Views
2K
v8250
v8250
Back
Top