Henry_b
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It is is possible, however with the choke on it wants more fuel, sounds like it's running lean myself.
Classic 175cd2/3/se/???
- Thread starter Mark Piercy
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tomcat59alan
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Ooo Offenhauser inlet manifold?I should admit I fix most Strommie carbs by removing them and tossing them in the nearest skip and replacing them with one of these
View attachment 222501
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Thats true, but it won't idle either without it.
The story is, I don't know the story... I'm reluctant to reset or move anything without a little more knowing and the tools. So I'm fishing until my reel burns baby!!!
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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Have you lifted the dashpot/needle with the engine running?
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I've lifted very slightly each piston in return to get a reaction but not a great deal of disturbance happens apart from a hicup...
Henry_b
Think outside, no box required.
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A rule of thumb is if the mixture is correct the engine speed should rise slightly for a moment, then return again to normal.
If it rises and stays fast the mixture is far too rich.
If the engine dies when the pin is lifted, it is too weak
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Got it, I'm writing this down...
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I'll be looking for the adjustment tool on the flebay
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Wonder if that Gunsons thing is still around that replaces a plug and allows one to see the colour of the flame in the cylinder.
Still got all this stuff and love using it. To me it is such a shame, or even funny, that what to my generation and many before seemed to be delivered with mother's milk now has to be explained to the younguns!
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I've got the gunson tool. It worked wanders on a 1952 armstrong siddely I did. That was just the one carb. Thankfully. That's the next thing. Nice suggestion.
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I'm old fashioned and don't care. Carbs and dizzys are tangible, you can adjust them with your fingers or a screwdriver, they simply just work.
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Wouldn't mind but cars made since i passed my test have all had fool injected
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Are there vacuum ports after the carbs ? If so get two vacuum gauges so you can measure them both at same time & see any impact of either adjustment. Also check gauge calibration by using a T-piece & single vacuum feed. Double check all the mechanical adjustments are the same before starting, and replace any old oil from the dampers with the correct viscosity.
Last time I did twin carbs was on my Rover SD1 V8, which was SU not Stromberg, but the process should be basically the same. Preset the mixture screw first. If the jets & floats are correctly set, you should now be able to get the engine to warm up & idle without choke. Then go through the process of adjusting idle & mixture.
Last time I did twin carbs was on my Rover SD1 V8, which was SU not Stromberg, but the process should be basically the same. Preset the mixture screw first. If the jets & floats are correctly set, you should now be able to get the engine to warm up & idle without choke. Then go through the process of adjusting idle & mixture.
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God you're young!
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In my experience, with SUs, and therefore maybe others, once they have done a high mileage, the throttle spindle bearings wear, so you can set them up to tickover fine, well more or less, but on acceleration they fu ck up.
So you have to either fix them or compromise! There are lots of bodgy type fixes. Lots of fun!
Now then!
Who's for plug cuts!
So you have to either fix them or compromise! There are lots of bodgy type fixes. Lots of fun!
Now then!
Who's for plug cuts!
Are you saying 59 is not there? That’s not going to help
here tool https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RX1222LRRR
J
Ian M in France
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I used to use 2 colour tuner kits one on each of the carbs on my tr7 to set up and balance, I have not seen them for years but used to find them great
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