110 defender rebuild project and v8 conversion

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Pretty sure they're just a standard m10 thread, from what I remember when I sheered one of mine off.
Although I would just use the proper bolts. part number UYG500050 from memory.
 
It's the same head pattern as the hub-to-disc bolts, and calipers to mount bolts... Is that bi-hex then?

So 3/8 UNC thread and inch and a quarter long.... I'll give oxon fastenings a call. Have to try and blag an extra long lunch break tomorrow.
 
aaronmorris said:
Pretty sure they're just a standard m10 thread, from what I remember when I sheered one of mine off.
Although I would just use the proper bolts. part number UYG500050 from memory.
Click to expand...

ordered some of that part number from LR direct.

turns out they're a "dowel bolt" or "fitted bolt", so the smooth section is a greater diameter than the threaded section. Apparently people do use set screws instead, but there's a few mild reported issue. I'd rather use the proper job on balance.

As previously stated, they're listed as m10 double-hex/bi-hex bolts.
 
Yes, when I did mine I just bought the relevant Land Rover part numbered bolts. Not too dear and then at least you're using the correct thing, so no one can complain or say the vehicle was incorrectly maintained if there ever was an accident. Mine were metric (2006), but maybe they're imperial on older models.
 
Friday night conundrum for you wise folks:

E0azB2i.jpg


that black thing is my shiny galv (then painted) gearbox crossmember from richards chassis.... the rusty job is the original from the 300tdi.... what the hell am I supposed to do with gearbox mounts with that new thing?

perhaps something I should have spotted earlier, but I guess my worse case it getting the original blasted and painted up.
 
Great work and great thread.....

...........thoroughly unimpressed with companies like this who do not have a good double checking system and waste time for enthusiasts like you....all that money and they don't check I hope they look after you
 
That's the older 200Tdi gear box cross member IIRC

It's looking like a cracking job, mate. Very smart indeed.

My full body paint job, all separate panels, cost £1500 and I'm very pleased with it. I did do a lot of the prep work myself though.

Keep the updates coming. Loving them :)
 
I am using a rrc crossmember, it is tubular and tapers up at the sides to give room for exhausts, mine is auto so not sure if you would need the same one or not, I had a rectangular box type before that but didn't fit under the autobox
 
farmershort said:
A whole Saturday and several drill bits gone...

The bolt is out!
Click to expand...

I feel your pain! I stripped 5 axles at the start of my build and sheered 3 bolts. Tried to use normal drill bits I had (cheap), but brand new, wouldn't even touch it.
Ended up buying some dormer cobalt drill bits at great expense but they did the job very well. Not something I want to have to do again anytime soon though.
 
The mate (Jon) who cam to give me a hand on saturday (and then share in victory beers on saturday night), did indeed once again try to convince me to do the paint job myself. I've had a look at that "paintman" website, and the prices and colour range seem good.

My mate Jon reckons that the "prep" that most spray places do amounts to using a cutting compound on a polishing machine, then rinse with isopropyl alcohol. I'm quite happy to invest in that kit if that's really all there is to it. I'm trying to source a newish rear tub to save having to mess about with replacing cappings, floor supports, etc. Will see how that goes.

In the mean time, Richards asked if they could have a photo of the incorrect g/box xmember, which I have duly sent them. I *may* have mentioned that ths build thread was online...
 
You can buy a lot of paint and tools for £1500................


..............just saying!


Even if you have to do it twice or three times or four times or............
 
No photos from this evening, but my swivel ball to axle bolts arrived! Many thanks lrdirect! I only paid for 14 and they sent me 2 x 10 piece bags. Nice. I did re use the old washers.

The n/s ball is now fitted with no drama, and then I started looking at the casting part of the swivel... I had hoped to clean it up with meths and use it as is, but it was just to scabby and skanky to contemplate!

Cue over an hour with a drill and wire brush, a rub over with meths to remove dust, and then a coating of kurust. I coated the mating surfaces in a bit of grease first to stop the kurust getting on them.

I'll spray them tomorrow.

I blame Aaron... I was reading his threads today! :)
 
I'm going try this photo attachment doobry.

I got the a-frame installed tonight without too much drama. I was unable to tighten up the big bolts which attach the arms to the chassis brackets.... Inch and an eighth! What in gods name were thinking using such a naff sized bolt!?! I've now got to order an inch and an eighth six walled socket.
20160202_185905.jpg
I'm also waiting for the primer to dry on the swivel castings.

20160202_175457.jpg


Plan for the week is:

Weds: Look over fueling bits which should arrive tomorrow, and paint swivel castings.

Thurs: complete swivel ball and stub axle fitting

Fri: finish up from Thurs and attach wheels.

Rear axle brake lines need to fit in there somewhere too, so well see how it goes.

This is where we are:

20160202_185915.jpg
 
Tonight is more or less a night off. I've been out and had a look over the old rear brake pipe. I'd forgotten about the bracket to hold the 3 way brake union... That'll need cleaning up.

I've got the final coat of paint on the housings:

20160203_153133.jpg


And 1 litre of ' test paint' arrived so that I can have a play... Just need a decent compressor and a paint gun now..

20160203_153315.jpg
 
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