greyhair
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- IN MY SHED
That;s the color i went for in the end, just fitted the bulkhead and must say with the pedals all in panted black it looks very nice
110 defender rebuild project and v8 conversion
- Thread starter farmershort
- Start date
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That;s the color i went for in the end, just fitted the bulkhead and must say with the pedals all in panted black it looks very nice
farmershort
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Richards came through with the goods!
I just hope it fits the chassis holes now!
I just hope it fits the chassis holes now!
farmershort
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- West Berkshire
It's been a bit of a low week really. I've had a couple of goes at finding the best to form the rear brake pipe. I tried doing it in one whole length first (the longest side), but that just looked a bit naff. In the end I formed the first end on the n/s rear caliper, screwed it in, and then formed the shape from there, working towards the dif. I've run into a blockage figuring out which screw/bolts to use to attach my nice stainless P clips to the axle. A selection box of stainless self tappers should be arriving at some point.
my grand claims of "wheels on by friday" have come to nothing yet again... well, not quite nothing... I decided that getting the bulkhead off the donor was far more important. The front stub axle inner oil seals arrived yesterday, so I hope to get close to completing the front stubs & hubs tonight. With any luck, Ashtree should be collecting the bulkhead on Friday (tomorrow), which will give me a lot more room in the garage again.
I've decided that I'm going to be a bit more methodical before putting the wheels on... there's still plenty of jobs which are much more easily finished with the wheels off.... brake pipes, pads in the calipers, new steering box, drag link & panhard rod, track rod... etc. I'll set about getting those done over the weekend, and see if I'm then at a sensible point to get the wheel on. I know that once the wheels are on, I can then mount the engine, fit the front struts, fit the gearbox x-member, and fit the gbox and tbox.... exciting times!
The fuel pump and sended are still on the coffee table in the lounge, and I'm still working on the right combo. I'll post some pics up once I've figured out exactly the right solution.
Exhaust needs to be thought about soon too.... And all of that brake/clutch vacuum business.... and anything else that's going on the bulkhead..... oh.... and learning to spray paint!!!
I reckon only about 30 or 40% of the time going into this project is actually being spent in the garage... the rest is on researching parts, ordering parts, and education.
my grand claims of "wheels on by friday" have come to nothing yet again... well, not quite nothing... I decided that getting the bulkhead off the donor was far more important. The front stub axle inner oil seals arrived yesterday, so I hope to get close to completing the front stubs & hubs tonight. With any luck, Ashtree should be collecting the bulkhead on Friday (tomorrow), which will give me a lot more room in the garage again.
I've decided that I'm going to be a bit more methodical before putting the wheels on... there's still plenty of jobs which are much more easily finished with the wheels off.... brake pipes, pads in the calipers, new steering box, drag link & panhard rod, track rod... etc. I'll set about getting those done over the weekend, and see if I'm then at a sensible point to get the wheel on. I know that once the wheels are on, I can then mount the engine, fit the front struts, fit the gearbox x-member, and fit the gbox and tbox.... exciting times!
The fuel pump and sended are still on the coffee table in the lounge, and I'm still working on the right combo. I'll post some pics up once I've figured out exactly the right solution.
Exhaust needs to be thought about soon too.... And all of that brake/clutch vacuum business.... and anything else that's going on the bulkhead..... oh.... and learning to spray paint!!!
I reckon only about 30 or 40% of the time going into this project is actually being spent in the garage... the rest is on researching parts, ordering parts, and education.
farmershort
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- West Berkshire
New steering box loosley fitted:
And I managed to get both stub axles on, as well as the drivers side hub/disc.
Need to do the n/s hub/disc tomorrow night, and both calipers.
And I managed to get both stub axles on, as well as the drivers side hub/disc.
Need to do the n/s hub/disc tomorrow night, and both calipers.
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Don't think of it as a low week, mate. What you are doing is very complex. Things do not often go to plan and often take a lot longer than you think they will. Three, four, ten times longer than you think. There's many a job that I have thought would take me 15 mins and two hours later I'm still on with it. It's not a low week, it's just the way it is.
It's worth remembering, if it was dead easy there'd be no satisfaction in it.
To keep myself sane that's what I keep saying to myself.
It's worth remembering, if it was dead easy there'd be no satisfaction in it.
To keep myself sane that's what I keep saying to myself.
farmershort
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Don't think of it as a low week, mate. What you are doing is very complex. Things do not often go to plan and often take a lot longer than you think they will. Three, four, ten times longer than you think. There's many a job that I have thought would take me 15 mins and two hours later I'm still on with it. It's not a low week, it's just the way it is.
It's worth remembering, if it was dead easy there'd be no satisfaction in it.
Thanks for the supportive comments chap. I think I have a slight sense that the most complicated stuff is yet to come, and perhaps all I've achieved is a bit "heavy engineering", which doesn't take much thinking about... perhaps a bit OTT, but I am a little apprehensive about the wiring and engine/fuel setup... it'll happen, and it'll happen in the same slow steady way as it has been. I just need to get back to the one-job-at-a-time focus.
Things have become slightly more complicated now that we're viewing smallholdings!!!!!!! We're planning on doing that this year, but we don't really get the choice of when. it's whenever the right thing comes on the market. That means my jag-like interior dreams are going to be shelved in favour of saving the money. every penny I spend on the landy now comes out of the deposit pot, which adds a little pressure. I'm still going to do it properly (my version anyway), and not cut corners, but I'm not going splashing out on fancy bits for the moment. That all sounds more dramatic then I mean, but essentially I mean I'm following the same pattern of bearmach or OEM parts, and just steering clear of the really high end stuff. The fancy bits can always be added at a later date.
I just hope I can get the thing running before we have to move again!!!!!
farmershort
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N/s hub and disc on.
Calipers and brake lines next.
Calipers and brake lines next.
farmershort
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Went to view a smallholding in Somerset today, so didn't get much done in the garage.
Ashtree did come to collect my bulkhead though, which is great. I also gave they my seatbox as they think they might be able to save it... Fingers crossed.
Ashtree did come to collect my bulkhead though, which is great. I also gave they my seatbox as they think they might be able to save it... Fingers crossed.
Pricilla
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small holding sounds very exciting...quite envious...what are you going to farm?
farmershort
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Sheep and pigs initially. A few years ago we used to rent land in Leicestershire and kept our own flock of sheep and a fair few pigs there, so we've got some practice.
We're very excited, but it's also terrifying at the values being talked about. Still, this is what happens with property prices...
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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Sounds interesting!
Pics would be welcome! Or maybe post your own fred about it?https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/livestock-arable-veg-and-farm-kit.294851/
farmershort
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Sounds interesting!
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/livestock-arable-veg-and-farm-kit.294851/
Ah nice idea! You never know, LZ may have had enough of me after this build, so it may be academic.
We're just viewing things at the moment, and I have this suspicion that "the right thing" might only come up once or twice this year. We may find it next week, or then again not till December.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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Wouldnt worry about it! Some of the other build freds are mahoosive, and no-one has a problem with it!
Makes us feel good that we aint doing it ourselves! You are right to think it will not be easy, or necessarily quick. The demand for housing and ag land, especially in small parcels, is fierce, especially in your area. I used to live not far away, on a rented smallholding in the Hampshire Downs. Would have loved to farm there, but no way I could afford it even in the 80s!
Pricilla
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...it is a dream I have aswell, I have just completed two animal husbandry courses .....pigs and goats...I like goats, when you go in a field they run to you not away...but yes land is so expensive...so it will be a long look, I keep doing the lottery as part of my very high risk investment portfolio!! no luck yet!
farmershort
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Perhaps getting a little ahead of myself, but these arrived today:
3 seats all in xs trim. End seats are with heated bases.
3 seats all in xs trim. End seats are with heated bases.
farmershort
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I'm getting a bit peed off with the front brake pipes.... Any advice anyone?
I've wasted at least 2 evening so far, and they're proving a bugger to bend out of cupronickle... Not happy with the way they promise to crash into the spring seats, and not that keen on the severity of the bends.
I've wasted at least 2 evening so far, and they're proving a bugger to bend out of cupronickle... Not happy with the way they promise to crash into the spring seats, and not that keen on the severity of the bends.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
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They look bloody neat to me bud, they are pretty close to the spring seat from factory, but if the stop locks are set correctly then surely their is no way they could hit them, unless of course you had a mishap whilst driving and something bent etc..
If you're really not that happy with them then you could buy by part number pre made and bent to shape, albeit out of steel.
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Whatever they're made of they've got to have some tight bends in them I'm afraid. The clearances are very tight. Provided they don't actually rub on anything going from lock to lock you should be OK. After all, the hubs and stub axles aren't supposed to be too wobbly, so a few mm of clearance is all you need.
farmershort
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couple of updates:
Ashcrofts called me this morning to say the seatbox has been repaired (the one I thought was truly beyond saving) and they're galv'ing the trays for me. The bulkhead is also repaired, and is off to the galvers today. Apparently it'll be back with me sometime next week. All a lot quicker that I thought.
I've deviced what I'm going to with the brake pipes.... I'm going to use the ones I made on tuesday as a length guide, then make up some new ones. The process of making them up was like this (for any other noobs reading):
cut piece of straight cupronickel to length
make your concave end flare using the flaring tool (is that din2?)
slide a new female brake union over the concave flare in such a way that the flare is inside the union.
slide on a new male union, facing the opposite way
make your convex flare (din1?) at the other end, such that the male union will sit against it.
using a piece of suitable size pipe/bar held in a vice, make the first bend at the female-end of the brake pipe, by bending the cupronickel around said bar/pipe. I used the handle off a press
Take your new pipe to the caliper, and attach the female union to the flexi hose (braided in my case), through the swivel-housing-top-pin-bracket.
using suitable metal bars and a lot of care, make the other bends such the male end of the pipe ends up entering the hole in the caliper at 90 degrees.
The reason I've struggled with this is 3 fold:
1) work hardening... once you've bent the cupronickle once, that's it's shape... mess around any more and it'll weaken.
2) The original is such an odd shape, that's it hard to get a 100% perfect copy without proper bending machines
3) I have no confidence in the amount the support bracket has moved/bent during removal and refitting... this changes things only very slightly, but enough t make the pipe foul the spring seat.
There's 2 things I need to do tonight to ensure I've got the clearance:
1) work out what lock-to-lock actually is, as with no track rod, stop bolt, etc hooked up yet, the swivels have a lot more play than they should
2) route the brake pipe a litle closer to the caliper, so it "hugs" it right up until the point that is has to dive-out to achieve the re-entry angle into the caliper.
Ashcrofts called me this morning to say the seatbox has been repaired (the one I thought was truly beyond saving) and they're galv'ing the trays for me. The bulkhead is also repaired, and is off to the galvers today. Apparently it'll be back with me sometime next week. All a lot quicker that I thought.
I've deviced what I'm going to with the brake pipes.... I'm going to use the ones I made on tuesday as a length guide, then make up some new ones. The process of making them up was like this (for any other noobs reading):
cut piece of straight cupronickel to length
make your concave end flare using the flaring tool (is that din2?)
slide a new female brake union over the concave flare in such a way that the flare is inside the union.
slide on a new male union, facing the opposite way
make your convex flare (din1?) at the other end, such that the male union will sit against it.
using a piece of suitable size pipe/bar held in a vice, make the first bend at the female-end of the brake pipe, by bending the cupronickel around said bar/pipe. I used the handle off a press
Take your new pipe to the caliper, and attach the female union to the flexi hose (braided in my case), through the swivel-housing-top-pin-bracket.
using suitable metal bars and a lot of care, make the other bends such the male end of the pipe ends up entering the hole in the caliper at 90 degrees.
The reason I've struggled with this is 3 fold:
1) work hardening... once you've bent the cupronickle once, that's it's shape... mess around any more and it'll weaken.
2) The original is such an odd shape, that's it hard to get a 100% perfect copy without proper bending machines
3) I have no confidence in the amount the support bracket has moved/bent during removal and refitting... this changes things only very slightly, but enough t make the pipe foul the spring seat.
There's 2 things I need to do tonight to ensure I've got the clearance:
1) work out what lock-to-lock actually is, as with no track rod, stop bolt, etc hooked up yet, the swivels have a lot more play than they should
2) route the brake pipe a litle closer to the caliper, so it "hugs" it right up until the point that is has to dive-out to achieve the re-entry angle into the caliper.
