Me again - really need some help...

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gemsdad said:
ratty,have you ever used that metal putty stuff,i have and found it to be good,dont know about whether it would mend something with fuel vapours etc on it???
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yep. I usually use summit a bit like quick steel. I can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but it's for boats, so sets even when under water. It's great as an emergency repair on radiators and coolant hose joints etc. Tis bloody pricey though. The company don't pay for consumables so I only get it when I have excess cash laying about. (Thats not very often:eek:).
 
like you said its good stuff,i think the company you work for should pay for stuff like that,it could cut down the time you have to spend on the vehicle and it would get the motorist back on the road.:mad:
 
ratty said:
yep. I usually use summit a bit like quick steel. I can't remember the name of it off the top of my head but it's for boats, so sets even when under water. It's great as an emergency repair on radiators and coolant hose joints etc. Tis bloody pricey though. The company don't pay for consumables so I only get it when I have excess cash laying about. (Thats not very often:eek:).
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you could always cut out the chips though.ha,ha.:eek::eek:
 
gemsdad said:
like you said its good stuff,i think the company you work for should pay for stuff like that,it could cut down the time you have to spend on the vehicle and it would get the motorist back on the road.:mad:
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The problem is there's always members of staff that take the **** and take advantage. This then ruins it for those of us that don't.

Customers seem to think that just cos they are a member of a breakdown club they shouldn't have to pay anorl. A single large type blade fuse is between £1 and £2. If you ask a customer to pay for it they complain about how stingy we are. Those couple of pounds here and there soon mount up.:( Same goes for headlight bulbs, exhaust repair joints, instant gasket, coil packs, rotor arms, nut and bolts etc. I try and keep a stock of both used and new parts. I try and hold things like used coil packs back to use for those that are in desperate need (people on there way on holiday etc).


gemsdad said:
you could always cut out the chips though.ha,ha.:eek::eek:
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:mad::mad::mad:bastid:mad::mad::mad:

It'll never happen.:p
 
well kwikfit tightened the bolts.. didn't replace the dodgy gasket so still blowing a little but no more smell in cabin and noise much lower..

on way back took it for a run round the back way through bradford on avon and the temp shot up on the long straight.. nowhere near red but went from normal 1/2 8 to about 10 o clock.. then dropped again really quickly as soon as I got back on the slower roads.. I know that's classic sign of a blocked rad or that I still have an airlock but also wonder if I might have the timing still out a little as it isn't pulling as hard as it used to.. so gonna have a tweak and a fiddle later on se if I can get either some air out or the timing a bit closer...
 
mjltigger said:
well kwikfit tightened the bolts.. didn't replace the dodgy gasket so still blowing a little but no more smell in cabin and noise much lower..

on way back took it for a run round the back way through bradford on avon and the temp shot up on the long straight.. nowhere near red but went from normal 1/2 8 to about 10 o clock.. then dropped again really quickly as soon as I got back on the slower roads.. I know that's classic sign of a blocked rad or that I still have an airlock but also wonder if I might have the timing still out a little as it isn't pulling as hard as it used to.. so gonna have a tweak and a fiddle later on se if I can get either some air out or the timing a bit closer...
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Glad to hear you are mobile. Might be worth popping the plugs out and having a look to see what colour they are. Take your rad out and give it a thorough clean then back flush it.

To check your ignition timing I think you're going to need a strobe light if there is a question mark about where it is running. Don't forget if setting timing with strobe, disconnect vac advance and plug the hose, make sure engine is up to temperature and has an even idle.
 
Kev, you hit the nail on the head.. I forgot to unplug the vac adv ance when I was trying to set static timing.. DOH..

pretty pressed for time to do the rad.. but thinking it would erradicate one more poss issue..
 
mjltigger said:
still getting hot on load.. thermostat out next just looking it up in the rave.. no time for more mistakes
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Are you sure the rad aint blocked. The salisbury mud sets like concrete and is a bastid to get out your rad. When I blocked mine on my last landy, The amount of mud that came out it looked like I had washed the entire vehicle and not just the rad.

Can you see through the fins clearly? My money is on fecked rad.
 
ratty said:
Are you sure the rad aint blocked. The salisbury mud sets like concrete and is a bastid to get out your rad. When I blocked mine on my last landy, The amount of mud that came out it looked like I had washed the entire vehicle and not just the rad.

Can you see through the fins clearly? My money is on fecked rad.
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might not be a bad thing stop the water getting to the dizzy
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
 
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