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- Benfleet, Essex
No, But it's Open Cct. At least its plugging the hole for now.
P38A The dreaded Traction Control & ABS Fault lights.
- Thread starter DanClarke
- Start date
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RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
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- 14,833
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- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
You make it sound easy 
- Posts
- 17,908
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
Yay! it is now FIXED!
Put a new ABS Sensor in (didn't even have to remove the wheel), I just scooted under the vehicle on my back.
I don't expect it to last too long as the new one had the rubber positioning grommets in the wrong placed on the lead; and they didn't like being moved.
Volts reported at stationary are 2.25v (all the others are 2.33v).
Cleared all the faults with my Nanocom and she's all sorted.
A little test drive to the petrol station & back for a fill-up.
Job-Jobbed.
Put a new ABS Sensor in (didn't even have to remove the wheel), I just scooted under the vehicle on my back.
I don't expect it to last too long as the new one had the rubber positioning grommets in the wrong placed on the lead; and they didn't like being moved.
Volts reported at stationary are 2.25v (all the others are 2.33v).
Cleared all the faults with my Nanocom and she's all sorted.
A little test drive to the petrol station & back for a fill-up.
Job-Jobbed.
- Posts
- 37,657
- Location
- North Shropshire
Wish mine was that easy! I can only assume it's a reluctor ring problem.. or whatever you call itYay! it is now FIXED!
Put a new ABS Sensor in (didn't even have to remove the wheel), I just scooted under the vehicle on my back.
I don't expect it to last too long as the new one had the rubber positioning grommets in the wrong placed on the lead; and they didn't like being moved.
Volts reported at stationary are 2.25v (all the others are 2.33v).
Cleared all the faults with my Nanocom and she's all sorted.
A little test drive to the petrol station & back for a fill-up.
Job-Jobbed.
- Posts
- 17,908
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
Sorry to hear that. Has it all got corroded in there and the teeth on the ring are all gnarly and the gaps have got bridged?
- Posts
- 37,657
- Location
- North Shropshire
I don't know.. seems like there's no easy way to check the teeth.. only see an issue at <1mph
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
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- 14,833
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- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Sensor out and turn the wheel. Screwdriver to scrape every turn then blow out with air hose. Nuisance job
- Posts
- 37,657
- Location
- North Shropshire
+1 on that with sensor that wont come out
Flossie
Well-Known Member
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- 11,373
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- Shropshire
I mentioned that about the rubbers being in the wrong place on my 'Duchess is in the garage' Fred.Yay! it is now FIXED!
Put a new ABS Sensor in (didn't even have to remove the wheel), I just scooted under the vehicle on my back.
I don't expect it to last too long as the new one had the rubber positioning grommets in the wrong placed on the lead; and they didn't like being moved.
Volts reported at stationary are 2.25v (all the others are 2.33v).
Cleared all the faults with my Nanocom and she's all sorted.
A little test drive to the petrol station & back for a fill-up.
Job-Jobbed.
They will move with some effort, bit of glue there ,break the bond and they will slide along.
- Posts
- 17,908
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
I wiped a bit of copper-ease on the sidewall of the new sensor to try and make it easier next time. But I was very careful to keep it off the sensor face.+1 on that with sensor that wont come out
- Posts
- 37,657
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- North Shropshire
i'll do that when i get the old one out.. i'm crap at things like that.. can't get good enough purchase with a lever.. mole grips will just squish it.. i'm not taking the hub off because I dont have the ability to put it back onI wiped a bit of copper-ease on the sidewall of the new sensor to try and make it easier next time. But I was very careful to keep it off the sensor face.
i keep soaking it but no effect
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 46,320
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- Near Poitiers SW France
Had to chisel one of the sensors out on mine and knackered the reluctor ring in the process, so new CV joint fitted, not expensive and not difficult.i'll do that when i get the old one out.. i'm crap at things like that.. can't get good enough purchase with a lever.. mole grips will just squish it.. i'm not taking the hub off because I dont have the ability to put it back on
Honing the rust out of the sensor mounting bush was the biggest problem, there was no way the new sensor would go in the hole it was that bad.
The rubber grommets just need a good tug and they move.
- Posts
- 17,908
- Location
- Benfleet, Essex
On the basis that it is "phucked" anyway I would just stab it through with a sharp file tang or similar and lever the bugger out.i'll do that when i get the old one out.. i'm crap at things like that.. can't get good enough purchase with a lever.. mole grips will just squish it.. i'm not taking the hub off because I dont have the ability to put it back on
If it breaks up, then wind all the bits inwards like a tube and keep pulling it outwards. The copper basket sleeves are sacrificial and you should get a new one with the new sensor.
I had to do that on my first changeout.
