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I'll keep trying then - thanks folks

Been trying to find out status of a refund on a failed part for several weeks (and they've had the returned part for nigh-on 2 months now), but it's like nobody is home - phone rings and rings, no reply to emails. Anyone else having "problems"? Surprised because I've ordered plenty from Island...

Bolts might not be why it's leaking anyway. Have you checked the flange on the drain pipe is still flat? They are known to warp, and will lead you a merry dance with multiple new gaskets and/or RTV attempts, and the like. Old thread on the topic here...

Replaced my pipe, no particular problems at the bottom end assuming you can lay hands on crows foot spanner or similar. Old thread on same topic: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/turbo-oil-drain-pipe-leak.318732

Has the ATF level in the gearbox been double-checked? (Correct procedure is to do it with the engine running)

Drop links ... don't know about back ones, but I spent a fun few weeks chasing a front clunk that turned out to be the shank at the bottom of the link moving around in its hole on the axle. Either the cheapo aftermarket links I tried first were too small for the hole or they couldn't take the...

Bilge pump for the sunroofs? :p

check (or just change) the oil pump bolt get on top of any coolant leaks ASAP - a dry head is a fried head get on top of any oil leaks too - engine mounts degrade quickly if saturated with oil, not too clever for starter and alternator either PAS lines can go horrifically rusty where they pass...

Friend who runs a garage once told me it's not uncommon for this to happen after bleeding the brakes *if* you used the full pedal stroke when you bleed. Reason: rubber from the seals will gradually deposit inside the master cylinder with use, and will scrape to the extents of normal use over...

Well if it comes to court, I'm going to claim it was one iteration of linear interpolation, and no bugger will get me tosay any different ;)

Done this in me head whilst driving - 40mph ->78.4% of 100^3 50mph -> 112.5% of 100^3 Answer must be about 2/3 between the two unless we're in an "unlucky" part of the cubic. That's all I done, honest!

I make it 47mph, or thereabouts

Reasonable to assume: physics of this problem will be vastly dominated by turbulent aerodynamics -> resisting force based on square of "air speed" we're aiming for same total power output in both situations work rate is resisting force times "ground speed" So if x is the answer you're looking...

There's a pair of steel PAS pipes that run through there to the box, from the other side of the vehicle. Pipe run is under the rad/cooler group, along the top of the chassis crossmember. Mine were very corroded when I changed them a couple of years back.

I get 25 trundling around on local runs, 27 or more on a longer cruise (measured tank to tank). Climate control in economy mode does make a difference

Which bit? Looking in "ENGINE - Td5" section in RAVE, all I see is ...

Haven't done it yet. Got side-tracked by service and running all-new brake lines

Is it me, or is that pump housing cracked?

Make sure the oil pump bolt has been done. If you can't find out one way or another, get it done yourself as soon as you can - seems they can let go at any mileage.

Are either or both the existing mounts covered in oil from leaks? Constant exposure to oil will *really* shorten their life. Some rubbers are oil resistant, but seemingly these are not - they'll soften and collapse pretty quickly. So definitely worth fixing any oil leaks if you don't want to be...