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for the middle row there is a no barrel lock option for the anti burst locks. or you can drill a hole and fit the above as they should fit fine. but you could then need a 6 barrel setup to go with it unless your happy with having loads of keys. https://www.sp-4x4.com/product_p/345434.htm...

the cheapy sets off amazon will get you by but they will crack and get chewed up after a few uses. you could make your own if using wood/plank i would add few battons on the underside to dig in for grip and to feather an edge for the tyre to get up easier. you can then add grip tape or route...

I have seen the mud sheld on the stub axel put on the wrong way and do what your describing. worth checking.

10 PSI is the lowest you can go with out tyre damage (for short soft/sand runs) but then you will need to air back up once on firm ground. best thing for sand is to have maxtraxx or similar recovery board and drive out if your stuck.

if your sure the core is ok and replaced what you can. if its gear driven have the gears worn down and reduced your output more so than the core being the issue? how are you bench testing it and getting it upto speed needed to test the output? https://www.alternatorsnorthwest.com/ will test...

Depends on the finish your happy to live with. rebuilding the tub on the new chassis with the c post in place would give you the ability to get everything spot on but cost will probably be 1/2 a day on change over and you may have issues with your paint work from fitting/drilling. you only...

Ah if your rebuilding the tub fully first then moving you will be fine on the crossmember side. But you will want to be careful on a few points as YRM work to land Rover tollerances. the C pillar is a right pain in the arse on a CSW as there are 3 bits that come together between the mid...

Will dig them out and send you pics - I am based in Norfolk you can just have the CSW sides/bits I have.

not sure these are for D1 but my defender has them now but not shown in the above manual but maybe worth installing to protect the swivel ball housing. https://maltings4x4store.co.uk/swivel-balls/allmakes-4x4-defender-lock-stop-bracket-tau100170/

I have my old CSW side panels that i took off my 96 CSW that still have the seatbelts attached and think I may have the rear quaters somewhere in the yard. if any use to you?

Ah fair enough 👍 fair enough, I went OTT on mine was new tub/galv cappings which i then raptor coated before sticking it all together apart from the rivets it should be well isolated.

i editied my above reply with the extra info.

yes, these are the parts you need. you shouldnt need to remove the tub to repair, just cut out the old floor these should have tabs that slide into each wheel well and you can rivet into place. there are some bolts for the seats that go through the front that go to the mid crossmember in front...

Dont know if this will help but I put the tap on the top/side lip of the tub and filled my capping with tiger seal - i didnt want any air gaps inside where it could condensate. But is OTT. you also need tape/isolator on the inside on the tub where the capping support gets riveted through the...

Sorry been away. They do make up part of the rear seatbelt anchor points LR have them down as spacer blocks/nut plate. i understood they provide extra support for the c pillar/tub so kept them on mine (Mine is now a USW - no rear seats) found the link for them...

Mine is 1996 but should be same for yours.

here is the photo of mine they sit between the c pillar on left side ( you can see the hole you will have for the nut plate of the striker) and the Tub Right side. There is a plate behind both the c pillar and side of the tub as well. Not sure on part numbers.

If you put your hazards on you should be able to hear/feel a click if they are working and that will be your relay your looking for normally sits behind fuses but the clicking should give it away if elsewhere. if your hazards are working the relay may not be the issue it could be the indicator...

Ah fair enough - not sure what paint your using but the raptor epoxy primer is good but mine is all raptor. you can just bolt through with normal nut/washer just its a PITA these help with fitting On the floor of the CSW tub you will have where the rear seatbelts bolt through the floor to the...

land Rover was inconsistant in how they registered Defenders - Some were "cars" and others were "vans/light goods" nearly all the way along. Defender 110 CSW should go though as class 4 as dual purpose vehical. mines gone through as class 4 all its life 1996 110 CSW and even now as a USW...