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I had a persistent water leak on my D2 TD5. Tried adding UV dye, no traces. It was pretty random, sometimes used 1 litre in a matter of days. I knew the head and gasket were ok. Finally, I changed the water pump. Leak stopped. I never did find anything obvious. The pump wasn't worn, even after...

Do you have the correct size locking pin? You may need to rotate the engine back n forth slightly before the pin locates. I'm pretty sure when I did the head swap that I didn't bother locking the flywheel, but maybe that's just my memory!

Check for fuel leaks and corrosion of the chassis rails around the fuel tank.

Thought I'd chip in with my experience. I had an intermittent water loss on my TD5, I was in the habit of checking water and oil levels every few days. No water in the oil, no obvious leaks, sometimes it didn't need topping up for weeks, other times it was every few days. I tried using the U.V...

Positive online reviews are really meaningless. Only trust feedback from club members, groups etc. My Dad bought a car from a local dealer with great online reviews, the car was full of dangerous faults. When I later looked online, it was clear all the positive reviews from their mates/family.

Compression test, then based on results, replace the head gasket. Has it only done 167k miles? I did my rebuild at around 200k miles and the bores had no wear at all, checked the bores with a micrometer. After cleaning the pistons and rings, I reused everything, except No.1 which had the melted...

Just a quick note to add to my comment, my engine did another 20,000 miles after the head change with no issues. I did read somewhere that it's possible to "refill" the hydraulic tappets, but I doubt it.

+1 for Turners Everything I got from them was good. Try calling them, they are very helpful.

Mine made a similar "knocking" noise after I did my head swap. I kept the hydraulic tappets in order BUT I forgot to keep them upright (the book says to keep them upright) I had them in bags. It started tapping as soon as it started and pretty much did from then on. Didn't affect the...

That's why I don't trust my memory! LOL, I even looked for that page but didn't look hard enough!

Around 18mm from memory, I've got an old one I can measure but it's in a different country at the moment!

Can you get a rough idea of the diameter of the inside of parts, if they formed a complete part? It would help to see what diameter part fitted through it.

Definitely worth dropping the sump asap! The edges of the parts look worn so they may have been rattling around the sump for a while!

Hi, just seen I've been tagged into this! Been a while since my last login. Are the parts alloy or steel/iron? I've looked through my pics, can't see anything similar. If they are aluminium, they could be from a piston.

Had a similar issue with mine. Turned out to be a faulty injector. Have you had any work done on it recently? Idle was fine on my too.

I had a coolant loss issue on my 2004 D2 TD5. I got in the habit of checking the level daily! Some days it hadn't lost anything, other days it would need topping up. It was very random in its leakage! No evidence of leaks anywhere, I even used a UV trace and could only see a few spots around...

Just popped on the forum to close this one off! I looked at the car, it was a dog, no, a dog with fleas, as Gordon Gekko would say! The body was rusty, holes everywhere. Sunroof had been left open, it was soaked inside! I started stripping the engine down just because I was there anyway. When I...

Edit to my post above Pulling off the plug to each injector probably won't help, if an injector is faulty it may be "stuck" open, so its always leaking fuel into the cylinder, hence the white smoke.

Thanks, he's said its "not too rusty"! But I follow Soup Classic Motoring channel on YouTube, so I expect it to be worse than expected!

Good point! Ill pull the plugs anyway to do the compression test.