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I did mine over the Summer. I used some cheese wire to remove the forward, fixed glass from the old frames. Before drilling holes or using any goo, I did a dry run with some plastic packing pieces to simulate the thickness of the glue line on the fixed screen. I found that I needed to make...

Yes, it's quite reasonable - thankfully, the cap, rotor, and leads aren't particularly expensive.

In that case, it's well worth making sure the contact faces are clean, and the gap is correct. This will also give you an opportunity to check the inside of the distributor cap for tracking marks, the carbon brush in the centre of the cap, and the condition of the rotor arm.

Does your distributor have points inside, or, has it been converted to electronic?

As long as the damper is secure, and has some rebound travel, then, I think you'll notice a considerable improvement in ride quality. There isn't need for much rebound travel from the static unladen position, because you need most of the travel to allow for loading the vehicle up and then some...

I had exactly the same problem with my 109, although it runs on parabolic springs. I used some pro-comp dampers [link below] to allow the suspension some rebound travel. I also used some balata belting to make up some longer axle straps, although I don't think they are strictly necessary...

Even on Series 3, fasteners on the gearbox and transfer box tend to be old British threads, so, 3/16" W

Has the dynamo been polarised? The dynamo relies upon having some residual magnetism to start - if that residual magnetism is incorrectly polarised, the dynamo will not act as a generator of electricity. Some useful links explaining the operation of the dynamo and control box may be found in...

Are you checking continuity while the circuit / terminals are live? If so, you'll get misleading results. Checking resistance or continuity is fine when you've got a disconnected/dead wiring loom and you want to identify which wires connect to which, or, if you've a sensor like a fuel level...

Some thoughts, ... I'm a bit confused [usually!], but, did you say pre-engaged starter motor? It would be more usual to find an inertia starter motor on a petrol engine. If you have fitted a pre-engaged replacement, have you modified the wiring? Mechanically, does the pre-engaged starter...

It's always worth spending a minute or two counting the number of teeth on the pinion when changing starter motors. A starter motor with one tooth difference may work, for a while...

I have recently fitted new Mintex shoes on the front of my 109. They fitted well. The only problem I have is they grab a bit on the first brake application after a cold / damp night. I suppose heeling and toeing the shoes would reduce this, but, I can deal with it by dragging the brakes a bit...

I know it's not mechanically serious, but, the noise is really getting on my wick - the switch markers on the right hand side of the plastic dash panel rattle around at certain engine speeds. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you deal with it? I'm thinking of a small blob of...

Following the part No 79216 from the optional part catalogue leads to SE808244 which is available from the usual suppliers https://www.landroverworkshop.com/parts/SE808244

I think the mention of bulkhead mounted voltage stabilisers perhaps was thinking about the regulator box for dynamo charging systems on older Land Rovers. The voltage stabiliser for the instruments is a different device, and is generally mounted directly on the back of the instruments. It's...

I've roughly taken that into account - that's the 83% I was on about. The way I did this was to calculate the amount which needed to be removed from the head assuming the combustion chamber took up the full bore area, and then factoring up to meet the 100 thou quoted in the expedition web page...

Thank you for providing an independent check of my calculation/numbers - that's very helpful!

Having done some basic calcs, as I've been thinking about head skimming on my 109, for 7:1, the total clearance volume should be 95.2 cc, and for 8:1, 81.6cc. The total clearance volume should include any clearance between the top of the piston and the deck of the block at TDC, and the volume...

1000 apologies if this doesn't apply in your case, but, again and again, I've seen steering boxes over-tightened **. As an example, my 109 didn't steer well when I bought it, and backing off the steering box adjustment to a sensible compromise between play and tightness made a big improvement...

For the sediment, it may be worth checking the mesh screens on the tank pick up pipe and in the fuel lift pump as well as the small filter on the carb inlet which you've cleaned out. For the popping on over-run, it's worth checking the exhaust for leaks - also, perhaps, check the exhaust...